Head gasket leak, advice needed.

One of my local machinist noticed the copper residue left on a head I took for him to mill.
He told me not to use copper spray, but wouldn't take the time to explain why not.

I'd been using copper spray for probably over 20 years, on personal engines, and every race engine I'd ever had apart. The only time I had a problem was when I got in a time bind, and installed a head that was out of tolerance just a bit on warp. It failed.

I didn't take his advice, and I've never had a blown head gasket other than the above mentioned problem.

I'm not a professional mechanic, but I've probably done about 40 head gaskets in those 20 years, about 3/4 of them for circle track race engines. Just one understandable failure in all those replacements tells me maybe i'm doing something right.

Knock on wood.

I had the same situation in a 360 I rebuilt. Took me forever to admit to myself it was a head gasket. Had all those symptoms, and there was a coolant leak along the head. I thought the leak was coming from a valve cover bolt hole that had to get drilled out, which got into the water jacket. Once I finally took the head off, there was an obvious defect in the HG in the area of the leak - I can't remember if it was cylinder 1 or 3, but it was near the head bolt between them. Have a new HG on it, but a wiring problem is preventing me from firing it up right now, so I can't tell you the results.

three years and 5000 miles on a Blue Devil fix here.

Just curious if they installed new seats in the heads. Just seams from what has been mentioned that it is a very small leak and depending on what heads you are running some have concerns after seat replacement. keep us posted on your findings, Very Curious.

so possible "good news" dropped off the passenger side header and just decided to take the torque wrench to the bolts under the plugs.  Set it to 70 and the bolt closest to the front of the car moved!!

so i checked all other bolts  none moved.  Increased the torque to 90 100 then 110 and in all cases only that 1 bolt moved. I'd say maybe a total of a 1/4 turn or more.  Maybe they forgot to tighten that bolt...    Going to check the other side probably tomorrow. im very happy i might not have to pull the heads after all...

Update:  I had read a simple test was to rev cold engine at startup to 2k and hold it there for about 20 sec, if there is a leak when you pull the red lever on the cap there will be pressure.

Today i did this for 40 sec,  when i pulled the lever up the little section of water i see trapped in the clear return hose barely moved 1/2 to 3/4 inch.  I,d say fine for the heat expansion of  the water.
When i did this same test before the re-torque of that bolt i got this nice cappuccino maker sound for a few sec.  

I drove the car around for 20 min or so and i don't ever think i saw the temp go over 195, and no bubbles when i got home. Also it looks like a lot less blow by coming from the filler cap.

I am remaining cautiously optimistic hopefully later ill take it out for a longer drive like 20 miles or so and then we will see if the rad cap starts venting bubbles again.


Edited by notinthemafia1 - Aug/04/2015 at 12:42pm