Original author SC397
Yep, I have a 2WD AW4 bolted to a 304 in my 69 Javelin running
flawlessly for 2 summers now. Probably 6000 miles in this car on top of
the who knows how many miles when it was in the Jeep. I sent a PM with
more detail but it is a bolt in operation more or less. I used a GM
type trans mount and modified a stock K-member. I used the 4L flex
plate and welded the 304 counter weight to it. I also used the 4L high
torque starter. I had to fab a bracket for the TPS, and kick down
cable. The drive shaft I used I think came out of a V8 hornet but I am
not sure. I am not a electrical guy either. All I know how to do is
make the smoke come out of the wires. Anyway, I did wire in the
power/comfort switch etc. With some help, I had to wire in a relay to
make the neutral saftey switch work correctly. The bottom line is, it
works perfect. Down shifts, up shifts the whole nine yards. In my
opinion, it is a great transmission and I wouldn't be afraid to put it
behind a 360. On a early ('70) engine, you will have to use the
Bulltear crank adapter.
Mechanically, it all bolts together. I used the 4L flex plate
and welded the counter weight to it. In your case, you need to take the
weight off of a 360 flex plate and weld it in the same location on the
4L plate. Use the crank mounting holes as a reference point. With the
4L flex plate I also used the 4L starter. The other mechanical thing is
that I made up a special bracket to house the TPS and kick down cables.
I used the trans computer for the 4L and figured out where all of the
wires go. The only real tricky part was wiring up the neutral saftey
switch to work correctly. In my opinion if you can spin tires, a 360
won't hurt that transmission if you keep it cool enough. I am running a
tranny cooler that is bolted where the licence plate goes in the front.
Tell you what, the combo of the 304 AW4 3:54 in my Javelin is
remarkable.
I used the floor shifter out of a Comanche Pick up but, I would
think the B&M should work as well. I wired in the lock up converter
and it works perfect.
The output yoke from the 2WD Jeep takes the exact same u-joint as the cars.
The transmission fits in the tunnel of my '69 javelin with no
modification. I had to bend the dip stick tube a little to clear the
engine.
Seriously, I put it in drive and floor it. It either spins tires
or just digs and goes! The transmission starts to shift at 4500 and
fully engages at 5000 rpm. I drive it like I used to drive my Jeeps
with that transmission. Every time it goes out of the garage it gets
flogged. (Just to make sure it works correctly, you know..)
For me, a 3.91:1 gear may be too steep. Mine is a 3:54 behind a
304 and runs 15.3 in the quarter. It churns about 2600 rpm at 70 mph. I
was thinking of going down to a 3.31:1 gear so I can cruse with less
rpm. My best gas mileage so far is like 28 MPG but, I really can't keep
my foot out of it.
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I cut the chunk off as shown and knocked off the round steel shield
from the tail shaft. I used a GM transmission mount and had to elongate
the mounting holes a little. The transmission yoke from the Jeep
accepts the same U-joint as the early AMC cars. I was checking the bell
housing bolt pattern with a V8 spacer plate. I think that I had to
enlarge one hole in the transmission bell from a smaller metric hole to
accept the 3/8" bolt. It seems like I couldn't use one bolt hole due to
the placement of the Jeep crank shaft posisition sensor cavity. The CPS
is not needed because I was not using a engine control module.
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Excuse the dirty interior but, here is a shot of the Jeep shifter with
the console that I modified to work. I installed a simple toggle switch
to the left of the ignition switch for the Power/Comfort switch. I
mounted the TCU to the heater box so you can't really see it but, you
can get at it if you need to.
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. The Jeep owner's manual says the shifter only has 3 forward positions
- the first controls 1st and 2nd combined, the second controls 3rd (or
drive), and the third controls the overdrive. Are you saying you can
shift through all 4 gears now or are you still stuck with whatever rpm
the 1-2 shift decides to come in at?"
I am saying that I don't remember now.... I THOUGHT, that I had
shifted it through all of the gears manually but I will wait until the
snow melts to try it again. Check out some of the Jeep forums, they
have lots of things to say about the AW4. Check the Toyota web
sites(A340,A350,A650E)and see what they say about them. There has GOT
to be a guru out there on these transmissions that knows what takes to
handle real power and, knows what to do to "tune" them.
