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195.6 OHV Rod Bearing

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Hemirambler View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jul/14/2020 at 11:21am
Looking for a set for my '65 motor.  Found some from "Rebuilders Choice" (I believe Kanter's house brand) which I believe are Asian mfg.  Not so sure I wanna try the Sum Flung Dung bearings out.

1. I see Kanter has two different listing between the Flat Head and the OHV motor - anyone know what the difference is?

2. I have a couple numbers I think might be right: VP91118, 1620SA, 6620, CB664....I see other numbers that are CLOSE but I dont know what the additional letter mean - anyone have a more complete interchange to help inmy search?




Thanks, Jacin


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2020 at 12:38pm
There was a change in OHV cast iron bearings, from a two-oil hole to a one-oil hole design. I think you could use either.

What size are you looking for?

Why not buy from American Parts Depot or one of our other vendors? You'll get the right parts, and it probably won't cost any more than Kanters (which is never cheap!)




Edited by ramblinrev - Jul/14/2020 at 12:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2020 at 4:00pm
Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:


What size are you looking for?


I'm looking for  STD.  It's FAR easier to find undersized ones - which surprises me a little.

Originally posted by ramblinrev ramblinrev wrote:

Why not buy from American Parts Depot or one of our other vendors? You'll get the right parts, and it probably won't cost any more than Kanters (which is never cheap!) 
 


APD is DOUBLE Kanters. I'm all for supporting the mom and pop shops, but DOUBLE is beyond my threshold, after all I AM driving a Rambler!!!!   I will have to check out the other vendors - though as I've only found a couple on line so far.

Jacin


Edited by Hemirambler - Jul/14/2020 at 4:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2020 at 5:07pm
Here is what I did. Umpteen years ago when I pulled my engine out of Pick Your Part I chanced replacing the (std) rod bearings hoping it would help a faint knock under acceleration. It didn't.

 Knowing my crank needs to be turned I just went on a bearing hunt. I quickly found that if you know the multiple manufacture part numbers you can get really good deals. I found a complete set of six Federal Mogul .030  rod bearings for $10 + $8 shipping. Likewise I got a set of Federal Mogul .020 main bearings for $20 + $13 shipping. And I kick myself for rushing because shortly after I found a set of .010 mains for $20 and free shipping.

That is FAR cheaper then the $60-$85 I would typically see for bearings on Ebay (and vendor wanted even more) when sold by the application description. Frankly I don't get it. I see the same Ebay sellers selling the exact same part for years upon years. Apparently they get a notion in their head that since at some point in time someone paid a too high price now everyone should. And the next guy selling his parts sees that and thinks that is the going rate and sells at a similar price. Well I shouldn't say "sells" because that never seems to happen. End of rant.

 The trick is to get the manufactures part numbers and search those numbers and they can vary so there is a possibility that multiple numbers exist for essentially the same bearing and most manufactures have their own numbers. I was successful doing this with my Corvair too for which the bearings are not cheap.

It works because SOME sellers get boatload of parts, don't want to be bothered looking up the application and sell based on the part number alone and this often equates to a really good deal. But you have to be patient and diligent to persist. It's a time vs money thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/14/2020 at 10:13pm
Wittsend, we're definitely on the same page.  My only Flaw in the Slaw - is that I already thought that I had a good set - that set turned out to be damaged and I never opened the blister pack to find out until now...the now as in the exact moment I am putting my spare motor together. I usually do that "hunting" when I am in no hurry - like you never paid more than 10 or 20 bucks. And honestly - I'm not REALLY in a hurry now...well so long as my running motor doesn't fly apart. A fate I'd really rather avoid as I'd like to keep it as a spare (you jusr never know). I'll keep sifting.

Jacin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2020 at 11:04am
I'm curious about the damage to the packaged bearings. The main bearings I found have what my son informs me is tin oxide. It looks like someone faintly sprayed flat black paint from a distance and it partially hit the bearing. Most is on the back side of the bearing. I will spot remove it but feel confident that they are still suitable for use.

I'll never figure out how someone will get upset at a small scratch around the journal and yet the bearing has a 3/16" X 3/16" oil groove all around. Or they will chamfer the oil hole thus decreasing the surface in that area but then be concern about a small blemish on the bearing.  There is perfect..., and there is acceptable. On an engine that was in its originating base designed 80 years ago I'd think acceptable is better than the alternative of doing nothing.

