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79 amc spirit front seal replace help automatic

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crako View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crako Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 79 amc spirit front seal replace help automatic
    Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 12:02pm
I have the 258 l-6 engine and transmission out. There is trans fluid behind the starter, Does any one have information or know where i can find instructions on how to replace the front seal. My motor manual only gives info on a manual transmission. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 12:47pm
The front seal in the auto trans is pretty simple.
1) Take the bolts out of the torque converter that hold it to the flexplate. There is an access panel in front of the bell housing, between bell and oil pan. Turn the engine by hand and take the bolts out.
2) Take the bolts holding the trans to engine out. The trans will come away from the engine with the torque converter still in the transmission.
3) After the engine and trans are separated, pull the torque converter out of the front of the trans.
4) The front seal is right there where the torque converter pulled out. Pry it out and tap another in. Put a little sealant around the edges of the new seal before carefully tapping it in. You don't want to deform the seal. Use a large socket that fits near the edge of the seal, or a block of wood. It's not a good idea to tap directly on the seal with a hammer. Some of us do, but you don't want to deform the seal and that is easy to do with a hammer.
5) Put the torque converter back on the trans. Look inside the hole in the converter. You will see an inner piece with splines. That matches the inner shaft on the front of the trans. You have to turn the converter and make sure it goes back on those splines, then turn some more and the "ears" on the converter neck will go into the front pump. The converter has to sit back on the trans the way it did when you separated the trans from the engine.
6) Once the converter is back all the way line the trans up with the engine and bolt it on. The converter should turn by hand until it is bolted to the flexplate, it shouldn't be jammed between the engine and trans. If it won't turn -- it's jammed -- pull the trans back off. The converter isn't on the trans all the way, Rotate the converter while pushing slightly back into the trans and you should feel it line up and push onto the splines. Pushing too hard may not let the internals of the converter turn enough to align with the splines.
Frank Swygert
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crako View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crako Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 5:50pm
Good info. Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 8:48pm
While you have the converter out of the transmission very carefully look at the hub of the converter. They have a tendency to crack from the corners of the slots that drive the pump. I would pull the pump out of the transmission and replace the converter bushing, the O-ring and the pump gasket also. If the converter bushing is worn a new seal might still leak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

While you have the converter out of the transmission very carefully look at the hub of the converter. They have a tendency to crack from the corners of the slots that drive the pump. I would pull the pump out of the transmission and replace the converter bushing, the O-ring and the pump gasket also. If the converter bushing is worn a new seal might still leak.
   I'll bet the hub is cracked. Its happened to me in 2 trannys. One 904, the other was a 998. [ they both use the same converter and neither were LU].
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter Marano Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 10:24pm
I had heard that the cracked pump drive was a cold climate phenomenon.

Have you folks seen it in the south or west?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2014 at 11:07pm
I live in Denver, not sure I would call it a cold climate deal but cold cant help the problem. I work in a shop and have seem it several dozen times. Not much any more, but we dont work on many 3 speed automatics any more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/20/2014 at 1:00am
Originally posted by Peter Marano Peter Marano wrote:

I had heard that the cracked pump drive was a cold climate phenomenon.

Have you folks seen it in the south or west?
A friend of mine that ran a transmission shop used to see it all the time. it used to be common on the TF6s not so common on the TF8.
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crako View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crako Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/20/2014 at 7:59pm
I HAVE THE SEAL REPLACED AND THE TRANS BACK ON THE ENGINE. FOUND NO CRACKS. 
 a bit of info for the inexperienced like me. The 4 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate were off set from each other, for balance i guess.  ( BE SURE TO MARK ONE OF THE BOLTS SO IT CAN BE PUT BACK THE WAY IT WAS. ) 

I had to make a pattern with poster board to get the holes to line up. Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2014 at 12:45am
I spray a little paint through one of the flexplate web holes onto the torque converter when I'm taking it apart.


Edited by carnuck - Oct/24/2014 at 12:48am
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