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No brake lights! |
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Lexstang
AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/29/2014 Location: Lexington ky Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Posted: May/05/2016 at 3:34pm |
Well I found out I have no brake lights on my 63 classic wagon. Traced it to the pressure switch on the master cylinder. I thought easy cheap fix, throw a new one in. I did, but it didn't fix it. How would the pressure switch not function? I have what sure seems like good brakes. The will lock up if I press hard enough. Any suggestions?
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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I think you may have to look at the ground at the brake pedal switch, or the fuse panel if your year has power from a fuse for brakes.
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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nickleone
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/04/2008 Location: westminster co Status: Offline Points: 1441 |
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Put a jumper across the 2 wires to the break light switch and see if you have brake lights.
If no lights look elsewhere. Try the TSM for wire diagrams. Nick |
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nick
401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold 390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold 1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes |
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rocklandrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: Nanuet, NY Status: Offline Points: 3953 |
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If your directional signals work OK then the 9a. STOP-TURN SIGNAL fuse is good. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. There are a lot of forum members who have had problems with the pressure switches. Luckily I've not been one of them. As Nickleone suggested try shorting the wires to see.
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Past AMC's
1974 Hornet X (new) 1975 Gremlin X (new) 1964 Classic 660 Cross Country 1965 American 440-H |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Try the test nickelone suggested first. If the brake lights work then (switch has to be on) it's the pressure switch. Sometimes the hole in the MC gets clogged and won't allow pressure to the switch. The replacement switches are usually junk for a daily driver. Typically lasts six months or so, which might equate to 5-10 years in a show/hobby car. I averaged 5000-7000 miles a year on my daily driver, so 2500-3500 miles... may last longer with occasional use though.
Easy to replace with a momentary switch on the brake pedal. You want a push-off (normally closed, or NC) switch. Mount under the dash so the brake pedal pushes the switch in when it's up, and the switch comes out as the pedal is pushed. That's the best way, but you can use a NO (normally open -- push-on) switch at the bottom. Has to e a long travel switch with some flex in the mount though, as travel changes with brake wear, fluid level, or if the brakes fail... not so sure you'd be concerned about brake lights with the last one though. |
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Frank Swygert
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Lexstang
AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/29/2014 Location: Lexington ky Status: Offline Points: 104 |
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Jumping the wires is why I replaced switch. I do have brake lights with it jumped. How big is the passage that might be clogged to the switch? Any idea how much pressure activates it? Perhaps I can figure out a way to test the new switch. I appreciate the suggestion of the pedal switch.
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