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343 with Pertronix not firing |
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ccowx
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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I can not imagine why it would make any difference about the coil and resistance wire. The resistance rating on the FT II is the exact same as the stock coil, it is just a bit hotter unit. System resistance is identical to factory stock. That is all the FT II is really, just a slightly hotter OEM replacement coil. Many similar coils are marketed as a straight oem replacement. I don't mean to argue with the manufacturer, but that is reality.
Another reality is that I have done it with both points and a Pertronix I and had it work perfectly! Ignition systems seem to be as prone to ad hype as anything else. The Pertronix I is simply a points eliminator that does not have any magic properties beyond that. The -II and -III have additional features and much higher potential than the -I. They are true hi performance systems with other requirements to function. Kind of like you can not slap a tunnel ram on a stock engine, the whole thing has to be a system designed to work together. How is the battery situation? I hope that helps! Chris
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rocklandrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: Nanuet, NY Status: Offline Points: 3953 |
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Why don't you eliminate the battery as a source of the problem by replacing it? It's of unknown age and can't seem to hold a charge worth a damn.
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Past AMC's
1974 Hornet X (new) 1975 Gremlin X (new) 1964 Classic 660 Cross Country 1965 American 440-H |
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67 Marlin
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/21/2015 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 877 |
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I did; mentioned so a few posts back. Thing starts just fine now. Chris was addressing some coil and resistance wire considerations since I mentioned that I won't be using my Flamethrower coil (#40011) until I eliminate the resistance wire. |
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ccowx
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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This is the part where I kid myself that I know what I am talking about!
The story of resistance in a very general sense is this: Points systems in 60's V8's are generally designed to work with about 3 Ohms of resistance in the system. My 1970 Javelin has a 1.35 Ohm resistance wire in the harness(that is bypassed while starting) plus a 1.5 Ohm resistance coil. This gives 1.5 ohms resistance while starting and 2.85 in normal operation. The added resistance wire cuts the voltage down to roughly 9-10 volts. I don't have a 67 TSM, but I believe your setup is similar. The reason this is done is to prevent the overly hot spark from burning out your points too quickly. When you put in a Pertronix I system, the rest of it can remain the same, including a stock coil, and it will run fine. The module will work with a lower stock voltage, so the resistance wire can be left in place. However, since there are no longer any points to burn out, you can eliminate the resistance wire and get a slightly hotter spark. You will get a full 12 volts(really closer to 13) at the coil. The Flamethrower II coil is also a 1.5 Ohm resistance unit, exactly the same as a stock coil. Therefore the system is going to function identically. The only difference is that since a coil is basically a step up transformer, it will increase the voltage proportionately to what you feed it. Since the FT II is a slightly higher transformer, it will give slightly more voltage than the stock coil being fed the same voltage from the car. I guess I was in the mood for some ignition therapy myself! Chris
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tsanchez
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/09/2007 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 4303 |
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Make sure you have voltage at coil when cranking, sometimes there is none as it relies on the starter circuit to provide 12 volts during crank. I always run pertronix module at 12 volts and use the coil with original resistance or ballast or it has a hard time starting. I have installed and repaired many of these systems over the years
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