A833 in a '64 american?

To put a 199/232/258 in a 64-65 American:

1. Move the radiator forward. Do this by taking it to a shop and having the side mounts flipped by moving from side to side (left on right, etc.). Then just reinstall the radiator. There is a cover plate that goes on the top support between the hood latch and radiator that has to be removed.

2. Get a 65 American 232 or a 71-86 CJ-5 (NOT CJ-7!!) water pump. You will also need the water pump pulley, which will be harder to find. You might be able to find a suitable depth and diameter pulley from a salvage yard from some other make and model. Diameter can vary some, just has to be close. Depth has to be correct for the V-belt to stay on though. You could use longer bolts and spacers to align a flatter pulley. Heck, the 196 water pump pulley might work, I haven't tried, but it should be close.

3. Use the newer six motor mounts with 10 or 11 gauge 2"x3" rectangular tubing between the crossmember and engine. The tubing needs to be about 4-5" long. Drill the tubing to fit the motor mounts and bolt on, with the tubing parallel to the crossmember, the lower edge even with the rubber mounts. Then lower the engine in place and mark where the holes in the crossmember for the original 196 mounts hit the tubing. drill and tap for a 3/8" FINE THREAD bolt. Use a lock washer and lock-tite on the bolt. 10 or 11 gauge is ~1/8" thick, just enough for fine threads, not enough for coarse threads. If you prefer weld a piece of 1/4" or 1/8" plate inside the tubing for a bit more grip, but I've run a 4.6L stroker like this with no issues for many years, currently have my hopped up 4.0L installed this way. You should have about 1/4" between crossmember and oil pan. If not, you can shim the tubing pieces up with plates or fender washers between the tubing and CM. I wouldn't use regular washers due to the smaller area.

The electric water pump idea is a good one, and Tom has proven it in use. This isn't a standard water pump turned by an electric motor like the drag racers use, but a complete replacement. Good enough for a BMW factory install, good enough for anything! Then you just run a short belt from the crank to the alternator. If running more than just an alternator things would be a bit more complicated, and you might need an idler mounted on the water pump block-off plate.

Any trans that was used on a 4.0L will bolt right up to a 72 or later 232/258. That leaves the 64-71 199/232 (and 71 only 258) out.

I don't know if the A833 was used in any Jeeps though.I can't find a reference listing it. The only four speeds that come up are the  T18, T176/177/178, SR4 (only 80-82 in the CJ), and T4 (successor to the SR4, a bit stronger). A list is here:

You will find some five speeds also. The BA10/5 is fine for a car, but wasn't strong enough for a 4.0L off roading a bit. That's why Jeepers deride it, but I've known a couple people with street vehicles that never had a problem with it at all, at least one with well over 100K on it. Never driven real hard though, in a Comanche used to pull a john boat and light hauling. The AX15 is the strongest, but hard to find as Jeepers like it. Best bet is a early Fox body Mustang T-5.