Garryjav coil spring tool

 

I'd use steel pipe stock rather than threaded nipples for increased strength, and better welds.

I'd add bearings where the washers are between the nuts and pipe.

I'd strengthen the top nut area - that's a lot of stress where there's only the thickness of a nut, so the weld is but, what, a half inch? Perhaps a piece on top of the nut like a small strut - weld to the top of the nut, then to the "compressor". (a quick simple piece to weld in place)

the concept is very good, the photos make it self-explanatory.

In fact, all of the ideas for compressing in this thread show good ideas.

 

I've never had to use such means - but they all appear to serve the purpose for those who have found themselves in a situation..........

Remember, when you remove the spring you eventually have to put the original spring or its replacement back in and once in you still have to compress the spring enough to remove the tool!

 

What's the BS?

Garry doesn't make these as shown. He certainly doesn't supply the means to compress springs to remove them from his tools, or put them into his tools.

 

A. His tools as supplied won't compress the spring  - in a car where the engine or drivetrain is removed, there's not enough weight on the front end even with the opposite rear corner raised, to hook into the spring with the stock tools - or Garry's. (I've done some Ramblers where even with a rear corner raised, the boss had to lean on the fender so I could get the holders into place)

 

B. The device shown will cover compressing the spring where they are being replaced - his tools only cover removing, holding, then putting back the same spring - if you are replacing, you need a means to compress that is safe. Garry's tools are simply replacements for the Kent-Moore/factory holders. Not compressors.

 

C. Many folks here don't have a press, and if they do, it's probably a Harbor Freight small unit ..... even with a press, there's a small risk if one is not familiar with the procedures - the pics here show how to do it in a relative safe mannor - further, the modified tool from Garry does it all - compresses the spring in a car with no engine weight, and/or allowed replacement of a spring where one doesn't have a press or other safe means to compress the new spring to install it, his tool does not provide for removing the spring in event the same spring is not going in.

 

They need a way to handle spring replacement - not as common as rebuilding front suspension or removing a spring simply to replace a bushing or ball joint, but still needs to be done.

These are good, and even creative, means of doing so.

 

These can also be made or modified in a short time - an hour, maybe two, where otherwise one may end up waiting for a tool to be delivered - once the message got through that one was needed. (then we get back to the bit of his tools as supplied not allowing for easy spring removal from the tool, or putting a replacement into the tool) One does what one needs to do when you have a project going, and maybe not the time to wait. I happen to have all the parts on hand in my garages to make or modify such a tool, so I'd be able to complete the job without leaving home, or waiting for an order to arrive.

 

 

I also see every attempt to cover safety factors. I've already mentioned ways I'd make it even "tougher" or safer, but it's obvious, they already know the issues at hand. But I see no BS. 

 

Been doing Rambler front ends for 40 years - these are some of the more creative means I've seen for dealing with the Rambler suspension/springs.

 

Don't give up, fellows - I'm still using the engine hoist and engine stand I made roughly 27 years ago, as well as the door holding jig,  bearing presses, jack stands, and dozens of other tools and pieces of equipment, large and small, I made over the years. It may or may not be cheaper, but it's often faster, and there's something to be said for the pride in making the tool that helps you succeed.