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Stainless bell housing bolts

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Javelin69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stainless bell housing bolts
    Posted: May/27/2016 at 11:27pm
Several years ago when I had my engine redone I replaced the bellhousing bolts with grade 8 from the hardware store. I discovered the bolts needed to be non standard hardware lengths so I cut them to length. Since I've been chasing a clutch disengagement issue so to rule out the possibility that one or more might not be allowing the bellhousing to fully tighten, I decided to order replacements from an AMC vendor. When I asked about the bolt grade he told me that he sold stainless ones. When I asked about the strength vs OEM he quipped that he's never had a complaint. I went ahead and for about $25 plus shipping ordered them. When they arrived, I tried to reference the head marking to strength grade. The results were kind of unclear but it seems that stainless would be between grade 2 and 5, although I'm not sure where exactly. Now I'm having second thoughts about their strength. This is not a 10 sec drag car, just a warmed up 390. Any thoughts?


Edited by Javelin69 - May/28/2016 at 10:03am
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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2016 at 3:24pm
bolt strength required depends on the force/load applied. there's not a lot of force on bellhousing bolts. they're out at a large radius, plus there's a number of them, plus dowels, so the rotational force that would put sheer force on them is small, and distributed over all the bolts. likewise the clamping forces.

the two biggies with the long shoulders that do the precise bell::engine location are often not ordinary fasteners, sometimes simply a small head or something, with the long non-threaded shank that is the locating "dowel".

but mainly you want graded bolts, and not fasteners suitable for fences, so that you can even quality and even torque and controlled stretch, etc. they're not doing a lot of work, but they are in a critical position, and we don't exactly maintain them on a regular basis. 

there's some fallacies around grade 8 fasteners being brittle but it's essentially wrongheaded; grade 8 is always good, but OEMs use lower cost grade 5 where adequate because of significant cost difference in quantity. us backyard folks buying 10 bolts can afford an extra buck (and we don't run personal QA programs on our builds, just high-quality rule of thumb).

here's an example discussion about graded fasteners: http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/ 
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Javelin69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2016 at 6:27pm
Good point you bring up about the shank maybe being important in the alignment. I'm feeling since I'm doing this to rule it out as a cause of my problem I should try to obtain OEM bolts. It looks like from the parts CD I've got different years are different length. It looks like I've got the correct length anyway. But being off shore non original parts the shank dimentions might be wrong.

I was surprised when I checked that stainless bolts aren't a better grade. Seems to be a common misconception. I wonder why when I've tried to work with it in the past it seems so hard.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/28/2016 at 7:30pm
stainless's main feetch is that it doesn't rust. that's about all they're good for. and that's assuming it's of a good stainless alloy, there are many, and many are krap. 

often bolts are reusable, but washers rarely are, and of those, mostly hardened flat washers or specials. i now stock in my shop nuts, washers, split locks, grade 5 and grade 8, in all sizes 1/4 to 1/2. a box at a time of each. boxes of 100 are surprisingly cheap. and it's not a luxury to be able to disassemble, scrap the washers and often the nuts, and use good new hardware.

i've developed the habit of maintaining two "junk boxes" of hardware -- standard stuff and Rambler. the only thing that goes into either are clean, WASHED, inspected parts. zero grease or oil. all used washers except specials are scrap metal. it costs almost nothing. the Rambler stuff is mostly all that weird chassis, body and interior stuff, clips and all that. if they're greasy and dirty i can't inspect 'em, think i have one, then find out it's bad when i go to use it, then i'm tempted to install a bad fastener, because laziness tempts me. washed and scrapped at disassembly, that never happens! i never save any stressed bolt, eg. head bolts. i've taken to buying new, and for heads, ARP. they're not even that pricey.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2016 at 8:07am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

...the two biggies with the long shoulders that do the precise bell::engine location are often not ordinary fasteners, sometimes simply a small head or something, with the long non-threaded shank that is the locating "dowel"....


This isn't correct.  The two bell dowels locate the bell with respect to the block.  The only fastener that I've ever seen that uses the shank for alignment is a pressure plate bolt.  I'm neglecting shoulder bolts as they are a special case.  As to stainless bolt identification, that isn't as straightforward as carbon steel.  There is considerable information available on that topic, this being just one.  http://www.atlanticfasteners.com/tech-tips/stainless-steel-hex-cap-screw-markings/
Roger Gazur
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1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2016 at 8:28am
The large bolts with the shank stepped down to smaller threads for locating the bell to the block or maybe also the starter were at least common in the older years. I remember my 64 with the 196 used them.

Stainless steel fasteners have their place like on a sail boat or in other corrosive environments. It is good to use an anti-sieze on the threads of stainless to stainless or the threads may lock together, quite often while attempting to remove them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2016 at 8:59am
Originally posted by vinny vinny wrote:

The large bolts with the shank stepped down to smaller threads for locating the bell to the block or maybe also the starter were at least common in the older years. I remember my 64 with the 196 used them....


I stand corrected.  I was not aware of the earlier applications.
Roger Gazur
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1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1948kaiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/29/2016 at 1:13pm
try www.totallystainless.com they have a bolt kit for amc v8 bell housings
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2016 at 4:15pm
Just a note on the above post that grade 8 is always better then grade 5.  This is true in almost all vehicle applications except the exhaust.  Grade 8 alloys will harden and may snap off through high thermal cycling temperatures of an exhaust manifold or headers.  In this location grade 5 or stainless are a better option.  I personally like stainless on exhaust.  And yes some have used grade 8 on exhaust and never have had problems.  The link below is promotional but also informative.
http://hillco-fastener-warehouse.blogspot.ca/2011/05/choosing-right-fastener.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2016 at 12:32am
Studebaker used steel studs with brass nuts on exhausts. the brass nuts reliably stripped out and you'd just toss them every time.

i had stainless on a Hornet. worked great. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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