Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
New Brake system |
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Author | |
RamblinMan63
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/19/2016 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks to all of you.
So the mc is already mounded on my car. When will the brake pedal start to return? It just goes down I just picked up some hoses, and I'm going to bleed the mc |
|
sweatlock
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/28/2014 Location: Largo, FL Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Not a bad idea on a completely brand-new sytem, but on an existing system my concern would be that any rusty nasty crap coming out of the wheel cylinder/caliper goes straight back into your master cylinder. Not good. Even on a brand-new system I'm not sure I'd want to do it. I always used a glass jar with some clean fluid in it to run a short hose into from either a wheel cylinder or caliper - that way you can see the bubbles and re-use the jar. If it has a lid, even better to put on it to keep stuff out for the next time. Whatever's in that jar after bleeding the brakes, dispose of responsibly since it won't be pretty on an existing system. I bought a tool for bleeding brakes, ended up throwing it away - didn't want to give it away since it worked so poorly. Thought about getting & installing the one-way bleeder valves, but they seem gimmicky to me. In my opinion, I think the two-man operation is the best method. Edited by sweatlock - Apr/11/2016 at 3:13pm |
|
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
i use a "mightyvac" type vacuum bleeder. i've never tried the gravity method. works pretty well doing it myself. on old systems, i use it to pre-vacuum both front and rear resevoirs of old fluid and refill them with clean, instead of dragging it all through the system.
bench bleeding new masters is absolutely necessary. no way to skip that step. and i find it always takes far, far mor etime to get every single tiny bubble out, like 15 minutes of pumping. i have a large (14" long #2) phillips screwdriver that works great -- the master in a bench vise, screwdriver handle stuck on my hip bone and pres press press press press.... slow so it doesn't squirt up in the air and make a mess. i dont know why it always takes me 10X longer than everyone else does. in the car, i top off the master cyl then set the cover on to stop that up-squirt. the usual start with the furthest-from-the-master, etc. i find the most difficult part is keeping the hose on the bleeder nipple and holding the plastic reservoir on the mightyvac upright all at the same time. PITA! it sucks air at the bleeder, but i just go by level in the pump's reservoir level. a number of times i've had to bleed the entire system twice to get the pedal perfectly firm. usually on new or disassembled systems. i've run disc/drum, recently drum/drum (modded drums, on my roadster) and i'm about to switch to disc/disc since i'm putting a '98 axle in the roadster and will switch back to scarebird fronts. so i get to bleed 'em all over again... |
|
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
|
RamblinMan63
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/19/2016 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok
So I bled the mc on the car by running clear vinyl tubbing back intobthe resevoir. I also let all the bleader nipples open till fluid started dripping out. My biggest question is that the pedal doesn't really come back up at all. Is there an external return spring I need? Or will it start coming up when pressure starts building up? |
|
farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
When you start bleeding the brakes the old fashioned way (one at a time) the pedal should start to come back up. The gravity bleed works to get most of the air out of a dry system, but I always do a quick "normal" bleed also. If you don't have a helper get a length of tubing that fits the bleeder valve and run it into a container with brake fluid or water. The end of the tube must be submerged at all times to prevent air from being sucked back in. A little fluid will suck up the hose, but not enough to get any back into the wheel cylinder. That's why you can use water.
|
|
Frank Swygert
|
|
RamblinMan63
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/19/2016 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thank you
So far pedal no longer will go all the way to the floor and is starting to come up a bit. |
|
RamblinMan63
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/19/2016 Location: California Status: Offline Points: 195 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Update: I drove up and down my driveway! Its stopping is sorta jerky but its stopping and coming up!
|
|
farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Probably just need to get the shoes broke in and adjusted. If you have auto adjusters they only work when backing up, so drive forward and back a few times if they are close.
|
|
Frank Swygert
|
|
Post Reply | Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |