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No brake lights!

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Lexstang View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/05/2016 at 3:34pm
Well I found out I have no brake lights on my 63 classic wagon. Traced it to the pressure switch on the master cylinder. I thought easy cheap fix, throw a new one in. I did, but it didn't fix it. How would the pressure switch not function? I have what sure seems like good brakes. The will lock up if I press hard enough. Any suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/05/2016 at 3:40pm
I think you may have to look at the ground at the brake pedal switch, or the fuse panel if your year has power from a fuse for brakes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/05/2016 at 4:08pm
Put a jumper across the 2 wires to the break light switch and see if you have brake lights.
If no lights look elsewhere. Try the TSM for wire diagrams.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocklandrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2016 at 2:04am
If your directional signals work OK then the 9a. STOP-TURN SIGNAL fuse is good. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. There are a lot of forum members who have had problems with the pressure switches. Luckily I've not been one of them. As Nickleone suggested try shorting the wires to see.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2016 at 6:32am
Try the test nickelone suggested first. If the brake lights work then (switch has to be on) it's the pressure switch. Sometimes the hole in the MC gets clogged and won't allow pressure to the switch. The replacement switches are usually junk for a daily driver. Typically lasts six months or so, which might equate to 5-10 years in a show/hobby car. I averaged 5000-7000 miles a year on my daily driver, so 2500-3500 miles... may last longer with occasional use though.

Easy to replace with a momentary switch on the brake pedal. You want a push-off (normally closed, or NC) switch. Mount under the dash so the brake pedal pushes the switch in when it's up, and the switch comes out as the pedal is pushed. That's the best way, but you can use a NO (normally open -- push-on) switch at the bottom. Has to e a long travel switch with some flex in the mount though, as travel changes with brake wear, fluid level, or if the brakes fail... not so sure you'd be concerned about brake lights with the last one though.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lexstang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/06/2016 at 7:09am
Jumping the wires is why I replaced switch. I do have brake lights with it jumped. How big is the passage that might be clogged to the switch? Any idea how much pressure activates it? Perhaps I can figure out a way to test the new switch. I appreciate the suggestion of the pedal switch.
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