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emissions removal 78 258 concord |
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dartravens
AMC Fan Joined: Dec/10/2014 Location: tucson az Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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right 4.0s rare here lots of desert trails so the jeep guys get em all. im lucky my car has 70k original miles i have the original sales receipt for a place about 10 miles from me where it was sold .although this engine had a fram filter ... im not a fan of em either.
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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Emissions removal of a later 258 is pretty much the action taken to retrofit the thing to be about the equivalent configuration of a 1970 vintage engine.
It helps if you have some knowledge of what that should look like in order to accomplish it, and also some knowledge of what it is you are taking off so that you don't really screw things up to bad. The EGR is cast into the intake manifold and as long as it is not defective, simply unplugging the ported vacuum line to it will disable it. The air pump if your engine is equipped with one can be removed as can all of the plumbing and vacuum lines attached to anything in the plumbing. There are a number of temperature sensing devices depending on the year of the engine that direct both intake manifold and ported vacuum around for various engine management functions along with things like controlling idle speed through a solenoid attached to the carburetor which may also have an electrical connection attached to it. That device is how the idle rpm is controlled. Once removed, the idle rpm is controlled as it was in 1970 through an adjustment on the carburetor. The variation will depend in part whether there is A/C or not on the car. The air injection manifold can be removed if possible and pipe plugs can be installed to plug the holes (in some cases anyway) You want to keep the positive Crank Case Ventilation working and there is a line going back to the gas tank that is vented through the charcoal filter which I like to keep functioning which helps keep gasoline smells out of the cabin. The latest engine did not use air pumps so there are far more vacuum lines to disconnect. A vacuum line has two ends, remove the lines and either unscrew the temperature sending devices and replace with pipe plugs for a clean appearance or just leave it as they are with the lines removed. The only functioning vacuum line you need under the hood is a manifold vacuum line which will go directly to the distributor vacuum can. And any line that goes to vacuum operated cabin temperature controls.. That one will go into the cabin through either a round ball or something that looks like a small coffee can. It has a one way check valve in it that keeps the vents in the position selected when accelerating or climbing hills. And as some one pointed out, the mounting brackets for the air pump if equipped can be either removed or sectioned out. If you are doing a "Rat Rod" look which means ugly is o.k., than little care for cosmetics is o.k., but if you like it looking nice, take the time to do it that way. I have built two types of 258's that had full smog compatibility and ran increased compression, carburation and a cam and one where everything was cleaned up and looked nice. I like to use the late aluminum intake and exhaust system for modified engines if I can. But and the operative word is BUT! There is no one set of instructions to cover this modification, there were way too many variations of 258 Cu in engines configured for smog. You want to get close to a 1970 configuration and it helps if you know what that is in order to get there. I like my I-6 AMC engines and I want them to look nice when the hood is opened. There is an inexpensive chrome valve cover I use to dress them up with and some paint of what ever color you like to make them look nice with. This one is a 1974 232 that I bought to build to look like this. It is now waiting to find a home. It has an Iskenderian cam, an Offenhauser 4bbl carburetor intake, an Eagle exhaust manifold, a Carter 400CFM AFB, a Clifford Valve cover and a Delco Alternator, the ignition is OEM with BW heavy duty points and custom ignition wires. Sparkplugs are Champion RN9YC's which is about 3 heat ranges colder than OEM and a Fram filter. I throw that one in simply because I have used Fram filters for about 50 years now and have yet to have a failure with one, they are available anywhere easily and I currently have a Fram filter on all of my cars. Why do I mention it? Everyone makes a point of slamming the things, and frankly I don't think that is justified, but everyone is welcome to their own opinion. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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dartravens
AMC Fan Joined: Dec/10/2014 Location: tucson az Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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only issue ive had with frams is i had one disintegrate after 2k miles havnt used one since just had one bad insident
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dartravens
AMC Fan Joined: Dec/10/2014 Location: tucson az Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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deciding to sell it off complete sry man finances went to ruin if yah want for fun 500$ is what im asking for whole car
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pacerman
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060 |
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What is the car? model? year?
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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