Low-cost 401 "refresh"

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Picked up a very clean 1975 era 401, oil/oil galleys look very nice. Compression within specs. The coolant system is the nicest I have ever seen, timing cover water pump area looks like new, no corrosion. That said, I am planning to essentially refresh the engine as best I can without getting into machine work if possible. Not a performance build at all, just want reliability, and a v8 under-hood instead of a 12 mpg 258.

So far, I have a set of spare, fully rebuilt stock style heads (bridged rockers) that are to be installed. They were from an 80s Wagoneer, assuming they should bolt up without issue and not run into push rod problems? they were machined for positive stem seals, and those will be installed. 

The plan is:
Totally clean long block while still sealed, paint T/C, Oil Pan, V/C, heads, short block separately.
Replace head-gaskets/heads (fel-pro blue, K&W copper coat)
remove oil pan/clean/gasket.
Clean/check oil pickup, replace is necessary. 
New rear main seal
Remove timing cover/clean/gasket/crank seal/sleeve balancer if nec.  
Check timing set, replace if necessary
Replace all freeze plugs-head/block
New valve cover gaskets
Performer intake/pan gasket
Stock manifolds/stock gaskets
New, stock fuel pump
650 Holley, Vac secondaries or 650 Eddy. 

Can anyone give any other tips/options that I might want to do while I am "in there" Anything else to check/clean?

Thinking about cam, but the cost/issues with cam bearing install is worrying, (shop around here would charge in the $200-300 range for install and more than likely do it wrong) as well as potential rocker geometry issues. Like I said, planning on leaving the bridged rocker setup/stock push-rods for the sake of cost. 

Basically, shooting for somewhere between a "rust-oleum rebuild" and a full and proper rebuild. 

Keep in mind, this is a perfectly fine running motor, that most would be happy to just run "as-is" I am just trying to do the right thing, cover my arse as well as possible, and minimize the possibility of having to pull it back out as much as possible.

Edited by SportaboutX - Apr/23/2014 at 2:37pm

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SportaboutX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/10/2011 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 1010	Post Options Post Reply Quote SportaboutX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Low-cost 401 "refresh" Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 2:13pm
	Picked up a very clean 1975 era 401, oil/oil galleys look very nice. Compression within specs. The coolant system is the nicest I have ever seen, timing cover water pump area looks like new, no corrosion. That said, I am planning to essentially refresh the engine as best I can without getting into machine work if possible. Not a performance build at all, just want reliability, and a v8 under-hood instead of a 12 mpg 258. So far, I have a set of spare, fully rebuilt stock style heads (bridged rockers) that are to be installed. They were from an 80s Wagoneer, assuming they should bolt up without issue and not run into push rod problems? they were machined for positive stem seals, and those will be installed. The plan is: Totally clean long block while still sealed, paint T/C, Oil Pan, V/C, heads, short block separately. Replace head-gaskets/heads (fel-pro blue, K&W copper coat) remove oil pan/clean/gasket. Clean/check oil pickup, replace is necessary. New rear main seal Remove timing cover/clean/gasket/crank seal/sleeve balancer if nec. Check timing set, replace if necessary Replace all freeze plugs-head/block New valve cover gaskets Performer intake/pan gasket Stock manifolds/stock gaskets New, stock fuel pump 650 Holley, Vac secondaries or 650 Eddy. Can anyone give any other tips/options that I might want to do while I am "in there" Anything else to check/clean? Thinking about cam, but the cost/issues with cam bearing install is worrying, (shop around here would charge in the $200-300 range for install and more than likely do it wrong) as well as potential rocker geometry issues. Like I said, planning on leaving the bridged rocker setup/stock push-rods for the sake of cost. Basically, shooting for somewhere between a "rust-oleum rebuild" and a full and proper rebuild. Keep in mind, this is a perfectly fine running motor, that most would be happy to just run "as-is" I am just trying to do the right thing, cover my arse as well as possible, and minimize the possibility of having to pull it back out as much as possible. Edited by SportaboutX - Apr/23/2014 at 2:37pm

1greasygt Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Jun/26/2013 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 304	Post Options Post Reply Quote 1greasygt Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 6:36pm
	Sounds like a good plan. Once you have the heads off you'll be able to see closer the wear on the cyl. and make a decision then if it needs to go further or not.
	greasy 83 Spirit GT 79 Ranchero GT

74Bubblefender Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: The AMC form Status: Offline Points: 2589	Post Options Post Reply Quote 74Bubblefender Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/23/2014 at 8:47pm
	All that gets shot to heck when you discover a cracked piston
	We are just about to forge new AMC V8 crankshafts.. please check here http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showthread.php?19564

Xplorer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/07/2013 Location: Sellersville PA Status: Offline Points: 40	Post Options Post Reply Quote Xplorer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/24/2014 at 6:10am
	Yeah, like the "rebuilt" 360 I bought a handfull of years ago. I wish I was as careful as you when I bought that. Looks like they were using nitrous on it when I took the heads off.

SportaboutX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/10/2011 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 1010	Post Options Post Reply Quote SportaboutX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/24/2014 at 4:02pm
	Not every used engine is "bad." Wear sure, but unusable without machining...not sure about that. Looking for in the 200hp range haha. However if indeed an issue arises such as a cracked piston, I will send the crank off to get checked, and if all is well, sell it on, parting the rest. I've well less than the value of a good 401 crank in this endeavor so far. Compression checked out, she was running fine when I acquired, so I'd doubt a cracked piston.