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Torqstorm 401 Build

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Ramzilla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ramzilla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Torqstorm 401 Build
    Posted: Feb/19/2020 at 4:00pm
AMC Buddies just thought I would share my discussion with you from Torqstorm.

Message: I seen your twin AMC kit on the AMX. Do you know what HP & Touq he is making. Also with the twin blower units what kind of PSI are we looking at, still in the process of getting info on building motor.   I have a 1969 SC Rambler planning on using Fi tech injection with my STR crossram like the AMX on your web site. I have no power steering or AC also plan on electric water pump. Can you give me estimate on kit price. Maybe estimate on HP & touq and RPM range where HP & touq begins. Also total PSI with twins so I can plan on what compression ratio I will need. Thanks Larry

Hello Larry
The supercharger systems are adjustable. The boost numbers are determined by how your engine breathes and the supercharger system adjustment. The original AMC build was close to 600hp. The engine was nothing special. The car was sold. The new owner build a more capable engine. It's been a few years. I believe the power was in the mid 800's at 6600rpm and 13psi. I do not recall getting torque results from him. What kind of power do you want to make? That is really what matters here. With each engine, owner and application being different. Your individual plans are what we should focus on. As the system gets planned out for you. We can aim for your power level and adjust the superchargers outputs to match. The twin system can be built for your application. No AC, No power steering. The alternator low on the passengers side. $6300 with two carb hats for your crossram.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2020 at 12:15pm
Fiberglass replacement hood such as http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/amxjavelin.html ?

IMO, a '71-'74 AMX style hood looks really good adapted to an earlier Jav or AMX bodystyle... that might give a nice big opening across the back to let heat out at low mph street duty?

-maybe have your air intake ducted to the center with heat outlets on both sides?
443 XRV8 Gremlin YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=2DmFOKRuzUc
XRV8 Race Parts website: http://amcramblermarlin.1colony.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 10:01am
Depending on thickness needed, you can get neoprene foam square sealing strips that come in 3 meter lengths. Used it to seal fan shroud to radiator. The 1/4" square size did allow for bends, considering its density.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2020 at 9:50am
Here's what I've got in mind. A separator lid mounted to the supercharger hat that will segregate the underhood air from the hood scoop side. It'll seal against the underside of the hood.

Probably mock it up with cardboard. The actual part will be either lightweight fiberglass or high-temp plastic.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2020 at 8:17pm
It's 4 degrees outside.

-Steve-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rsrguy3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/08/2020 at 8:46pm
What’s the latest?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2019 at 7:21am
Looking at your last engine compartment picture, I'm wondering if the air can't get out of the engine compartment. Try driving it without the hood scoop on or even without the hood. If that works then your radiator is good enough but you'll need to figure a way to get the air out of the engine compartment.
If it still runs hot, somethings wrong with the radiator or cooling system would be my guess.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2019 at 7:12am
If it runs 195-200 that's perfectly ok. As long as it's not boiling over it's cooling, so technically anything under 240-250 is safe. I know, 200 is closer to the boiling point than I like too, but it IS safe as long as temp is steady at 200. Before I got my radiator and fan situation straight I had to cut my AC off at 220. I had to go with a larger radiator and more fan when I added AC.  I'm assuming a stock 195 t-stat, but even if you're running a lower temp t-stat you're still fine.

That it "runs away" (continues to climb) at a stop indicates an air flow issue, the steady 195-200 when moving means you have enough radiator. Did you alter the fan? Have a shroud? Electric or mechanical fan(s)??
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ARIZONAAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2019 at 9:47pm
I have a Torqstorm on my 68 401 AMX. It doesn't run any hotter when I am cruising around town then before I installed it,no intercooler. The temp will climb a little when I am in boost. Stock seven blade fan. This old engine has had a B&M 174 blower, a BD-11A Powerdyne & now a torqstorm. 8.75 comp.
68 AMX 401,727.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 3904speed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2019 at 8:59pm
Awesome and scary heat. Very Interesting. Hope you work it out. NICE BUILD 
Godspeed 
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