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390 w/10/1 comp & 2.080 intakes

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mobilematt View Drop Down
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    Posted: Jun/02/2020 at 8:51pm
Needed some feedback on what cam I should run in my 70 ambassador. Was thinking about the compXE 256 H, performer manifold and street demon carb. My friend Mike the Machinist said these big valves would make it scream, but I am not so sure.
I am also afraid of detonation from the crummy fuel out here in calif. He said I could run marvel mystery oil as an octane booster with reg fuel.
I plan on getting it started and setting the initial timing at 4 degrees BTDC.
Am afraid of detonating this thing to death, and I don't want to over lean either.

Any help on this matter would be appreciated.


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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2020 at 10:34pm
Moved to the engine section.........

First, OIL, any oil, even MMO, is more likely to cause detonation than prevent it. It's not an octane booster. 
More to making an engine "scream" that "big valves" - sorry, but I am not so sure I'd go by what he's saying about adding oil to the gas, etc. just based on that alone. 
You need to consider dynamic compression as well as static, quench, and other areas. 

Not sure what you mean by this - 
>>Am afraid of detonating this thing to death, and I don't want to over lean either. <<

Because LEAN causes HOT and it's more likely to detonate with over-lean mixture and higher heat caused by a lean mixture.  But the cam, valve size, intake, etc. aren't what determines if it's running lean or rich. That's your carburetor - jetting and so on. 
Run it too lean, it will run hot. 
Run it hot it's more likely to detonate. 
Octane is the RESISTANCE TO SELF IGNITION and nothing else. It's not how slow or fast it burns, it's not how rich or lean it will run. 
So if you can get 91 or 93 octane, that resists self-ignition better than say 87 or 89. 

I solved the detonation issues with my 70 Javelin 390 by replacing the radiator with one that had been COMPLETELY redone - rodded, cleaned to perfection. It never really ran all that hot "by the gauge" but obviously it was hotter than it should have been - perhaps the flow was slowed enough it developed hot spots. I also noticed that the 4300 Motorcraft carb caused less trouble than the Edelbrock carb I ran on it most of the time. (Motorcraft had superior venturi design)

There's a whole lot of forum members who live in that part of the country with the goofy gas formulations that run these engines without trouble - best to let them chime in now. 

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purple72Gremlin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2020 at 11:21pm
And run a good forged piston....the stock cast pistons would break easy 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PROSTOCKTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2020 at 1:05am
Originally posted by mobilematt mobilematt wrote:

My friend Mike the Machinist said these big valves would make it scream, but I am not so sure.
Your friend Mike is telling you wrong. The stock size valves will serve you much better with that small cam. Having big valves are great if you had a larger cubic engine and planned  to turn it over 7000 RPMS, but you're asking about a very small cam that will have quit making power by 4500 RPMS.

The key to making good useable power to is have a lot of air speed. Putting a big valve is nothing more than putting a bigger hole in the head. When you do that on the type of application your asking about all you'll do is slow down the air speed and your power output will suffer greatly.

Tom
Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods

1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car
1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2020 at 7:40am
Bigger valves shroud the valve more against the cylinder wall,
I wouldn't run larger than stock valves in a mild engine even if it was a no-cost item.
71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BassBoat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2020 at 6:23pm
I did a back to back test with big valves and porting.  Same compression, re-used cam and lifters, same 6000 shift points.  No real change to anything other than the heads.  Went from 13.10 at 105 to 12.40 at 111.  I can not tell you that the valves alone were a significant change, but I was a little surprised that I got power from the better flowing heads without increasing the rpm range.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garland performce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2020 at 8:40pm
a good valve size for a mild build like this would be a 2.055 increase in flow with out shrouding
also cut the chambers around the valves will increase low lift flow numbers
also stepping up cam a little will bleed of some low rpm cyl pressure 
and keep piston to head clearance to .040
If you need some help give me a call at the shop
816-547-5695 John Garland owner of Garland Performance
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calamx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote calamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/03/2020 at 8:47pm
Bill talked about our goofy gas we have here in Ca. It has been our experience that when retuning a carb with a dino and O2 sensor we have had to richen them up somewhere around 8 to 10% because of the gas. The engines run good they just need more gas
69amx
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