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Disc Brake Conversion For Javelin

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Mopar_guy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2015 at 7:15pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

You can save $200-250 by doing the leg work to gather the parts yourself -- and getting your hubs turned down. Drive the studs out of the drum brakes, then drive the hub out of the drum. The drum won't be usable after -- center will be warped. Use a wood block and a big hammer to get the hub out. Just don't strike metal to metal or you'll ruin the hub. Any brake shop can turn the edge of the hub to fit the new rotor. If you have a couple old AMC rotors the worn rotor can be turned off the hub -- that's how Scarebird makes their hubs. If you're paying a good machine shop to turn a rotor off check price first. Might be as much as getting one from Scarebird, depending on local rates and how well you know someone. The rotor can supposedly be cut off with a brake lathe too, I haven't tried it. 


Just a word of caution - look carefully to see how much the drum is staked on to the hub before you start swinging. I have two sets of hubs that were staked so hard that I had to cut the stud off and drill it out. I had to get oversized studs (the knurled part) and even a couple of those I had to tack weld because the holes in the hub were so deformed due to the staking by the factory.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/04/2015 at 8:03am
There is a trick to removing the drum from the hub that does not involve a BFH. Mine were staked in place so I slipped a hole saw over the stud without the arbor bit. I chose one that was a snug fit over the stud so the inside teeth removed most of the knurl. I then gently tapped the studs with a hammer to remove them. I did replace them with longer studs to go with my thicker aftermarket wheels and 1/4" wheel spacers to clear my 13" brakes but I did not destroy the original studs or damage the hub. 
One of the main issues with useing stock original brakes on a daily driver is getting replacement parts if you need them right away. Good luck finding rotars, pads or calipers on a trip out of town with 40 year old brakes. I can get replacement parts for my brakes at many parts houses with no special ordering. For a hobby car that is rarely driven, that is not an issue. My Prostreet 77 AMX has been sitting for several years and was only driven about 5000 miles in the last 15+ years so brake wear has not been an issue. It still runs the original, rebuilt brakes. It doesn't take $1000 to run decent, easy to source modern brakes. I just returned from a just under 1000 mile road trip in my Javelin and have about 20,000 miles on this car after the brake swap to 13" disc brakes for $300. All I had to do was trim some off the center of the hub and fab up some 1/4" thick steel brackets with a drill press and angle grinder.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/13-disc-brakes-for-amcs_topic49307_page3.html?KW=13+brakes


Edited by prostreetamx - Mar/04/2015 at 8:06am
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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69AMX364 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69AMX364 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/06/2015 at 4:31pm
I had converted my 69 AMX from 4 piston brakes to the 71 up version with single piston. Also removed power booster setup and went with the 4 wheel drum master cylinder after removing the residual check valve. Took only a little more effort to push the brakes, but was easy to adjust to the feel. And the brakes still would work when then engine died.
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