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High Performance Engine Oil

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LakesideRamblin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakesideRamblin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: High Performance Engine Oil
    Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 12:52pm
Lucas SAE 10W40 (10683) Hot Rod & Classic High Zinc Engine Oil.  Run in my 360 street motor.  Not a straight race engine but beefed up.  I am in a mild So. Cal. climate but it works great with no issues after 1 1/2 years and I pound the thing.  Maybe the high zinc content is the key?

Edited by LakesideRamblin - Feb/11/2019 at 1:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 9:56am
They guy who is doing the oil tests, points out cam lobe wipe out even on high additive oils.

His rule of thumb is the lowest weight oil that does not drop oil pressure for the engine build.

Also some of the higher rated oils dont have additives, but he does test various oils with additives added.

Its quite a read, and can make oils a bit clearer to understand and decide on for personal use.

Not saying what oil is over kill... just be aware, to use a race oil on a street car, the benifits may never be seen on your daily driver, while many over the counter oils are just as good until the heat range becomes at the upper scale and beyond of operation.

Outside of an oil presure gauge, a good oil temp gauge is just as critical for monitoring your engine's operation.

Only if the guy would shortened up his expertise and opinions, to allow the bits of information to be more clear in facts finding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 9:32am
I am finding hard to get a current specification on the Penngrade 1. As 304-Dude points out the manufacturers are changing packaging and formulas all the time.
The ksi or psi pressure rating of the oil is very important. But a 60's to 80's "muscle car" has typically 100,000 psi contact pressure between cam lobe and lifter. Add higher load springs and the pressure rises proportionally.
 Modern overhead cams alleviate these high pressures by eliminating the the valve train friction/multiplication and increasing surface contact area. More area and proportionally less load.

The ZDDP is an anti scuffing compound that embeds into the steel. High load pressure oil is tested by direct pressure before it allows metal to metal contact. A camshaft rotates and is wiping oil off the lobe as it ramps up to maximum lift. High shear rated oil will resist oil wedge dispersion. The anti scuffing compound is to keep the separation of metal to metal contact IF the oil wedge has been removed. 

Yes, use the higher pressure rated, high shear rated oil. If you have modified your engine with higher valve lift, best go for oils with known higher ZDDP or invest in a roller cam setup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 7:40am
Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

I believe this is the page 304-dude is referring to:

I've read through this and there's a lot of information there. The author makes the point (many times) that ZDDP isn't the only thing to consider as far as wear is concerned. "Film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi value" is the measure of wear protection according to the blog.

Some of the Amsoil oils as well as 5W30 Joe Gibbes Driven LS30 performance synthetic looks pretty good too.

-Steve-


Yep, but i did reply in this topic with the same link within another oil thread, its located at tge end of the opening page on the link.

Its an on going oil test that has some oils no longer being produced, which still are part of the list. So its a huge compilation of sorts.

Just because one brand may seem as standard, there are key differences in each product subset. I never knew that Mobil 1 has more options off the shelf than what is advertised or usually picked at the store.

Believe it or not a high milage oil gets pretty good score for not being a performance oil. Trouble is you must keep within the heat range. As it and others will drop in protection by 28%.

Just keep point that a brand makes a good known product and a not so known excellent product that may look similar by packaging. Example the new Penzoil Platinum is not the same as the old Platinum, which was one of the tops on the over the counter oil. I had two 5 quart jugs that i purchased for our cars. One was 30w and the other was 20w, only the 20w was the the original platinum, while the 30w was the new oil. They looked almost identical but the new oil had a logo for the blend to show it was not the same as old type.

Though it was a one time deal, so that said, i am back to Mobil 1, which actually runs cleaner with a 1 micron filter used in conjuction. Purolator finally fixed their product line... some time in 2011 or so they had issues with their top of the line filters. STP, Mobil 1 and Wix still are good 1 micron filters.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 7:05am
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Check the cam gear and make sure it's delivering oil to the distributor gear as it should. That is the #1 reason for chewed up dizzy gears. Make sure you have a MATCHED SET of gears, preferably used AMC issue gears, but especially aftermarket replacements need to be a matched set. The added oil line will help, but corrected cam gear oiling is usually more than enough. If you have high pressure/high volume oil pump mods that puts added pressure on the drive gear also. Not really needed in an AMC -- the stock pump provides more than enough oil and pressure with just some cover clearance tweaking.



The set that got chewed up was a matched set of original AMC gears. The only variable between that engine and the previous one was the type of oil used and the timing case was an aftermarket piece that was machined by an AMC vendor. This is the ONLY engine I've had with this problem.

After I assemble an engine I prime the oiling system and look through the fuel pump window to make sure the distributor drive gear has oil flowing out of it.

-Steve-

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 7:01am
I believe this is the page 304-dude is referring to:

I've read through this and there's a lot of information there. The author makes the point (many times) that ZDDP isn't the only thing to consider as far as wear is concerned. "Film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi value" is the measure of wear protection according to the blog.

Some of the Amsoil oils as well as 5W30 Joe Gibbes Driven LS30 performance synthetic looks pretty good too.

-Steve-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 6:37am
Check the cam gear and make sure it's delivering oil to the distributor gear as it should. That is the #1 reason for chewed up dizzy gears. Make sure you have a MATCHED SET of gears, preferably used AMC issue gears, but especially aftermarket replacements need to be a matched set. The added oil line will help, but corrected cam gear oiling is usually more than enough. If you have high pressure/high volume oil pump mods that puts added pressure on the drive gear also. Not really needed in an AMC -- the stock pump provides more than enough oil and pressure with just some cover clearance tweaking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JGRANTAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 6:24am
Amsoil signature oil is good for 25K at a cost of about $60 per 5 quart oil change + filter, I don't know anyone who drives their classic ride more than that in a year. Not having to crawl under my daily ride more than twice a year (Amsoil recommends changing the oil filter at 6 months) saves me time and hassle ends up with a comparable cost and the best protection. I run Amsoil in almost everything cars, lawn mower, snow thrower also use their 2 cycle oil. The best way to solve a problem is to not have one, saving a few bucks on low performance oil doesn't seem to pan out when it comes to distributor gears.

J


Edited by JGRANTAMX - Feb/11/2019 at 6:27am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 5:56am
My link shows Amisol is tops, and with detsils as to why. Others come off pretty good as well. Just the big question made, was not to break the piggy. Top oils are expensive, and may not be worth the investment on a street driven car ovrr other brands.


I know the link i gave is huge on the topic, and can loose some in that it is written out kinda like billd would expain.

I doubt any street driven car would benifit on the best of the best oils, as demands on the engine are light compared to full track time demands. Though anyone will change to the proper oil before doing so, as it is common sense.

You may find the list of oils eye opening, as there are a few over the counter oils thst come close to being just as good as racing oils. And the only issues with use, is hey have a higher drop off with higher heat range. The Mobil 1 oil is not common in the states, but may be found in Canada and Mexico. Like explained in a previous reply, not all Mobil 1 oils are made the same. You must have a keen eye and specifically obtain what was tested. Even oil weight selected6 can effect the same make of oil, as the engineer explains in details with additives and components jn the oil make up, that may effect how ut performs. Some perform better with additives some dont gain much all.

I recommend reading through the long bits, as to see how oils stack up, just because one is better, does not mean the few below it are not as good for a street / strip driver.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 2:06am
What is wrong with Brad Penn (now Penngrade 1) oil? I've been thinking about switching to it myself.

Currently using Rotella T 10W30.
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