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Tire Balancing Beads?

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nothingface5384 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nothingface5384 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/01/2015 at 5:31pm
Seems like the faster youd go the beads would all couple together making an imbalance?

Just put the weights on inside of rim and call it a day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nda racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/01/2015 at 11:21pm
Interesting point on speed. Our delivery trucks don't go too fast and that's a much bigger tire.


A bubble balancer is a nice investment. It's cheap and simple. A problem we ran into years ago with spin balancers was, they need recalibrated every so often with use.

So you have to trust the shop is getting this done. One time we had a bunch of returns on shaking tires, and that was the problem. They sent someone out to recalibrate our machine and we were fine for awhile.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/02/2015 at 3:18pm
Had a local shop that I refused to go to. They would not get their spin balancer calibrated and always had a vibration, stupid me got a few tires from them before I figured this out. They also had the alignment tech who did not understand the principles of alignment and only did what the machine told  him to do.

You can't use any of these products in 2008 up US cars, you will clog the TPMS sensor or damage it.
I'm halfway through getting the tools needed to clone sensor I.D's so I can swap summers and winters on my Lancer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/02/2015 at 4:31pm
I'm sure the beads have their limitations just like everything else.

I'd guess they work OK in vehicles that normally accelerate to speed and stay there, You know like 99% of street vehicles. Airplanes, of course the tire only gets used when landing, taking off and taxiing.

I would guess bead balancing a road racing tire might be a recipe for vibration, constant extremes of acceleration and deceleration probably dislodge the beads from their position. I'd guess if you go around a track in a circle to the left for long periods of time, it might work well.

I wonder what tire shake would be like with these beads in a Top Fuel dragster or funny car???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxdreamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/02/2015 at 5:20pm
I always request my shop to not put weights on the outside of wheels. It eliminates weight damage to the face of rims so no corrosion and it looks better! Stick on lead weights on the inside of the rim always work good for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bikerfox Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/02/2015 at 7:44pm
Originally posted by amxdreamer amxdreamer wrote:

I always request my shop to not put weights on the outside of wheels. It eliminates weight damage to the face of rims so no corrosion and it looks better! Stick on lead weights on the inside of the rim always work good for me.

Except when you are running 68-70 Bendix calipers--they don't mix well with tape weights where tape weights would normally reside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amxdreamer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2015 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by bikerfox bikerfox wrote:


Originally posted by amxdreamer amxdreamer wrote:

I always request my shop to not put weights on the outside of wheels. It eliminates weight damage to the face of rims so no corrosion and it looks better! Stick on lead weights on the inside of the rim always work good for me.


Except when you are running 68-70 Bendix calipers--they don't mix well with tape weights where tape weights would normally reside.


Are the original bendix that close? I didn't really look at them that close when I removed them from mine for future use. The weights I had installed are quite thin and have no issues with the later style brakes.

I have only built my one car from scratch so am NOT an expert or "master mechanic" by ANY means. I was just pointing out what I did on my AMX and that I do this on my daily drivers, trailers etc. when I get new tires installed or during rebalancing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nda racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2015 at 1:47pm
I've had to watch the placement of stick on weights. I've had to redo a few in my time. I even reuse them. Clean and redouble face tape them.

Edited by nda racer - Mar/03/2015 at 1:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2015 at 3:29pm
One thing that is overlooked by 99.99% of the people mounting new tires is indexing them correctly on the rim. New tires will have a small dot on the sidewall, usually red or yellow. This dot should be lined up with the valve stem, or within 15 degrees of it. The dot & valve stem mark the heavy & light side of the tire & rim. Matching them up can reduce the amount of weight needed to get the assembly balanced, or eliminate weights entirely if you are really lucky. The best mechanic I've ever come across pointed this out to me when I was mounting new tires on some wheels at my friends shop. I was centering the raised white letter name on the valve stem & the mechanic schooled me on why that is the wrong way to do it. I also had a Model A factory service manual that mentioned the same thing, so this isn't new technology.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nda racer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2015 at 4:29pm
and if there is no dot, look for where the tire is joined together inside. Sometimes it's even marked with a sticker. You even see three sections sometimes, start with the larger one to the stem.
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