"The bracket for the TPS looks simple enough but I'm not sure where
the kick down "cable?" is located. I think I'll need a better
explanaition of the carb area hookups eventually."
The bottom picture of the TPS showes it pretty well. It comes in
below the throttle cable. I bent a 90 degree bend on the TPS bracket
and made a square hole for the kick down cable to snap in to. The end
of the cable connects to the carb linkage but you can't see that part.
Basically, I convert the TPS and kick down cable from a fuel injected
4L to a carburated V8.
"It's a good thing nobody wanted the 4.0 intake setup I tried to
sell a month ago - I'm pretty sure the TPS is probably still mounted on
that. Not to mention the wiring for the trans "computer"."
Get all of that stuff you can including the engine wiring harness,
Power/Comfort switch and, the brake switch and bracket that is located
near the brake peddle.
. The Jeep owner's manual says the shifter only has 3 forward positions
- the first controls 1st and 2nd combined, the second controls 3rd (or
drive), and the third controls the overdrive. Are you saying you can
shift through all 4 gears now or are you still stuck with whatever rpm
the 1-2 shift decides to come in at?"
I am saying that I don't remember now.... I THOUGHT, that I had
shifted it through all of the gears manually but I will wait until the
snow melts to try it again. Check out some of the Jeep forums, they
have lots of things to say about the AW4. Check the Toyota web
sites(A340,A350,A650E)and see what they say about them. There has GOT
to be a guru out there on these transmissions that knows what takes to
handle real power and, knows what to do to "tune" them.
"The bracket for the TPS looks simple enough but I'm not sure where
the kick down "cable?" is located. I think I'll need a better
explanaition of the carb area hookups eventually."
The bottom picture of the TPS showes it pretty well. It comes in
below the throttle cable. I bent a 90 degree bend on the TPS bracket
and made a square hole for the kick down cable to snap in to. The end
of the cable connects to the carb linkage but you can't see that part.
Basically, I convert the TPS and kick down cable from a fuel injected
4L to a carburated V8.
"It's a good thing nobody wanted the 4.0 intake setup I tried to
sell a month ago - I'm pretty sure the TPS is probably still mounted on
that. Not to mention the wiring for the trans "computer"."
Get all of that stuff you can including the engine wiring harness,
Power/Comfort switch and, the brake switch and bracket that is located
near the brake pedal
.
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OK... I will attempt to explain how I wired up the AW4 from a 1989 Jeep Comanche (2WD) to my '69 Javelin.
From TCU: Red wire. Ran to the + battery side of the solenoid (probably should have a fuse)
From TCU: Yellow wire. Ran to the "FAN-TRANS" terminal of the fuse block.
From TCU: Light blue/yellow tracer. This is for the lock-up torque
converter. I wired in the brake switch from the Jeep so that it brakes
the ground.
From TCU: Yellow/black tracer. Transmission Diagnostic Data Wire. I didn't wire this up to anything.
From TCU: Tan wire. This is for the Power/Comfort mode. I ran this
to a toggle switch that is supplied with 12V. I think that applying 12V
switches it to the Power Mode.
From TCU: Black wires with ground terminal. Ran to a ground on the fire wall.
From gear selector on the transmission:
Black/yellow tracer. Back up lights. I ran this wire to the "BACK UP TURN" terminal on the fuse block.
Brown/white tracer. Wired to the brown wire from the original shifter that runs to the back up lights.
Black/white tracer. Neutral Safety Switch. Needs to be wired to a
relay for "reverse logic". Don't ask me how this works. I will include
of the wiring sketch on my buddy made this work with a Relay from a
Nissan.
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This is how I had to wire the 4L starter to work with the stock Javelin solenoid.
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THE DRIVE SHAFT LENGTH is 50 1/8" from CENTER TO CENTER of the
U-JOINTS. This is with a V8, 2WD AW4, Jeep yoke and, the AMC20 rear end
in a '69 Javelin. I think that the drive shaft that I used was from a
V8 automatic Hornet/Cord but, I am not sure. I wouldn't want to go any
shorter with the drive shaft so, if you found one in the range of 50.25
to 50.5 it should work fine. To determine the correct length for a
drive shaft, push the transmission yoke in until it bottoms out then
bring it out 1". Measure the center to center distance with the car
loaded on the rear end. (at ride height).
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Edited by poormansMACHINE - Dec/28/2009 at 3:27pm