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Fuel Mileage?

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Poll Question: Whats you mileage with an Inliner?
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Thikstik View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/04/2012 at 5:01pm
The drums, shells, gears which are the rotating mass are the same, except ft drum is a tiny bit bigger to hold the extra clutches. The low gearset has 4 pinions vs 3 which is alittle heavier.    I run that ft drum in mine.  I ran the low gearset and will never know what it did for et because i never could hook.  It may have been hurting time due to the 1-2 gear split, or maybe helped off the line only to give it back at the 330ft mark. Now im back to regular gear set and like it also.  Im sure the 2:21 rear axle cars of the 80's sure needed that low gear set.  With the comiing gas prices, I may wish for all that 80's gearing. 
75 gremlin x, jeep 4L headed 258,Clifford cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shaggimo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/05/2012 at 8:44am
Originally posted by Thikstik Thikstik wrote:

So if your running an 800 it'd even be a tiny bit crisper with a 750.  Re ultimate cfm usage, i hear ya.  I wonder how much your 6 is pulling open the air flaps.  
 
Re adapting a qjet to clif intake, i pulled my carb and adaptor to mock things up as i found a Mr Gasket qjet to holley adaptor laying around.    I used a qjet gasket to mock a qjet base and it wasnt pretty...the air flow from the qjet would have to sit oblong over the 4 holes and it looks to be a strong flow killer.  Actually  it would create some terrible turbulence. But, i think the cliff adaptor could be traced out and opened up to meet the bigger qjet pattern and work.  I should upload a pic.  The stack up of 2 spacers may be a foul ball also...dont know.  It actually could help tork.  Shaggimo, have you seen how bizarre the air flow has to be going from the qjet into the 4 bores?   I know that the Offy has the 4 bores cast into many.    
 
It would be neat to put a little spy camera in my air cleaner to watch the air valve in action. Hard to say how far the actually open, short of taking off my hood and air cleaner, that little camera would be the olny way I can think of doing that,  LOL . The flow does concern be a bit, my adapter, probably the same one you have, is open in the center, I'm sure it's causing a little havok before entering the intake. The edelbrock adapter I saw at the parts store is a much nicer piece, it's a 4 hole unit, I would think it would direct athe air/fuel down the intake much better. Problem is, it's intended for adapting a spread manifold to a sqaure carb. I'll have to bring a qjet with me to the store to see if it would even work properly and not bind the secondaries.
 
To stay on topic a little, lol, the best milage I've seen with the sx/4 is about 24mpg hwy, that's a de-emissioned stock non feedback BBD, Motocraft/HEI cross breed, 4 speed, 2.73's. So far in the Jeep the best I've seen has been about 20mpg hwy, there will be more to gain once I get the lock up working, and get it tuned in the rest of the way (the jeep was a rushed build).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/19/2012 at 8:31pm
Last two tanks in my SX/4 averaged 24mpg.
That's mostly commuting, some highway, about 2/3-3/4 commuting to work, stop and go, max 45, typical 35mph.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2012 at 8:03pm
HA! This last month or so I've got my little car (195.6 OHV powered American with twin stick) all dialed in and tweaked to perfection after putting the EDIS ignition in and fixing some gremlins (the bad kind, not the good Gremlins :-) and driving it hard like a madman I got... 18MPG! Lowest I ever got! Driving a lot without OD engaged, revs up to 4000 - 4500 (lordy does it get loud at such breakneck speeds).

It ain't broke, I blame the driver. Couldn't and didn't keep my foot out of it!

This fillup, I'm driving like grandma, keeping vacuum high and revs low, OD in as much as possible. It ought to fall back to 24+. We'll see.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocCreer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2012 at 2:25pm
Ok so i just replaced my Crappy Duraspark Module with a MSD 6a,will this help MPG any?
69 440 sedan (totalled,junked)
69 440 wagon (sold to forum member.
73 Waggie (Gone)
78 Plymouth Volare Wagon 225,auto,(daily driver)
61 American Super(The Last Amc)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2012 at 2:45pm
DC,  Your main need is for good tuning of the carb mixture, base timing/ mechanical and vac advance.  A stock motor doesnt need a hotter ignition setup.  It wont hurt of course.  Being rid of points is the biggest ign upgrade youll HAVE to have and you already have that.  You may also want to go to a taller rear tire, but that will hurt take-off  alittle.
75 gremlin x, jeep 4L headed 258,Clifford cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DocCreer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2012 at 3:19pm
Ok wats the best way to tune the carb?and vacc advance,i already tried lighter springs in my duraspark dizzy,and it just made it worse,i alread have taller rear tires.it runs well I'm just wondering if I'm overlooking things.

