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fuel economy for 258

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 6:30am
Well, a T-5 swap would be easier to find parts for. Same for six or V-8 (V-8 swap uses six bell).
But it does sound like you have tuning issues, especially with the carb. You should be able to easily get 15-16 mpg, which in your case would be a big improvement.

IMHO the exhaust is way too big for 258 inches, but that shouldn't affect the gas mileage that much. You could try restricting it with something like a 1.5"-1.75" exhaust tip in each pipe. I don't know how much that will affect gas mileage, but should improve cylinder scavenging (you need a bit of back pressure for that at low speeds!) and may improve low speed torque.  A 2.25" single is all I'd recommend on a 258, with 2.25" duals on a healthy street 360-401. Big exhaust really only helps on drag racers that need to breathe well over 4000 rpm. Street cars seldom see over 4000 (actually more like 3000...), and don't benefit from big exhaust systems.

Your carb choice is pretty good, going to a 2V shouldn't help -- once the carb is tuned for the engine.  You're only running on half that carb 75% of the time after all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 8:01am
I had dual exhaust on my 69,  but they were 2 stock pipes running back side by side. 
1 3/4 inch I think. 
 At first with a Austin Healey 3000 dual in, dual out, muffler, and later with 2 stock mufflers turned up sideways where the stock muffler would be flat.

And I agree,  going to a 2bbl isn't going to solve or help the mileage issue,  unless something is radically wrong with that Holley 390.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 9:13am
Originally posted by jdarosa jdarosa wrote:

Good to hear on the automatic. I drive it like an old man, so it's not from my foot. 

I'll mess with the timing and get it tuned, and check for fuel leaks...I'd hope to get some mileage out of it before the big job of swapping in a 4 speed...oh lord.

As far as the converter, it's non-locking and whatever the stock one would be for an 83 Concord.

Thanks everyone
Well i'm a old man for sure, i'll soon be 70, but I didn't realize we all drove alike.

But after being around circle track racers for over 25 years,  and instructing more than 10 good enough for them to get their first wins,  I know it's usually a waste of breath to suggest to someone they might be driving the car wrong.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 12:16pm
Not sure what you mean by a puking power valve DaemonForce, but it does diesel occasionally after I shut off the car. I changed out the power valve for one size larger (I can't remember the size, but it was one step up) and that helped some. There aren't any vacuum leaks; it was pulling in acceptable ranges when I replaced the vacuum wiper motor. 

The motor was a rebuilt long block, so I'm not sure on the cam's centering. I do want to adjust the exhaust tube size, which will be after the rear springs are replaced and the mpg issue is fixed!
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaemonForce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 2:01pm
It's probably better that you don't know. After another guy that had issues with fuel shooting straight up out of the carb, I think you'd know what a "puking" power valve looks like. You would ultimately have an extremely rich run or otherwise completely flooded engine. Dieseling would be the least of problems there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 3:50pm
What changed when you changed the power valve ?   Dieseling ?  Economy ?

If your old power valve was causing dieseling,  then it was defective,  not necessarily the wrong size.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 4:00pm
Have you checked out Ollie's American build thread??? 21 MPG on the highway, similar engine build. http://theamcforum.com/forum/ollies-66-american-convertible_topic70568_page1.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 5:33pm
Thanks Scott! I'm on it.

Tyrod, the dieseling was mitigated a little bit with the swap. The economy is still sh*t. 

You ran a 258/4 spd in your '69...was it you who said your wife used to have a Spirit or Concord daily driver with a similar setup?
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 6:47pm
One trick is to put a vacuum gauge in the car. and drive with the vacuum as high as possible.  Hook it up to manifold vacuum.   but if your cam doesnt let the vacuum be at least 18-20 idling, its going to be hard to drive the car with a gauge.  I did it in a chevy truck.  went from 9 to 12. but the cam killed low end, and the truck had bigger tires than stock.  and the carburator was not up to par either.    I have a stock 74 Gremlin with a 258 3spd.  Ive never really checked the gas mileage, but it gets about 16-19.  and I drive slow and not over 65.  your foot can really affect mileage too ..................... your automatic doesnt help mileage, but I believe with tuning, you can improve it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/25/2016 at 8:03pm
I say again,  if your old power valve was causing it to diesel at all,  or made it worse,  then it was defective,  not neccessarily the wrong size.  '
A good power valve has no effect on a engine at low rpm and high vacuum, unless it's blown, jammed open.

If it's running on after shut down there's several things that can cause it,  too high a idle speed, throttle valve not closing, cam or spark timing off, and more.   Those problems with a blown power valve can get into pretty serious running on,  and replacing the bad power valve with a working one will decrease the running on but not stop it, but going to a different ( different, instead of one that opens at the same vacuum setting) power valve may have made your mileage even worse.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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