Update: That perseverance seems to have just paid off. The cam bearings for the 63-65 engines seem rather high ($60+) compared to the earlier $20-$22 61-62 cam bearings (hope I got those years right - the ones with the larger journal). As best I was able to tell in a discussion we had when I first  signed up here the only difference between those year bearings were a hole to meter the oil to the rockers. 

I was tempted to buy the 61-62 bearings for my '64 engine and just drill the hole as there were a number on Ebay in the $20-$22 range. But I held out for MONTHS. There was a later Michigan Bearing set that was reasonable at $35 (compared to $60+) but if I could save $15 by drilling a hole I would do that. Today that seller offered those bearings at $25. For $3-$5 more and get the direct fit bearing, I was all in.

I know some may chuckle at my frugality but to me it is part of the "hunt," the "thrill of the deal" more than it is getting "what I want, when I want it." Some guy will ALWAYS be able to outspend you so why not go for bragging rights in the other direction. Wink


Edited by wittsend - Jul/15/2020 at 2:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/15/2020 at 11:57pm
Wittsend, I'm on the same page entirely. I started out fiddling with early chryslers. At the time you couldn't buy water pumps, so I learned how to rebuild them. I also installed a stainless contact point for the seal to increase the life span.  At that time you could NOT buy rod bearings for THAT motor - but I found out that some later bearings were the right size - wrong width. I made a fixture so I could chuck them in a lathe and narrow them up. On my '64 convertible I had issues with rear wheel cylinders leaking - every 2 or 3 years - they'd leak - I tried all sorts of different brands to no avail - so I sleeved them with stainless - haven't touched them since - I think that was 8 years ago. It goes on and on, but THAT's FUN for me.
  As far as my damaged bearings - they have various degrees of corrosion on the crank side of the bearing. I'd toss them in a motor that I was just trying to nurse along, but not on this particular motor/crank.
  I like a bit of a challenge, from time to time and I'm no stranger to most shop tools and I HATE over paying for stuff. You may have seen my comment about just buying the bearings from APD - I just cannot fork over 130 bucks for rod bearings - can't do it. Equally I can't fork over 60 bucks for Chi-Com ones either. I guess I'm gonna have to be patient. :-)    I see where the water pumps on these little motors are also getting ridiculous - I may have to learn where to find shafts and seals for these as well!!!!  <grin> well that is if I cant find a NOS one stashed somewhere around here.
  Knew a guy once that had a flathead V8 - he'd get 2 years outr of a water pump (car sits alot). I told him I'd put stainless in it and a modern seal - he was aghast. "it wouldn't be "correct" then. I said - who would know? His wife said "we would".  Well then rebuild a water pump every year (those flatties have two) why bi*&^ and moan about it?  My convertible is pretty stock - so I get it to a point, but there's limits too. Different strokes for different folks!!!!

Jacin


Edited by Hemirambler - Jul/16/2020 at 12:01am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wittsend Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/16/2020 at 10:53am
I hear ya. I'm still trying to find a way of getting around the $70 with tax and shipping head gasket. Disapprove

So far I've gotten old stock, brand name (Federal/Mogul, Michigan, TRW) Main, Rod, Cam bearings and Piston Rings all for under $107 including tax and shipping. I have six old cars. They each see about 200 miles a year. I can't justify a $3,000+ motor for that. Hones, reamers, lapped valves will put enough life back in the motor for my needs.

We seem to extract a similar joy out of our mindset and processes. There is just something about doing it yourself and at times doing it different that brings immense satisfaction. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/16/2020 at 1:57pm
Wittsend, Years ago I went to Carlisle swapmeet and bought a NOS (in the wrapper) hood ornament for a '66 American for 5 bucks. A great find but WRONG for my car.  When I got home my buddy asked what I was gonna do with it and I said I'm gonna sell it on Ebay.... eventually.  Why eventually?  Well my logic was the prices on those are INSANE. My plan was to PAY UP for the RIGHT one and only then I would sell the other one. Reason being I figured that one would pay for the other - regardless of the going rate.  IIRC years later I found a NOS one for $227 +shipping and I PAID UP for it. Then Immediately sold mine for $231.  So basically in my mind I paid 5 bucks for the right one - all said and done. All my buddies thought I was nuts to pay up and I should have just pocketed the money.  We justify things differently - in my mind it was a no brainer. And BTW the prices were in the $150 range when I first bought it and rose to $225-ish when I found the right one. So waiting was also a good move in my mind. The internet (Ebay) can be a good thing depending on how you use it.  But this is pretty much a one time thing - usually I am just shaking the branches to find a deal or a way to make something work.

Jacin
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