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Trunk pan replacement

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bluetick View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Trunk pan replacement
    Posted: Mar/28/2015 at 8:35am
My 1972 amx trunk pan is Swiss cheese .I found a 74 car with a good pan Now the question THE SWAP COST!!. After talking to a local shop about  cutting and reweld "time and materials "Ouch the body shop also talk about using body panel epoxy  for half the price ?? Well most of the new cars panels are
 epoxied ? What one will last longer  or is this even a good  idea   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2015 at 9:00am
The new cars do have a lot of the panels installed with bonding adhesive, but with welds in certain key points.

The advantage to body adhesive is it burns no metal during installation, thus setting up no metal for future rusting.

When used CORRECTLY (a key point) bonding adhesive can seal the part better from future rust with a lot less labor than welding.

I've seen it used correctly, and I've seen it fail when used incorrectly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2015 at 9:07am
The real concern is if epoxy is strong enough for a unibody car. The trunk pan forms an important part of the unibody construction. For modern cars like Jaguars, Aston Martins and other exotics, the body shell is constructed using epoxy to save time from welding and can be very effective. Most likely your shop will need to at least rivet the pan down with the epoxy for a tight fit or use a few welds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2015 at 9:38pm
A thorough understanding of the design of a uni-body car is needed. Adhesive bonding can make a car stronger, yes, that's right stronger than the design of the car allows in a collision. Welds are strategically placed some many millimeters apart to help absorb the collision impact. A continues adhesive bead does not allow for the accordion effect of a collision on the uni-body of the vehicle. 
With that said, both adhesive bonding and welding have pros and cons. Unless you weld the replacement panel in exactly as the original factory design you would be changing the collision impact design of the car. Sooooo, which is better, is still a debate, unless specifically stated from the vehicle manufacturer.  

In the case of restoring an old car, the adhesive bonding has the pros of less welds, no heat, no burnt surfaces to cause corrosion and a quick install. Welding has the pros of economical, the tried and trusted procedure and common method of repair. I have used both and feel that one way or another may not really benefit more than the other. If you have welding skills and understand the need to replicate spot weld replacement locations and understanding plug weld tensile strength vs. factory spot weld tensile strength than you can replicate the factory panel installment. Adhesive bonding can eliminate welding and significantly reduce potential future corrosion issues. 
Both have cons and should be considered. Adhesive can make the car too strong in a collision (We try not to consider this in a restored car since we don't plan on an accident) and welding can cause serious corrosion issues if the proper steps are not taken before, during and after the welding.
I would research this and talk to professionals and make your final decision after the research on adhesive bonding vs. welding
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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