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LED conversion "problem" |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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>>One of the big issues with dim dash lights are dirty bulbs & covers.<<
Amen to that! In my case, however, the dash has been out twice, this last time, the whole dash was replaced with the dash from my parts car, and the cluster was apart, all bulbs removed, cleaned, etc. - in part because I rewired some things for the 4.0 - the check engine light is wired to the Jeep computer so it is more like stock/factory. Jeremy - yeah, as bulbs go in the house, I am replacing some with LEDs as I can afford it, and as I find the proper style that works best with the fixture and purpose and use of the light, does it face up or down, do I need omni-directional or dimmable, etc. Some of the cheaper and earlier LEDs aren't dimmable, and those that are work with "most but not all" dimmers. I'm determined this Eagle will be switched over for multiple reasons, among them less power consumption, heat, reliability (no one likes changing some of these bulbs!) Ken/pitcrew - yeah, I knew it wouldn't be easy, having dabbled in electronics as a hobby when LEDs were first introduced to the hobbyist market - and seeing the multitudes of solutions out there, each claiming to be the best. Oddly, I'd wondered about the color, and had this thought that the light from the LEDS would be different from incandescent because of the source and spectrum - wondered about matching colors. That's something to try for sure. I will check and see if I can return/swap some of these I bought. Like I said, not bashing them, but was very disappointed in the lack of lumins. Even with no lens, there just wasn't the output I was hoping for. As far as contact in the socket - yeah, know what you are referring to - over the years there's been so many times I've had to "pull the wires out just a bit" on the 194 bulb to make better contact, or tweak the inside of the socket, but these sockets are like new, the 194s worked absolutely perfect - even wiggling them while lit the 194 never wavered or blinked. With these LEDs even with the socket contacts pulled out a bit and the socket squeezed a tad with pliers, I had to hold the LED to the side to make it light. When I let go, it went out most of the time. That means a few good bumps in that little short-sprung 4x4 and the lights go out. LOL With my vision, I typically run the interior lights full-on all the time. I've only ever had one vehicle where I felt the need to dim the dash lights at all, so I could live without that feature/function (unless they are REALLY SUPER BRIGHT) I agree on the festoon type - the one I got wasn't very bright with a cover on. So I left the cover off- and it looks cool as it's a cold light, more blue than others. The best/brightest I found was the array I mentioned. It was a board with 9 LEDs, and a lead wire to an adapter. The adapter tool the place of the festoon bulb like the plug on a light cord - and it powered the LED array you stuck into the light with double-stick foam (and the heat promptly released the foam and the array drops!) Love the light as it's BRIGHT. Don't even think of looking directly at it. but it runs HOT. Oh, well, it's on my wife's sewing machine anyway, I need to order another for my own use. danielstern - that's the name I couldn't remember! I recall reading some stuff on his site last year and being fairly impressed. (it takes a lot to impress me for some reason) Wrambler that dash looks cool! Thanks for the links and tips, Dave - I forgot that you also did a bunch of custom work on your car - including LEDs Thanks to all. |
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Wrambler
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/02/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 4199 |
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billd, when I did those, I experimented with the ends of the leds, I did what is shown, I inverted the end, I even tried a small circle of reflective HVAC tape on the end to reflect the light in different means and the flat end with the opaque surface was about as good as it gets.
I know you don't want to fool with the sockets, but the doing it like the ones I have would eliminate the issue of loose contacts. With the panel out it would be an easy wire and you could grab a full feed from the park light circuit and eliminate any reduction in lumens from possible drop over the resistor spring. I intend to someday move mine to the straight park light feed and see what difference if any it makes. I bought the ones I did simply because I did not want to do resistors or 4 lamp series runs. With custom gauges it changes the means needed to light them anyway, so why not! Try looking on evelbay some. I just looked till I found what looked best, it was a gamble, but mine did not cost me more than $20 total, (IIRC) I have extra spares. |
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Wrambler
69 AMC Rambler 4.0L, 5 speed 2015 Grand Cherokee Limited 2019 Chrysler 300 |
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Dustintf522
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/08/2019 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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My domes lights in my rebel are from superbrightled
https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1967-american-motors-rebel-vehicle-led-lights?make=4&model=1369&year=1967 I picked the 'warm' I wanted the same lighting just led. I'm very pleased, a hair brighter but knowing that they wont get got enough to melt the brittle old plastic covers. Priceless. As far as replacing the original resistor lights in the dash. This is something I'd like to do as well, but everything's working correctly. For now... hah.
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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You do have to watch out as some LED lights can get really hot. I put some on my wife's sewing machine to add light - they got so hot it destroyed the 3M adhesive. I've been burned by LED lights of certain types. It's not the LED itself as much as the support circuitry many replacement bulbs have. Generally not a problem with the types used in the dash - 194 and so on. My dome light LED does run HOT. I suspect it has circuits inside that allow it to be installed either way and still work. Some bulbs you can do that, some you can't - you have to watch polarity. I have some that will work either direction and can be dimmed - some cannot.
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Oh yeah, I have one of the hotest single LED made. It is mounted on a thick metal plate, which is then mounted to a giant finned heat sink, and fan. If its heat dont burn you, the focused light intensity will most definitely burn your retina, in less than a second, if not careful. That one, being one of three, belongs in our TV, and not for use in an automobile. Though heat generated by LED is much less than incandescent, being focused primarily at contact with the source of emittion. So what ever the led, it self, is resting on will heat up, a lot more than the radiant heat felt from the led. Usually circuit boards will be the closest material to the led, unless they are mounted with leads and allow heat to dissipate freely, or mounted to a heat sink of some sort. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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You should see the big heat sinks on my LED shop lights....... maybe you have, I posted pics a couple years or so back. The heat sinks just above the LEDs themselves are running 115 degrees right now - meaning the LEDs themselves are hotter to get the aluminum heat sinks that hot. Granted, not as hot as other lights - but we need to say they run "cooler" - not "cool" LOL.
My shop AC is set to 72 and that's about what it is in here now - except for those lights. But back to automotive LEDs - one has to watch out for the supporting circuitry and other items even if the LED itself isn't hot. There are differences between cheap and quality LEDs, but for say a dash instrument illumination LED - what, .5 to .7 watts? That's not a lot of power to dissipate as heat. That string of lights I set up for one of my wife's 4 sewing machines - that baby ran hot. Wow. You didn't touch the lights when they'd been on a few minutes - no wonder the adhesive let loose. |
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EVF_Sportabout
AMC Apprentice Joined: Oct/04/2018 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 199 |
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Guys Try these!
All from Amazon They are brighter than bulbs and a side benefit is less current draw through your headlight switch. Use these in the front park and turn signal lights. Use these in the tail light signal. When you put them in you will need to replace your flasher with this one. The current reduction will make the original not flash. Use these in backup light. Use either of these in rear marker light. (Hornet) Use these in front marker light. Newer version 194 amber for side markers. I have not actually tried these yet. Use these in dash lights. The illumination is much more brilliant so this old fart can actually read the dash again. Use these in dome light. (Hornet) Edited by EVF_Sportabout - Jun/21/2019 at 10:35pm |
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mdonatelli42
AMC Fan Joined: Apr/14/2022 Location: Fort Myers Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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Hello,
I am interested in replacing the bulbs behind my speedometer. I have the 69 TSM for the Rambler, Rebel, AMX, Javelin and Ambassador, but I do not see a section that addresses "dashboard removal." Does anyone here know the process or have a video of how to remove a dashboard for a 1969 AMC Rebel? I am sure I can do the job, but I do not want to damage the dash or any connectors. I appreciate any advise anyone can provide. Thank you! Matthew D.
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