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1959 rambler six clutch adjustment |
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lucy59
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/03/2015 Location: Nanaimo BC Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: Apr/21/2016 at 9:19pm |
I was hoping someone would know how to adjust the clutch pedal so the transmission disengages higher than when the pedal is on the floor?
it appears the clutch is still engaged a bit when the pedal is pressed to the floor. the transmission would appear to be still turning when trying to down shift from 2nd to 1st unless I stop the engine then I can shift into 1st with no issue. when the engine is stopped I can shift through all gears, no problem
1959 rambler super six manual 3 speed on the column. |
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7539 |
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hmm.... on that particular clutch it's usually just the opposite -- super sloft clutch tat disengages when the pedal is pressed only a couple of inches.
almost certainly the problem is the flexible thing that supports the clutch linkage on the engine side. Galvins sells one. its a PITA to replace, being situated in the tangle of clutch exhaust starter and parking brake, plus caked in 50+ years of crud. and when you're in there you will probably want to clean and lube everything. you should have a factory Technical Service Manual for this. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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lucy59
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/03/2015 Location: Nanaimo BC Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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thanks for the advice. the books ( technical service manual for 1958 and the supplement for 1959 ) I have do not mention anywhere about adjusting the clutch pedal however.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675 |
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Probably because it was considered "common knowledge" for mechanics back then. Most cars had manual trannys, which are hard to find now (impossible in many cars). The adjustment is simple -- the length of the rod between the clutch fork and the rest of the linkage is adjustable in length. That's about it! Lengthening the rod brings the pedal/disengagement up... IIRC.
As Tom said though, check that flexible link on the motor! Bolts to bell housing where it meets the block, and holds the pivot bearing on that end of the Z bar. It's made out of something that resembles the sidewall of a tire, or a thick rubber belt material. That reduces vibration in the clutch pedal/linkage. It stretches with age and deterioration, and eventually you run out of adjustment. There is a danger of it breaking, but not much with the stock rod. I knew someone who just got a longer rod instead of fixing the flexible linkage. It tore, but the linkage started binding a bit requiring more pressure first. I've seen a piece made with layers of thin stainless steel so it will flex some (it has to flex a little due to engine movement). It's not a bad design -- it's 50+ years old!! I tried using a piece cut from an old tire sidewall. Drilled the rivets out and replaced with bolts. It only lasted a few months before stretching. A tough industrial/farm belt material (wide belt, not a fan belt... though a couple strips from a serp or timing belt might work) would be better. Tire rubber breaks down with age, and the tire I used was old to begin with. Wasn't about to cut a new tire! |
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Frank Swygert
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lucy59
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/03/2015 Location: Nanaimo BC Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Thanks to all for your help. we have made adjustments to the rod that pushes on the clutch fork and have been able to get enough of a pedal rise that has fixed my issue. as for the rubber link it has worn well over the years and is still in great shape. must have been the 50+ years of crud and oil that has preserved it.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19675 |
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The link DOES stretch over time -- probably what caused your adjustment issue in the first place. The only way I can think of to really assess the rubber link condition easily is to look at the Z-bar (the bar that goes between rubber link and "frame" rail, connects adjuster rod to clutch pedal). It should be close to parallel with the friewall, almost perpendicular to the "frame" rail. I'm sure it's stretched some, but as long as it's hanging in there you should be fine.
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Frank Swygert
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lucy59
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/03/2015 Location: Nanaimo BC Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Well issue has been corrected. We can now shift up or down with no grinding noises. Thanks for everyone's help.
Happy Rambling all
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