69 232 Borg Warner Tranny
Carter RBS 1bbl Carb
1983 Eagle Duraspark Dizzy with Big Cap
Accel 140001 Canister SuperCoil
Msd 6a CD Ignition
Taller Rear tires
Mr.gasket electric fuel pump


Edited by DocCreer - May/18/2012 at 3:20pm
69 440 sedan (totalled,junked)
69 440 wagon (sold to forum member.
73 Waggie (Gone)
78 Plymouth Volare Wagon 225,auto,(daily driver)
61 American Super(The Last Amc)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2012 at 5:08pm
If the Duraspark module was on the way out the MSD might improve mileage.
The only thing you can do is make sure the carb is in top shape and settings are right. You should be getting around 20-22 mpg on the highway (cruising 60-65) and 16-18 around town. A lot of that depends on how you drive. If you're cruising over 65-70 on the interstate all the time you will be lucky to get 18 or so on the highway. You're pushing a brick through the air, and power requirements start to go up considerably over 65 mph. That's about the speed at which aerodynamic efficiency starts to make a huge difference -- and there's just nothing you can do about that. You can do a few things to make a minor improvement, but not much.
Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine
www.amc-mag.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/19/2012 at 12:58am
If your taller rear tires are taller than the car was origionally made with ,  then you really don't know what MPG you're getting.  Because you speedometer and odometer is no longer reading correct.
 
  Both will be reading less than what you're actually going.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2012 at 1:30pm
Originally posted by DocCreer DocCreer wrote:

Ok so i just replaced my Crappy Duraspark Module with a MSD 6a,will this help MPG any?


Dude you keep barking up the wrong trees. Remember we covered all this waaaay back, NO, forget any ignition changes if you have already removed the points and gone electronic. There's nothing you can bolt on (except my uncle Vito's long-lost 150 mpg magic carb the oil companies and governement tried to get away from him. I think he's still on the run - Mr. Finch is helping him out now)

Please go back and re-read - same rules apply today as last month or last year. I know you choose to not believe and want that magic pill, but once you reach a certain place, there's nothing simple left.
The "hotter spark" is all in the marketing - remember we said the engine will only call for 50K if that's all it needs, even if the ignition could possible supply 250KV? It ain't gonna help moving from a good stock coil to a super hot, guaranteed to make you win every race chrome plated gold sealed Indy coil It's marketing hype.

Taller tires MAY REDUCE your MPG! A few folks have found that out when they thought, gee, I'd be going faster, the engine would be going slower and .... instant MPG, right?
Wrong.  Unless the current tires are "too small", going bigger can be a step backwards. It's especially true on smaller engines. If that engine is slowed down a bit while the car is going 65, it may be working HARDER to push the car, and working harder at a low RPM means you have to open the throttle more.. and you are out of the peak or most efficient RPM range for MPG.
Look at it this way - you have a bike with 10 speeds or gears. You hit a hill and work up a good sweat and can just keep your breath, but it's working out ok. Now next time you hit that hill, you shift UP a gear, and suddenly your legs cramp, you can't catch your breath, and you slow down as you just don't have the power to keep up the speed on that hill any more. You've lost mechanical advantage and have to work harder.

Again, I know I'll get slammed like I was in the past - stop looking so hard for that magic pill and believing all you read on the web.
Taller tires MAY work, but MAY take you backwards - if the engine has to be running slower to push that brick through the air at 65 and is now suddenly below the most efficient power band, you lose.
"hotter coils" and racing ignition won't help - not if what you have is working correctly, and it's already getting all the spark it needs. Any more "capacity" is wasted. The engine won't call for it unless the engine is physically in bad shape, or your current ignition is bad.

If you do by chance see a change, it's either due to some other change that happened during the swap, or the other ignition was bad/had issues, or the engine is really worn out and needs a super hot spark just to fire under abnormally bad conditions.
(but next month I expect a similar question will be asked about the latest ignition system advertising guaranteed results and 150,000 volts through 15mm wires.)

IMO, you've hit the end of the line, and asking the same question over each month won't change the answers you get.
If you want different answers, you need different questions.....

OK, I'm prepared for all the flames and nasties I'll get for being so harsh - but if anyone would just do a search for posts on these exact same questions - you'd see we've been this road several times. 
Being a Monday won't change the answers as "cap'n, you cannot change the laws of physics"

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