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What voltage goes to the intake nanifold heater? |
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raser13
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/11/2009 Location: st.louis,mo,usa Status: Offline Points: 1003 |
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Never thought of 555 timer. I used to use them all the time for my flashing model marker lights and strobes. But i've moved on to pograming arduinos for that now. But that would do even better. I can add an ambient air temperature sensor and have it kuck on only if the temp is below X.
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Lucas660
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/16/2012 Location: Vic, Australia Status: Offline Points: 1344 |
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There are plenty of off the shelf "single shot" timers that could be used for this application.
Are you sure you have the correct thermostat in the engine? That might be worth looking at also. |
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TheBirdman
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/25/2017 Location: Sioux Falls, SD Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Sorry for bumping this thread, but I wanted to let anyone who may be reading this thread for research know. After I swapped on my 2100, I was having this same problem this winter, and I suspect what was happening was that the intake manifold was too cold, until the coolant passage warmed it up, and the fuel in the air charge was condensing on the walls and floor of the manifold. I learned that my intake heater wasnt working, and I was going to run a toggle switch to the relay for it (square relay next to the battery on my 83 eagle), but after diving into it a little, I discovered that the relay had just been smashed, probably during the engine swap. I cleaned up the plug and slapped a new universal type relay on it, and it worked perfectly. Its still a little doggy coming off idle when its cold, but not bad enough to kill it anymore, and really what can you expect from a 35 year old carburated car? Anyways long story short, the intake heater helps A LOT in cold weather, so if your car is taking forever to warm up, make sure its working.
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1983 Eagle Wagon
4.0 from 93 cherokee AW4, NP242, and EFI from 99 cherokee |
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AMXRWB
AMC Addicted Joined: Apr/25/2013 Location: Midwest Status: Offline Points: 1154 |
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I wired one up full 12v with a switch and after a few trips it burned up.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Yeah, can't leave it on for long! After the coolant temp comes up it needs to be turned off. A temp switch should be in the circuit to cut power once temp is up. That will solve the problem of burning it up! A 165 degree switch would be nice. Just wire into the power side of the relay. Most of those switches are NO and close when temp hits the threshold, so might take another relay, but easy enough.
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Frank Swygert
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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The 258 intake is warmed by full 12 volts from a RELAY until the water temp reaches about 160 then a thermostatic switch in the intake OPENS and shuts down ground to the relay.
The relay gets coil power through the oil pressure switch so it isn't powered when the key is on and the engine not running. Once the coolant is 160 then the power is cut. Those are ceramic heaters and could burn out if left running 100% of the time plus you'd run it hotter than needed. More later - doctor appointment then tax appointment........ |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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oil pressure switch has three terminals. One is for the light - when there's no pressure it grounds and the light comes on. The other two are a NO SPST switch. That means normally open single pole/single throw.
There's power to one of those other two terminals. In many Eagles, etc. the other goes to electric choke. This ensures the choke doesn't heat unless the engine is running. In some cases - it also supplies power for the relay coil for the intake heater. Some are controlled via the engine's computer system and that's where it gets hairy and complex but with the early cars - perhaps changing after 82 or so - that terminal did the choke AND supplied power to the relay coil for the intake heater. The power for the intake heater itself comes from a fusible link wire to one side of the relay contacts and the other side of the relay contacts goes to the heater (again, depending, but this is in the simple version) Now the relay COIL in the simple version gets power from the oil pressure sending unit - but the other side of the coil is grounded via a normally CLOSED thermostatic switch in the intake. That senses coolant temperature and once the coolant flowing to and through the intake reached about 160 that thermostatic switch OPENS and breaks the ground for the relay coil, de-energizing the coil and causing the contacts to open, stopping power to the electric heater.
Pretty simple - unless the computer is involved which it is sometimes in some cars You can run this VERY VERY simply by taking power through the oil pressure sending unit to run the relay coil, and ideally using the thermostatic switch in the intake to ground the relay coil. Or you could manually do this.......... THe power itself for the heater comes from the starter relay//solenoid via fusible link. |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689 |
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Perfectly simple and effective -- an oil pressure switch and temp sensor! Note you can use separate switches. A T will work at the oil pressure switch, but temp switch needs to be where it is immersed in running water to be effective. You can get radiator hose inserts with a bung for a sensor (cut hose).
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Frank Swygert
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