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Fuel tank sender that works? |
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Perrybones
AMC Nut Joined: Oct/05/2008 Location: Freehold NJ Status: Offline Points: 274 |
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Posted: Jun/21/2019 at 8:45pm |
I have a 70 Jav SST, a 69 AMX and a 73 AMX. The 69 probably has the original fuel tank sending unit in it since its all original and low mileage, that one works OK. The 70 has one of the aftermarket units that works horribly (after fill up goes to 3/4 mark for a little bit, then it races through the middle levels then sits at 1/4 for most of its life) The 73 also only goes to 3/4 mark and runs out at just below a 1/4 tank. I have good grounds and have tested the dash gauges with variable resister pots all good. Is there a better aftermarket unit that anyone has used successfully? I am getting tired of thinking the fuel is low and getting a gasoline bath with these lousy new gas pumps.
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Perry 70 Javelin SST 390, 69 AMX 343, 73 AMX 360, 67 Rebel SST Conv and 92 Corvette Conv. (modern muscle to keep wife happy).
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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All reproductions need the float arm adjusted. There will be some variance, but accuracy will be off by a few gallons. Even with stock the accuracy was off on my 73 and 71. To recall, I could still run on E, but that was less than a 1/2 gallon a best in my tank. I did not chance it with the 71, though I did note I had 4 gallons left before empting the tank when dropped, with gauge reading just a needle width below 1/4 tank.
Both senders were oem... and allowed needle to be solidly on F when filled. Hope that helps for your adjustments. Edited by 304-dude - Jun/21/2019 at 9:13pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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That's interesting because that's how my original sending unit works in the 70. My 73 even after gauge and cluster replacement still tops out full at 3/4 on the gauge and spends a ton of time at the quarter mark. And it's not a replacement. The 70 tank has been off, cleaned, all connections checked and cleaned up........ so it must be a cluster issue. The 73 - well, who the heck knows because the previous owner was a wiring guru - he was great at hacking, cutting, splicing by twisting, and leaving things out. |
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Perrybones
AMC Nut Joined: Oct/05/2008 Location: Freehold NJ Status: Offline Points: 274 |
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I was hoping someone had experience with the new ultrasonic aftermarket types or one of the "high end" custom aftermarket units you can find in web searches. Nothing like the new car gauges that are accurate to the ounce!
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Perry 70 Javelin SST 390, 69 AMX 343, 73 AMX 360, 67 Rebel SST Conv and 92 Corvette Conv. (modern muscle to keep wife happy).
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Would be interesting to see how that could be tied to the AMC fuel gauge in the cluster - most of us don't want to hack up the cluster to change gauges, but if an accurate SENDING UNIT could be found, we'd take notice. My Eagle gauge is actually quite accurate, but then AMC changed to the magnetic type gauge before Eagle came out so they did a better job as long as your wiring was good. And - no regulation needed for them like the early gauges.
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Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4827 |
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One of those won't do much good hooked to a 50 year old gauge and CVR. I spent 2 hours getting the aftermarket sending unit "calibrated" to the gauge and tank so it reads right. I had to shorten the arm and bend the stop tabs so the arm didn't travel outside the ohms rating for the gauge. It was worth it because it does work pretty good now. When my gauge reads empty, I have about 2 - 3 gallons of fuel left and that's where I wanted it to be.
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"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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OK, Mopar_guy - I'll send you a couple of tanks and sending units and clusters to get things all calibrated. Or maybe just drop my cars off some day.
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Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4827 |
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I did this back when I swapped the Magnum engine in and used an AMC1 tank with a Javelin level unit I bought (all stainless from eBag) the ohms
range was 12 to 85 ohms instead of 12 to 60 ohms that the gauge is
calibrated too. I shortened up the range of travel to fix that problem
but it still wasn't right. I figured out that the float arm was to long
so I shortened it by 2" and it reads right now. Anybody that puts
in an Spectra AMC1 tank, they don't make a sending unit for it so you
have to use a Javelin sending unit and recalibrate it to read properly but the same holds true for any of the new sending units out there.
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"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Just my thoughts to add in helping others with calibration... i removed the original wire wound resistance board, cleaned it up carefully, as the wire is tightly wound in a smooth progressive way. Too much pressure will make each winding off and bunch them to tight against each other. Used gas resistant gasket adhesive to secure the windings to the edges of the board, so any long term action with the wiper arm will not distrurb the accuracy set in the windings. I noted by the wear pattern on the wire, that the wiper arm travel does not go all the way from one end to the other, so with old board replacing the one in the new replacement sender, you can match how far the arm travels by checking how the pickup slides along the wear pattern. Once the tabs are adjusted, you can flip the board over an use the unused bwck side of the board as to be a good as new. Once i get around to the sender and tank setups, i can post how to adjust the arm, but it will be based on the original factory resistance board, not the out of spec resistance board on the aftermarket senders. I can post my resistance board images of the wear patern with measured length for reference. This way some who will be adjusting the stop tabs and adjustments to carefully shift the resistance wire windings, to at least get the wiper action in the ball park with resistance set closure to factory specs. Here are the images for reference. Notice the shadowy mark on the first image... that is the mark left from years of rubbing under travel, on the pickup arm. Second image has my addition of the blue line under the mark to assist in locating start and end points of travel. The length is 15mm of travel in a slight arc. Bottom image is the reverse side, it just so happens that the original side had a lamination bubble, that may effect how the pickup on the arm reacts to reading resistance. Edited by 304-dude - Jun/22/2019 at 6:01am |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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