Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
Early AMC I6/T5 adaptation |
Post Reply |
Author | ||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: Feb/07/2016 at 8:56pm |
|
I have a long write up, with pictures, and every time I go to post, it says "access denied". What gives????
Edited by 232jav3sp - Feb/07/2016 at 9:01pm |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
l
Edited by 232jav3sp - Feb/09/2016 at 7:23pm |
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Parts needed to adapt a T5 to an early AMC 6.
Moderndriveline trans adapter T5 trans from 3.8L V6 Mustang ('98 or '99 went to electronic speedo) Dorman 690-043 pilot bushing Ford T5 throw-out bearing Longer clutch fork pivot Clutch disc from '80s Ford 4cyl/T5 Mustang/T-Bird/Merc Capri Ford Racing slip yoke and conversion U-Joint Call MDL for the trans adapter. It cost me $180 shipped, came with new hardware to mount to the bellhousing, and new bolts to mount the trans to it. The T5 needs to come from a 3.8L Mustang for the longer input shaft needed to reach the pilot bushing. Get an early one so your mechanical speedo cable will work. My stock T14 cable fit perfectly. FYI, the Mustang speedo sender is electronic, but, driven mechanically by the trans. SO, don't get worried about seeing an electrical connector on the trans. Dorman 690-043 pilot bushing is needed for the OD of the T5 input shaft. Have only found them sold in packs of 5. I decided to use the stock Ford T5 throw-bearing. It has plenty of surface area to contact the Borg&Beck levers. Only problems are the bearing height is much shorter then the stock T14 throw-out bearing, and the clutch fork needs some very minor clearancing to slip into the T5 bearing fork groove (hard to see in picture, but I took material off the right side/front of fork), and to pivot on it smoothly. The bearing height issue is solved with getting, or making, a longer clutch fork pivot. I used a grade 8 bolt (forget the length, I THINK 2.25") and shaped the head into a ball using the bench grinder. I talked to MDL about a clutch kit for the swap, and, they quoted me a fairly large price to have a kit BUILT for the application. SOOOOO... I took to the internet to find something that would work. Turned out that the 4cyl/T5 combo from an '80s Ford Mustang/T-Bird or Mercury Capri uses a 9" clutch, and that is exactly what you need to use the stock Bork&Beck clutch. The disc I used is made by SACHS (PN, SD1228), I bought it from RockAuto, and it measured .020" thicker then the reconditioned T14 disc. I had the pressure plate rebuild and resurfaced, and had the flywheel resurfaced, too, and the petal pressure and action is as smooth as a hydraulic clutch. The SACHS disc is on the left. Summit sells the Ford Racing T5 slip yoke in the Mustang section. Is $50 if memory serves. You need a 1310/1330 conversion U-Joint, again, if memory serves. I'm almost certain that is correct, though. Of course, your driveshaft will have to be shortened. Now, as for the trans mount and crossmember, I decided to build my own crossmember to use the trans mount for an '02 Mustang w/auto trans. I had replaced one on a customer's car, and it looked like it would bolt to the T5. Low and behold, it did. Doing a little mockup, it looks like the stock crossmember will work by cutting out a notch/path in the center hump, and using '55 Chevy "donut" motor mounts. Again, it looked like it would work that way, but I didn't explore further. By making my own mount, I used all three mounting holes on both sides of the uni-body, whereas the factory only uses two on each side. My mount is a little crude (bender doesn't go down 1" dies). The only issue that you will have when installing this trans in a Javelin is the floor support rib. The shifter housing will hit it because the trans spacer moves it back an inch. The solution is to notch the rib in half and make a cut out for the shifter housing, then you have to cut a new hole in the floor (as expected). The only picture I have is before notching the rib. |
||
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
thanks so incredibly much for the fantastic documentation (and nice work on a nice car). thanks for this -- it reveals a lot and your solutions look great. i've saved it as a PDF.
|
||
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
||
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
i want to reiterate how useful this thread is. i'm going through this same process now, "early six", T5, TO bearing, clutch, etc. working out TO bearing details, have the trans etc. i will write up my details too once i get started on assembly.
this thread should be a sticky i agree.
|
||
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
||
tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7555 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
an alternative, that allows the use of the far more common 7" or is it 7.15" input shaft, is the "volcano adapter" sold by Galvin's AMC. it's meant to turna 195.6 flat butt crank into a volcano butt crank, but the major affect of that is to cause the pilot bushing to protrude .75" past the flat surface of the flywheel flange. however, it restricts you to a .625" diameter pilot bushing.
do yo recall what year and model for that part? there's a lot of variations, i can't figure out which is which...
|
||
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
||
InlineEric
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/10/2016 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 57 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Thank you very much for the write up... I plan on doing something similar, but it will be at least a year from now.
|
||
232jav3sp
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Tomj, I used the stock TO bearing that came with the '96 Mustang T5 trans. If you trim the width of the fork it will fit in the bearing's groove. After that it's all about making a longer pivot shaft for the fork.
|
||
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |