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Transmission issue?

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1966ambassador View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 8:31am
Hi guys,

I am kind of not at the best place here. Yesterday while driving home, I put my car in gear to drive away and I did go forward, but not as near as fast as it should. It was just creeping forward, slowly accelerating. When I put the petal down, it revs up, but doesn't really accelerate. 

I was already having a transmission issue. It was kicking into gear, hard, when I shifted. The kick had relatively stopped but now, I don't know what to do. This is my daily driver and the transmission was supposedly rebuilt around 7 years ago. It has not been driven around much since then.

Do you guys think it's the transmission? Could it be something else? I was having issue with the differential whining.

Thanks,
Jordan
1966 Ambassador 990 Sedan w/ 4 barrel 327 5.3L
http://s31.photobucket.com/user/JordanPerry98/library/1966%20Ambassador?sort=3&page=1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toolmanxiii Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 8:40am
Maybe a stupid question. But . have you checked the fluid lvl ?

71 360 Hornet sst 83 2wd 360/727 Eagle wagon (crashed)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 10:25am
Is it a six or V-8 with aluminum or iron case transmission and is that problem starting off in D1 or D2?

With aluminum case transmission the front servo, which is accessible with the pan off, gets adjusted IIRC with a 1/4" spacer at 9 inch lbs.  Pull the spacer and tighten the nut. Take a real good look inside especially around the bands before putting the pan back on and topping off with fluid.

The rear servo adjustment IIRC is 9 foot lbs., back it off 3/4 turn and tighten the nut. You don't need to take the pan off for that.

Front servo is for 2cd and/or 3rd and rear servo is for 1st and/or reverse. 

I suspect you'll be pulling the transmission if adjustment doesn't help. If you're mechanically inclined don't be afraid to DIY. The TSM goes into it with quite a lot of detail. I've put one together and taken one apart and haven't tried one out in a car yet so limited experience talking here.   


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snotty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 1:07pm
Originally posted by toolmanxiii toolmanxiii wrote:

Maybe a stupid question. But . have you checked the fluid lvl ?


Son's car: '73 Gremlin X, 401, T-10, Mopar 8.75 rear with 3.23 sure grip. My car: '70 Newport Convertible, 440 automatic
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1966ambassador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/07/2014 at 6:22pm
Well, did anyone think of the detent cable?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocklandrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/08/2014 at 2:11am
Originally posted by 1966ambassador 1966ambassador wrote:

Well, did anyone think of the detent cable?


Are you saying that was the problem or are you suggesting it might be another cause??   
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1974 Hornet X (new)
1975 Gremlin X (new)
1964 Classic 660 Cross Country
1965 American 440-H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/08/2014 at 9:58am
1. Check the rear axle on the right side. Sounds like you might have a spun hub. Take the hubcap off and have someone look and see if the nut on the axle turns before te car starts to move.

2. 65-67 models have a cable from the throttle linkage to the trans. Pull the pin out of the clevis at the throttle linkage. Hold the clevis between your thumb and a finger. It should move in and out easily, only moves about an inch. If not, that may be the issue. That is a "throttle valve cable" not just a kick-down. It kicks down when pushed all the way in (throttle on the floor) and speed is under a set speed (controlled by a governor on the output shaft). Before that (and over that speed) it controls internal trans pressure to allow soft shifts and still provide pressure to hold the clutches and drums under power. The faster you try to go the more pressure it needs inside, but hold it at high pressure and it will shift hard at low speeds.

If those two aren't the problem, then you have an internal trans issue. There are some things you can do short of a rebuild, but if the cable has been off or too stiff for long you may need clutches and bands.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1966ambassador Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/08/2014 at 3:57pm
I think it may be the throttle valve cable. I asked a trusted mechanic and that's what he thought. After all, I did just replace the carb and the plate where it attaches is different from the factory. 

The mechanic said that the cable was the problem,  but he isn't very savvy in AMCs. The cable was apparently binding and wasn't snapping back. So I'm going to need a new one and a place to mount it. Hopefully i'll figure it out. 
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