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Torque link - Anti-sway bar conflict |
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7172AMX
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/20/2015 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Posted: Mar/21/2016 at 6:40pm |
Hello,
Thanks to some helpful Torque-link photos found here [thanks Bill!], i'm now concerned about adding Torque-links where now resides an Addco 3/4 rear bar. Having just ditched my traction bars, I know little more than looking at photos about these devices, but it appears there can be clearance issues. My older 80's bar has straight sections leading to the link ends and looks to be a no-go just looking at where the link 'towers' mount atop the axle tube. However newer Addcos have an angle placed midway, forming an inward 'pinched' profile at either end. Would this be the purpose for the different profile, to clear the links? Also, is there a specific link length [inches] i need for 71 jav? Same as 70 AMX?? I imagine length must be correct for each vehicle application. much appreciated! Henry
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GoPacKman
71 JavAMX 401 T-10 354TG 72 JavSST 360 727 315TG 98 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0 4WD |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Generally, when using the factory torque links you don't need/use a sway bar. With the factory rubber bushings the links also function about the same as a sway bar, binding the suspension a bit and reducing lean. Might not be quite as effective as a large sway bar, but much better than a stock rear axle without the links. If your links have replacement urethane bushings they will not operate the same. The stock rubber bushings resist twisting, but do twist some, similar to a control arm bushing. Urethane bushings don't have that internal twisting resistance. They are just about like using a bronze bushing -- they just pivot. They do provide some shock resistance and vibration insulation, but not that much compared to rubber bushings (but better than solid aluminum or bronze bushings, plus they are slicker and don't need lubing as solid ones would).
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Frank Swygert
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Fluffy73
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/21/2007 Location: Castlegar, BC Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
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The TV show "Car & Track" did a review of a 1971 Javelin 401 back in the early 70's. In the segment, they mention "sway bars fore and aft with traction bars at each rear wheel".
I've always wondered.... were they in error, or did AMC supply the show with a ringer of a loaded Javelin with some non-production goodies? In the episode where they tested a '71 Gremlin, they mention the front suspension has leading struts. Minor error. Our cars have trailing strut rods. Mopars have leading struts. So, the show isn't 100% accurate. Still makes you wonder if AMC considered making a heck of a HD suspension option for the humpsters. I have a set of Torque Links now for my Humpster. I'm going to attempt to replicate this fabled suspension setup with either an ADDCo rear bar or something similar. |
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I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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prostreetamx
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/15/2007 Location: Las Vegas, NV Status: Offline Points: 1532 |
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My Humpster has a 4-link, rear disc brakes and a rear sway bar. You can create just about anything with a welder. Unfortunately the Hemi seems to have too much torque for some of the parts I got in the kit and keeps breaking the mounts. My next build will not be using stock rear frame rails. Javelins would use longer torque links than a 2 seat AMX or Gremlin due to a longer spring length. You can always swap in a Mercury Mountaineer 8.8 rear axle (the same as an Explorer unit) but the Mountaineer has upper torque link mounts for links or shocks. That axle has a rear bar like my Explorer unit in my Javelin.
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Richard Payne
Las Vegas,NV 72 5.7 Hemi Javelin 77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX, [/URL] |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Slide-a-link traction bars might be your best bet with the Hemi.
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Frank Swygert
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7172AMX
AMC Apprentice Joined: May/20/2015 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Thanks for all the replies. I dont think i'm much closer to knowing what i need to know however. Fluffy I'd be interested if u get any success w/t-links, particularly if your intended sway bar has an offset like the newer Addco I mentioned, but if the old C&T setup was w/traction bars there would be no issue since they are bottom mounted and the sway is on top. APD has the same P/N for 70 AMX and jav t-links [mistake?] A welded solution could solve possible t-link length issues [shorten/lengthen the bar]. I myself, would not consider t-links a comparable substitute for anti-sway even though they probably assist a bit, handling wise. I do wonder if they add noticeable stiffness, ride quality wise, since the leaf's deflection would be restricted forward of the rear axle. Slide-a-links which appear to be a an adjustable version of Caltracs could be the best working alternative, however pricey, and quite noticeable on an otherwise stock looking vehicle. Henry |
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GoPacKman
71 JavAMX 401 T-10 354TG 72 JavSST 360 727 315TG 98 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0 4WD |
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