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Pacer Spindles for Racers?

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/03/2019 at 2:47pm
That's over simplified though. Whether the arms are angled out or in is mostly due to the position of the rack or steering box. With the rack in front the arms will be out some, so will normal steering arms.

Rack arms aren't out as much because they are generally shorter to make up for the more limited left and right movement of the rack, so they don't APPEAR to be angled out much, but in reality are angled the same as a regular steering box arm would be. If you have a rear steer rack, or steering box, the arms will be angled IN for the correct Ackerman Angle. The illustration below shows a rear steer chassis. A front steer has to have the tierod ends OUT, following the same lines through the ball joints. Doesn't matter what kind of steering system is used. With a steering box the length of the pitman arm is also taken into affect. It's usually the same length as the steering arms -- the idler arm also. Just a few more parts than a rack and pinion setup.

We are in agreement though -- the rack should be as close to straight across when the wheels are forward -- assuming the steering arms are the correct length. If you're using a kit or the arms from a rack setup suspension they will be close -- hence why I used Pacer arms and they are "close enough" on my Classic (I was given that hint from someone on here who used Pacer arms on a Javelin for a home made rack conversion). A little set back or forward won't affect things enough to notice, but I'm talking about only 1/4" forward or back though. Much more than that and it might be noticeable. Depends on the car and the driver.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/03/2019 at 9:20pm
Frank is making a fine point here... and there's a good description and drawings of Ackerman on wikipedia...



1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 4:04am
Brad, here is what I found compared to the arms on my 1964 Rambler Classic.
Apparently the steering arms are all the same for all years but maybe you can shine some light on this as you most likely have the parts in front of you since you are tackling the same project.
Might as well just do it in picture form.






Steering stop doesn't line up but can weld a tab no dramas.


In summary: For Racers: Yes......For public road drivers: No.

I can't get my head around it but it makes sense that I end up with Anti-Ackerman steering here.

I checked by making a dummy linkage also as the rack is -slightly- (1.25"!!!) forward of where it should be, but my measurements showed the outside wheel turning sharper than the inside.

I spent the afternoon messing around with it. I understand the science behind it, and will probably chalk it up as a loss and make my own arms out of solid.

If someone can actually confirm that all the steering arms are the same length power/manual throughout all years post 1963 I would appreciate it as I don't need the full 1.25" difference in pivot. 3/4 will get me where I want to be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 5:13am
Lucas660, as long as the tie rod end to the steering arm is outside of the steering knuckle vertical center by 1/2" to 3/4" there will be Ackerman angle. I assumed that the angle of the arm would be a good indication, but it is possible (not having my original components any more) that the arm mounting on the upright may fit towards the wheel than behind or at the knuckle vertical center line.

Some older pre 80's cars can't have proper steering arm locations with racks, because of wheel and brake systems interference. And for anti-Ackerman angle, there are references on old school theory, which seems to work, but in some ways it's an engineering challange to find the best method that works, when looking a which route is available when obstacles become a challenge.

It would be interesting to see an oem Pacer arm compared to the Argo.



Edited by 304-dude - Nov/05/2019 at 5:23am
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 6:06am
With the OEM Pacer arms on my 63 there is less Ackerman than the arms I had fabricated. In fact, it appears that the wheels are turned about the SAME angle at full lock. I've experienced no adverse effects from this, and have driven the car on a four hour road trip. I've got power steering, so that may help in parking lots. I can hear a little scrub (with windows down) in a parking lot, but just a bit, and only after about 45 degrees or more. Driving down the road there isn't a difference, but you're turning less than 45 degrees unless turning into a driveway, so there shouldn't be. The outside tire may indeed be turning a little sharper than the inside, it's hard to tell, but it's close enough not to be a big issue.

My fabbed arms weren't strong enough. They were made from thin wall 1" square tubing with a 1/8" thick reinforcement welded to one side. You have to notch the tubing to fit around the steering knuckle -- that or space it back further and change the angle of the arm... I notched. They worked just fine from 2003-2018!! I had an issue where I had a weld that didn't penetrate well and broke loose after a couple years when I bumped a curb a bit hard, but that wasn't a material fault -- just a faulty weld where I welded premade tie-rod end bungs on (rather than buy a reamer -- Speedway Motors has them). The bungs are solid, harder to penetrate them and not burn up the thinner portion of the arms. A piece of solid 1" square would be better. I don't think you can get a thick walled 1" tubing.

What bent one in 2018 was coming OFF a curb!! It was a tall curb, I knew I was going to hit it, so I just eased up on and off. Just hit it with the right tire. went up on it with no problem, but coming off the height and angle combined put enough pressure on the REAR of the tire that it pushed the rear of the tire IN, which put pressure against the arm at that notch and it bent (at the notch)!! No in a million years would I have expected it to bend coming OFF a curb!! Just the right conditions. If there's a one in a million chance of something it's all good... until YOU'RE THE ONE!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 6:10am
It might be hard to see in the picture but the AMC arm is offset, the ARGO arm is perfectly straight.
I am thinking of ways to fix this, either heat and press or mill and re-bore the holes.
I think I need to go back to my concepts at the start of my build and make a mock up with the front wheels unloaded to figure out how to achieve the correct angles.


