Garryjav coil spring tool

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   I agree with Billd and was thinking of tweaking the tool a bit. The washer worked fine so it can stay but instead of a threaded pipe nipple I would cut down a piece of pipe and use it because the threading compromised the strength of the pipe and an extra support on top of the nut at the top plate would not hurt although it is welded everywhere but the top so I think it is fine but overkill never hurt in my book. Lowering the brackets down some could work but not much because of the amount the spring needs to be compressed to get these out you may run into a bind issue but I think it could safely be moved an inch or maybe two and still work well. I left them higher up to make sure I had the travel to compress all the way. Not bad for the first prototype though it works like a spring compressor should. 

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jcisworthy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 544	Post Options Post Reply Quote jcisworthy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 5:27am
	I agree with Billd and was thinking of tweaking the tool a bit. The washer worked fine so it can stay but instead of a threaded pipe nipple I would cut down a piece of pipe and use it because the threading compromised the strength of the pipe and an extra support on top of the nut at the top plate would not hurt although it is welded everywhere but the top so I think it is fine but overkill never hurt in my book. Lowering the brackets down some could work but not much because of the amount the spring needs to be compressed to get these out you may run into a bind issue but I think it could safely be moved an inch or maybe two and still work well. I left them higher up to make sure I had the travel to compress all the way. Not bad for the first prototype though it works like a spring compressor should.

jcisworthy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 544	Post Options Post Reply Quote jcisworthy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 6:16am
	One last thing I thought of. If you make a version of this use thread lock on the rod into the nut end. When I was loosening up the nut I noticed more than once that the threaded rod was loosening up with it some but not a lot. If it were to spin out with pressure on it it would not be good. A generous amount of thread lock should do the trick and keep an eye on it.

jcisworthy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 544	Post Options Post Reply Quote jcisworthy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 6:20am
	Looking at my pictures, I think the top bracket could be moved as much as needed. The compression required still left a good 4-5 inches of travel.

jcisworthy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 544	Post Options Post Reply Quote jcisworthy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 6:55am
	Looked at the nut and doubling up with an extra piece of flat stock not used from the Garry tool will work perfect for extra support.

jcisworthy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/23/2009 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 544	Post Options Post Reply Quote jcisworthy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 7:00am
	Moving the top bracket down will also require getting the car quite high in the air to operate the tool effectively, with a tie rod socket anyway, but that is what jacks and lifts are for lol. An 1 1/8" open ended wrench can be used also to get around that but will be much slower.

Chisam Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Jun/14/2010 Location: PA. - Europe Status: Offline Points: 180	Post Options Post Reply Quote Chisam Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 8:44am
	This is the tool I made to use on our cars and it works very good. You can put the spring in and take it out of the car with no problem and you can remove the spring from the tool and put it back in without any problems and rods will hook up at the top of the spring without any problem. It is made after the factory one with just the rod change and the rods are bigger than a spring tool from the Auto Parts and the bottom part is made the same thickness of steel as the factory one, only stainless steel, for those of you who want to make a coment about how strong it is or isn't.
	1968 AMX 390 4SP

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7102	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 12:15pm
	Dan, putting the spring back in isn't a problem at all. Same as taking it out - put spring in place, push down on fender a bit, and the lower hooks usually fall right out. All this is assuming the engine and trans are in the car. JC's or Chisam's tools would be required if there was not enough weight in the front of the car. I just remove the suspension before taking the motor and trans out, or wait until they are back in before working on the suspension. It's too easy to put the spring under the car to get the "hooks" off an back on to mess with a screw type compressor to me, but the engine and trans still has to be in the car for the weight. That or get 3 hefty friends to stand in the engine bay... I don't think three big guys would fit very well though... ;>
	Frank Swygert American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com

amx39068 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Feb/21/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 10034	Post Options Post Reply Quote amx39068 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 12:43pm
	Frank, your springs must be a heck of a lot softer than mine as there is no way in heck the tool will come off without jacking up the back of the opposite rear side of the car by at least 12 inches. I suspect we are talking about the difference between 6 cylinder and V-8 heavy duty suspension here.
	Dan Curtis, AZ AMC collector quality Restorations, Parts & Engines - amcmusclecars.com

69 ambassador 390 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/22/2009 Location: Grand canyon Status: Offline Points: 2604	Post Options Post Reply Quote 69 ambassador 390 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 12:50pm
	Dan, Try the tools I made for you. They are a little longer than stock and should come out easy. I don't remember if I double drilled them for the small cars though, so I may be wrong. I guess I'm gettoing old.
	Steve Brown Grand Canyon, Az. 69 Ambassador sst 390 84 Grand Wagoneer 69 Cougar XR7 65 Fairlaine 500XL 79 F-350 Super Camper Special

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7102	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/01/2012 at 1:04pm
	That's possible Dan. I've installed HD six springs with mine, but nothing but standard V-8.
	Frank Swygert American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com