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Front brakes won't release

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rbbruno3 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 5:00pm
73 amx just took it out for its maiden voyage. The brakes got hot and stayed on . (Both sides) cracked a bleeder and they both loosened up stepped on the paddle again and they locked again. Disc brakes on the front drum on the back all new lines( hard and rubber ),master cylinder . never drove the car before it was restored so don't know its history. Any suggestions ? P/valve? Wrong master? Rod to long? Do you have to bleed them with the metering valve and pulled out. Thanks guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 5:32pm
Does the pedal return after being pumped?

If the master cylinder return spring fails the pedal will stay low.

Some have had the vacuum booster go bad, and lock up the brakes.

Since you noted that cracking the bleed valves loosened the calipers, the calipers are not the problem.
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rbbruno3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbbruno3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 9:26pm
The pedal is hard , not much travel. No booster. Tried to pull the pedal back by hand , that didn't free them up . Going to unhook the pedal and try to pull the rod out see if that works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyleonard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 10:52pm
Obviously you need some free play between the pedal/pushrod and the piston. If the piston can't make it back to its stop, pressure will never be released and it will continue building. And do what it's doing.

Is the locknut loose on the pushrod? Has the pedal bracket moved? Pushrod too long will do it too. Go there first.

If the rubber lines were old, I'd say they had deteriorated inside and were accepting pressure from the pedal but constricted and won't let it back under lesser pressure. But new lines???

If the calipers go on and then bleed down with the nipples, they're probably fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fluffy73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 11:36pm
Do you have the proper master cylinder on the car?

I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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rbbruno3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbbruno3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 6:45am
Originally posted by Fluffy73 Fluffy73 wrote:

Do you have the proper master cylinder on the car?



not sure. I got a new ,not reman. It's supposed to be the right one and did fit so not sure. Still not sure about the bleeding . In the TSM it says to hold that metering valve open. I didn't , just did it with a person pumping and opening each bleeder one at a time

Edited by rbbruno3 - Aug/26/2017 at 6:49am
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limachine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote limachine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 8:08am
Easiest thing I find when dealing with a problem like this is to loosen the master cylinder nuts while the pedal is stuck. You can back off the nuts just enough to release the brakes and measure between the master & firewall to see how much clearance you need. Remember, your application could require additional clearance of as much as 1/4 inch! I always add 1/8" additional clearance on top of what I measured and go from there. If you take all the play out, when your brakes get hot the master will drag or lock the brakes from expansion. So when you get it free (if that's the issue) get the brakes hot and then check the master again. 
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rbbruno3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rbbruno3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 1:16pm
I just back the master cylinder bolts out there is no play in the rod at all. The brakes won't release. I actually tried to put shims behind the master cylinder yesterday to extend the rod.. The only way they will release is to crack a bleeder or a line . I'm scratching my head I appreciate your input thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 1:48pm
While the brakes are hanging up, loosen up the lines at the master cylinder and see if they back off. Check both the front and the rear to see if both are affected. If they release, the master is the culprit. I'm on my second new Raybestos master cylinder and both hang up after they've had fluid in them. It acts like the seals are junk and are swelling up causing the piston not to return. I caught this while bench bleeding the first one and now the replacement is doing it as well.  Angry Just because parts are new doesn't mean they're good! Angry

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 2:17pm
Front brake hoses breaking down internally will allow fluid to flow TO the calipers/drums, but will restrict flow back to the master cylinder.

I work with old ['50-'52] International pickups.  I know of such problems.

Your initial post says all new lines. I say, "Hmmmmmmm...."

Brainstorm it.  What could be causing fluid to flow TO the calipers but not return?


Edited by Buzzman72 - Aug/26/2017 at 2:21pm
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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