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Easy 1 wire alternator swap |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
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I just found this out on my street car ( above SI10 ALT) as I installed a custom dash/gauges and don't remember hooking the ALT light back up. I saw this when I went to move the car and saw the volts low. When I went to pull it back in the garage a thru some RPM at it and it started to charge. My drag car using the stock ALT is the same way as I did not wire in a light, I will some day on both cars, so till I make a pass it will not charge. So just about any ALT can be a 1 wire but will not charge till it sees higher RPM. Dave ---- |
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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To answer dbomb's original question, the Powermaster upgrade offered by Matt is the only one so far that fits the bill. I see it at Summit for about $165. I like to cruise the junkyards for those kind of parts and for less than $30, 1 hacksaw cut and maybe a pulley swap, I can get a 100+ amp CS130 that will bolt right in to replace an early Prestolite or Motorola. In the link below I think it shows how it can be wired and that too is quite easy. Dave, the way you describe it you have neither 1 wire nor 3 wire. You shouldn't have to rev your car way up to get it to charge. The way I heard it from a hot rod guy the 1 wire type puts out a steady 13.5 V and you don't have to rev it up for it to kick in.
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348AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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I have had the powermaster 140 AMP one wire and it works AWESOME. It comes with a tag that shows the RPM and AMP output tested for that particular alternator and can be wired like the factory or 1 wire. I chose the 1 wire because it was so easy and want to preserve my original Votage regulator by keeping it disconnected. With the 1 wire you just blip the throttle to 1400 RPM on initial start ups and it starts charging and keeps charging at all RPM until you turn off the ignition again. Its been VERY reliable and fit very well. No one is going to notice/care its not an original alternator unless you are at a pebble beach concourse judged show anyway. |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
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When I wired my drag car I forgot to wire in the light and the street car I thought I did wire one in but now thinking I may have forgotten it also when I went with the custom Speed Hut gauges Also saw posted you can wire in a resistor in place of the light and may do this but I will fix both someday as I don't want to blip the gas to get either to charge. Dave ---- |
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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jeremy0711
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/12/2008 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 1547 |
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All you have to do is plug in the orange wire to the alternator and a hot wire to the battery or hot post on the solenoid. The AMC factory wires clip into the SI plastic plug-in. I bought the harness for a CS to SI at Napa so I didn't cut any wires. If you use the later GM alternator brackets then any SI or CS will fit. The advantage of a CS series are higher quality components and less working effort on alternator to achieve the same results as something working at 50% and up most of the time.
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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Regardless of which upgrade alternator you use the output wire should also be increased in size to at least 8 ga.
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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I helped a guy put in a CS130 in a gremlin.
Easy part was the wiring, even disconnecting the Motorola regulator the orange wire ending at the alternator is still connected to the lamp. 3 glitches The bolt hole that the alternator pivots on was too small and we needed to run a drill through it. This was on a 401 and I never ran across that when installing same alternator on a 232. Clock position was out with the output stud very close to the block. We had to take the pulley off again because the case halves had to separate about 1/8 inch to be able to rotate 1/3 turn. The adjust arm with the slot in the middle was too wide and interfered with the case. It had to be modified. In hindsight it would have been better to select an alternator that was wider between the mounting holes, which were even more plentiful in our local junk yard. As his car was originally a six with alternator and regulator on the left, he can now remove all those wires that were run across to the other side, except the orange that got connected to the L terminal on the CS130.
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