Disc brake conversion

To measure front to rear bias, use a torque wrench, adjust the bias so that the rears require about 5 lbs/ft less torque than the fronts to rotate them when the pedal is depressed to a point that still allows the rotors to be turned. Use a wooden dowel or stick (that's cut to the correct length) between the steering column and the pedal to get the correct pedal travel and rotor rotation resistance. This is an old road racers trick I've used for decades and it has never failed me. You can use farna's method of testing, although I have stopped doing that too because this method works so well.

It's pretty important to bench bleed the master cylinder.
What everyone forgets is that the master needs to be absolutely level front to back while bench bleeding to ensure all the air inside the bore can be vented out.  Read the directions, it states this.

I have recently started using the suction method of brake bleeding. I use a large plastic syringe with a clear vinyl hose on it to connect to the bleeders. The syringe was purchased for correctly mixing small amounts of 2 cycle oil and gas for my chainsaw. I place a round or a couple rounds of teflon tape on the bleeder threads to seal them. If you try to bypass this step it will always appear to blow air bubbles into the clear vinyl hose as the fluid passing along side the threads sucks in air from around the threads..  I open the furthest from the master cylinder bleeder first and draw brake fluid out until no air bubbles appear. Then each bleeder respectively getting closer to the master cylinder until all have been bled. Do this repeatedly until no air bubbles show up in the clear vinyl hose. Make sure you check the master cylinder fluid level all the time. Letting it deplete too far will re-introduce air into the master cylinder bore and you will end up removing the master and bench bleeding it again.



Edited by White70JavelinSST - Dec/12/2016 at 9:13am

Since your not leaking any fluid and also not loosing any,  like if it was filling the booster or seeping under the carpet and after a good bleeding then the concern is the master cylinder. Vacuum method works great but if you don't have a vacuum pump then engine vacuum works great as long as you have a catch can like uncljohn stated.

elmusso wrote: Hi,   New to this forum and new to being a 1960 Rambler 6 (i believe)  owner. Looking for any tips or tricks I should know about while working on my car.

The most important and cost effective is purchase a TSM (technical service manual) for your car.
The 2nd most important, is once purchased follow the directions.