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amc 360 rpm to 7k |
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pfordamx
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/13/2010 Location: OKC Status: Offline Points: 173 |
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Posted: Jan/21/2019 at 10:31pm |
7000 rpm isn't a issue we ran a stock rodded with arp bolts 390 for years with forged pistons and healthy hydraulic that would trap inbetween 6800-7000. if the block is prepped correctly and your using a miloden pan or something similar with external pickups its not an issue. amcs are easy to build to live at that rpm. especially a stock stroke 360 it won't have the piston speed of something like a 401 or 390 or some of the 4.00 stroker crank motors, or engines with offset ground cranks. i have a indy headed 433 thats a street motor 9.5 to 1 solid lifter cam thats seen 7300 because we had to deep of a gear in the car first time out got it right now were we shift at 6800 and traps about the same runs 10.50s at 124 in a 3150lb amx. its nice if you can do it without the rpm but there are a ton of amcs out there that see 6500-7000 regularly without issue.
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racerM95
AMC Apprentice Joined: Dec/16/2018 Location: Winnipeg Canada Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Joe Elmore Power Nation TV did a VERY stout 360 Build, even shows dyno results... Bottom of the page even gives part numbers... https://www.powernationtv.com/episode/HP2012-04/amc-other-engine-build-up
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amx390ssc
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jul/14/2015 Location: Bath, Pa Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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listen to Steve!!! 7k is not a problem.
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turbo
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/26/2008 Location: chicago area Status: Offline Points: 2568 |
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You will kill it.......Amc won't sustain 7k
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they call me Capt RETIRED!
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5798 |
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There is only so much you can mill off the heads before you get into the valve seats, the easiest way to build compression in the 360 is to slap some flat top pistons in it, cast if you are game or step up to forged if you want to have a little more piece of mind. That will boost compression from factory 8.5:1 up to around 10.5:1 depending on head choice.
I'd second installing some form of rev limiter, that will give you some protection from the odd missed shift or red mist induced brain fade. My suggestion is to run the Torker with throttle body injection, either Holley Sniper or Fitech, it takes a lot of guess work out of the tuning side of things. You can also use these systems to run the ignition and in that application, they will have built in rev limiting capabilities.
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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PROSTOCKTOM
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2450 |
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You should read up on John's 360 build here on the forum or even possibly buy one from him.
This is a tried and true, guaranteed combination that I think would work well for you. Tom
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Steve Obertanec
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/26/2012 Location: Lodi Ohio Status: Offline Points: 246 |
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You can build a reliable powerful 360 with stock components & a little love.
If the crank is clean & within tolerance you can just polish & reuse. The stock pistons should be fine cleaned up with new moly rings. I would resize the rods & install new rod bolts. Stock bolts are a weak spot. King engine bearings & dura bond cam bearings have shown the best performance & reasonably priced. We have used the big summit cam for amc with really good results. We u se the Comp Cams Magnum lifters. They hold up over 6500 rpm. Milling the heads for compression isn't a bad idea. Cleaning up the sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent detonation on cheap gas. You should put new springs locks & retainers. Do not cheap out on the valve locks. Make sure you get machined not stamped. There is only like a $15 difference. Hardened pushrods. Always remember a good motor is a good combination. A fast car is a good combination. I'm sure I'm missing stuff but this should get you thinking.
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Steve Obertanec
www.stevandracing.com |
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Amc wannabe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/08/2014 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 86 |
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Steve, what are your thoughts on the limitations of a original rotating assembly? I just got my heads off and haven’t measured the cylinders just yet but it looks pretty fresh by eyeball standards. Is it de facto chango on these things if your looking for hp in the 400s? Or will it survive a while? Has me thinking of possibly just milling the heads etc to up compression and throw it back together if measurements check out. Any thoughts?
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Steve Obertanec
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/26/2012 Location: Lodi Ohio Status: Offline Points: 246 |
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Don't get stuck on that RPM number. Most street cams dont make power that high & all you would be doing is testing parts. You can build a stout bottom end with the K1 rods, Wiseco pistons & a stock crank (balanced) that will withstand the rpm your looking for. You can freshen up your heads & run the air gap till you get used to things & then do an upgrade. Just thoughts...
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Steve Obertanec
www.stevandracing.com |
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Amc wannabe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Jan/08/2014 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 86 |
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so do you think I should lower my expectations down to 6k in order to get the best use out of the air gap? It’s advertised to 6,500 and I’m looking to split the difference between race and street performance so I don’t want to overdo it and force myself into a race only setup(which I assume the torker is most likely on a 360 since it’s minimum suggested rpm I think was 3 or 4K) that won’t be as fun to daily. Really green on building so the only thing I have to go on are the advertisers suggested rpm ranges and advise. Be gentle haha
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