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Non start question

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bigbad69 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2014 at 8:24am
Originally posted by davester304 davester304 wrote:

can I now eliminate the entire key system - (key to solenoid) as the problem for it not starting?
No. The ignition switch performs two functions:
1. Energize the solenoid to actuate the starter.
2. Energize the coil.

Since you were able to get the car started using the key, you verified 1., but by connecting the battery directly to the coil you bypassed 2. Turn the key to the "on" position and check for voltage at the coil "+" terminal (with either a voltmeter or test light). If you have power to the coil, you can eliminate the ignition switch.
69 Javelin SST BBO 390 T10
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davester304 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davester304 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2014 at 6:19pm
I tested the coil wire with key on - but didn't get anything. Tested while turning it over and got flashing test light - swapped out the coil for one i had around and it started and ran. Went for a burn around the block and made it back. Not sure if the coil was the problem or just got lucky this day! Thanks for any thoughts on this. Will try it again later and see if it still starts up. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbad69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2014 at 8:30am
The coil is low impedance, so if the points are closed when you test for power at the coil "+" terminal, you will not see much voltage. The test light flashing while cranking the engine is normal because the points are opening and closing.

It could be your old coil was bad or weak, or maybe in replacing it, you disturbed a connection that was bad. Either way, your ignition switch does not seem to be a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davester304 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2014 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by bigbad69 bigbad69 wrote:

The coil is low impedance, so if the points are closed when you test for power at the coil "+" terminal, you will not see much voltage. The test light flashing while cranking the engine is normal because the points are opening and closing.

It could be your old coil was bad or weak, or maybe in replacing it, you disturbed a connection that was bad. Either way, your ignition switch does not seem to be a problem.

Thanks Ross...the thought that I just disturbed a wire here or there crossed my mind and makes it worse than the car not running at all! I will swap out the coil for the one that was in there and see what happens. Also going to pull the alternator and have it tested at an auto electric shop to be sure that isn't at fault... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davester304 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2014 at 1:23pm
Got the alternator tested today - works fine....will get the Voltage Regulator tested next

Edited by davester304 - Aug/29/2014 at 10:25am
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If you don't look back at it when you park it, you bought the wrong car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davester304 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/29/2014 at 10:22pm
OK something new - put the alt back in and now the alt lamp on the dash won't go off - and it is super bright - got brighter with higher revs. Checked the connections again and made sure the belt was tight. No difference on the next start up, or the next - but the next time the engine just kept running with the keys in my hand - see the first post in this thread! Not sure if anyone is interested in trying to help with the keeps on running issue - but maybe with the bright alt light issue? Thanks for anything!
1970 Javelin SST
If you don't look back at it when you park it, you bought the wrong car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/30/2014 at 9:37pm
With the key off, hook a volt meter or test light to the positive side of the coil and see if it shows power there. If it does, fix that first. If it's off that's good so now start the engine and try to shut it off again. Check to see if there's power at the coil and there probably is since it's still running. Try dis connecting the voltage regulator and see if the engine shuts off. If it does (I think it will) for some reason your getting feedback to the ignition circuit. I had the same issue with my MSD. You most likely have to put a diode in to stop that. Before I go there, see what you find out by doing this test first.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davester304 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/31/2014 at 5:46pm
Originally posted by Mopar_guy Mopar_guy wrote:

With the key off, hook a volt meter or test light to the positive side of the coil and see if it shows power there. If it does, fix that first. If it's off that's good so now start the engine and try to shut it off again. Check to see if there's power at the coil and there probably is since it's still running. Try dis connecting the voltage regulator and see if the engine shuts off. If it does (I think it will) for some reason your getting feedback to the ignition circuit. I had the same issue with my MSD. You most likely have to put a diode in to stop that. Before I go there, see what you find out by doing this test first.


Thanks Mopar_guy - will do your tests and let you know how it goes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cheynemitt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/10/2015 at 2:11pm
I have a similar issue. can you help me out? I bought a 67 rebel with no key switch. there is a rigged pushbutton switch with alligator clips on the battery to the starter. motor cranks but I have no spark anywhere. do I need to run additional wires to the coil or distributor?
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