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

Lucas660, as long as the tie rod end to the steering arm is outside of the steering knuckle vertical center by 1/2" to 3/4" there will be Ackerman angle. I assumed that the angle of the arm would be a good indication, but it is possible (not having my original components any more) that the arm mounting on the upright may fit towards the wheel than behind or at the knuckle vertical center line.

Some older pre 80's cars can't have proper steering arm locations with racks, because of wheel and brake systems interference. And for anti-Ackerman angle, there are references on old school theory, which seems to work, but in some ways it's an engineering challange to find the best method that works, when looking a which route is available when obstacles become a challenge.

It would be interesting to see an oem Pacer arm compared to the Argo.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 6:26am
Are the OEM Pacer arms "bent" as in if you scribed a line in the middle of the mounting holes (looking down) the tapered hole for the tie rod end would be offset?

You are right about the fabricated arms, I am glad it happened at low speed, If I was to make them I think I would use 1" solid round and mill the flats, and mill the notch for the lower ball joint.
 
The thickest wall 1" SHS available here is 1/8" wall, which is probably not thick enough for that type of application.

Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

With the OEM Pacer arms on my 63 there is less Ackerman than the arms I had fabricated. In fact, it appears that the wheels are turned about the SAME angle at full lock. I've experienced no adverse effects from this, and have driven the car on a four hour road trip. I've got power steering, so that may help in parking lots. I can hear a little scrub (with windows down) in a parking lot, but just a bit, and only after about 45 degrees or more. Driving down the road there isn't a difference, but you're turning less than 45 degrees unless turning into a driveway, so there shouldn't be. The outside tire may indeed be turning a little sharper than the inside, it's hard to tell, but it's close enough not to be a big issue.

My fabbed arms weren't strong enough. They were made from thin wall 1" square tubing with a 1/8" thick reinforcement welded to one side. You have to notch the tubing to fit around the steering knuckle -- that or space it back further and change the angle of the arm... I notched. They worked just fine from 2003-2018!! I had an issue where I had a weld that didn't penetrate well and broke loose after a couple years when I bumped a curb a bit hard, but that wasn't a material fault -- just a faulty weld where I welded premade tie-rod end bungs on (rather than buy a reamer -- Speedway Motors has them). The bungs are solid, harder to penetrate them and not burn up the thinner portion of the arms. A piece of solid 1" square would be better. I don't think you can get a thick walled 1" tubing.

What bent one in 2018 was coming OFF a curb!! It was a tall curb, I knew I was going to hit it, so I just eased up on and off. Just hit it with the right tire. went up on it with no problem, but coming off the height and angle combined put enough pressure on the REAR of the tire that it pushed the rear of the tire IN, which put pressure against the arm at that notch and it bent (at the notch)!! No in a million years would I have expected it to bend coming OFF a curb!! Just the right conditions. If there's a one in a million chance of something it's all good... until YOU'RE THE ONE!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 7:53am
A wee side note to lack of Ackerman angle with straight or inboard arms... toe in can compensate, not too much mind you.

As long as what ever methods you take does not effect driving adversely, don't shy away from what most tend to refrain from in standardized rack concepts.

Example... since the Argo arm looks a wee longer than 5" (going by my MII spindle arm length), it may allow the rack more back set, which is good, if your mounting has limitations in back set placement, or is already mounted. If too far back set, at least shimming can be done, before any rework is needed.

Falling back to longer arm to allow for lost Ackerman, may help, but with all things being give and take, loosing some turning radius may not be an issue with smaller bodied cars. Though the option would require just a wee more negative camber, and zero toe in, with the a slightly longer arm (if it fits the brake system, and wheels used). It may work out, if finding limitations with setting parameters within the standards for your rack setup.

Though it's your setup, and all the details are in front of you, for your best judgement. Just bringing thought for those following alon

Sorry, if I seem to bounce away from your method of correction... just that's how I think... many angles at once at times. Looking at the simplest option that will produce results. Though once I get the plan sorted as to how things go, I tend to work at optimizing and taking things a bit further in tidying things up. It makes for some ideas to pop up spare of the moment, which can annoy the bajeebus out of peeps, but my actions are a lot more methodical so to speak.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by Lucas660 Lucas660 wrote:

Brad, here is what I found compared to the arms on my 1964 Rambler Classic.
Apparently the steering arms are all the same for all years but maybe you can shine some light on this as you most likely have the parts in front of you since you are tackling the same project.
Might as well just do it in picture form.






Steering stop doesn't line up but can weld a tab no dramas.


In summary: For Racers: Yes......For public road drivers: No.

I can't get my head around it but it makes sense that I end up with Anti-Ackerman steering here.

I checked by making a dummy linkage also as the rack is -slightly- (1.25"!!!) forward of where it should be, but my measurements showed the outside wheel turning sharper than the inside.

I spent the afternoon messing around with it. I understand the science behind it, and will probably chalk it up as a loss and make my own arms out of solid.

If someone can actually confirm that all the steering arms are the same length power/manual throughout all years post 1963 I would appreciate it as I don't need the full 1.25" difference in pivot. 3/4 will get me where I want to be.


Stock Pacer arms, tried to show the tie rod "twist". There is a left and a right because of this "twist"
 




 pacer arms stock


Edited by Brad - Nov/05/2019 at 1:55pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/05/2019 at 1:35pm
Stock Pacer steering arms have a plate that acts as  a steering stop. I didn't know this till I got this picture. Notice the top mounting position the steering arm is thinner than say a Javelin steering arm that has the steering stop cast into the arm



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