199 ci questions

Probably the passage around that head bolt is sludged up. That's why the head bolt diameter is reduced slightly, to open it up for more oil flow. The better the flow the less likely it is to sludge up. today's oil is less likely to sludge than 1960s-70s oil also, but with the tighter tolerances used now there are still some issues with some vehicles, and they are more touchy to viscosity. Can't just throw in a bit thicker oil if it uses a little oil anymore due to small passages. I still remember when Chrysler started using small passages in their new V-6s in the late 80s/early 90s. 0W-30 and 5W-30 oil was being specified, but many oil change places mostly carried 10W-30 was their cheapest, and that's what many people went with due to cost and "that's what they always used".  Many an engine didn't last long! The Ford Triton would suffer the same fate, but people quickly learned to use the lighter oils. Even my 4.0L wouldn't mind running10W-40 or even 20W-50, though I wouldn't run the thick stuff since it's still relatively low mileage. Could get by with it in the middle of the hot summer though!

Your version (assuming you put it together...) is a little harder than the factory kit. Have to take yours apart carefully to remove the valve cover. Factory kit goes in from the top through a grommet, just have to take the fitting off the top and lift the valve cover off. But both work, that's the important part! And how often do you take the valve cover off? Shouldn't have to unless there is a major problem since the 199/232/258/4.0 uses hydraulic lifters (196 uses solid, except for the AL version).

Remove the valve cover and drill a 1/2" hole through it just above #5 spark plug, drill and tap a 1/4-28 hole into the oil cavity of the head, reinstall valve cover, discard the needle of the grease fitting shown in the picture, pretend that piece of pipe is only 2" long and hook it all together for the overhead oil line that tees into where the oil pressure sending unit goes. Then seal around the hole in the valve cover and good to go. As the line is quite short it is not nearly so visible as one going down through the top of the valve cover. Most of it is hidden behind the transmission filler tube, hence the curve in the brake line. 

Edited by vinny - Feb/09/2019 at 12:31am

Check the spark plugs. A freshly rebuilt engine will burn a good bit of oil until it's broke in. If the plugs are really bad just go ahead and get new. Run it a couple hundred miles and check again, clean while you have them out. Might not be the problem, but it could just not be broken in good and making a little noise. I'd definitely do the head bolt mod regardless. Might not be absolutely necessary, as the engines ran originally just fine -- took a little time and neglect to sludge up a bit. Type of oil made a difference too -- I remember Quaker State and other Pennsylvania crude based oils used to sludge up more than others -- but not today. Oil formulations have changed drastically since the 60s!!