Mega HVAC and Cooling

After a bit of fiddling about with my 2 different styles of upper radiator hoses, and adapting the clocking of my Sanden SD pump for ease of service without complications with hose routing... I searched online for images with Sanden service ports being clocked at 12'o clock, unfortunately I locked on to seeing compressors mounting perfectly horizontal from various other makes and a few york conversions.

So by fiddling around with the clocking with the compressors mounting, I compounded my confusion with changing the head orientation. Nothing can be done as the head is located with dowls. So the issue for clearance on my line and hose is by the factory clocking built into the mounting bracket.

So, for reference into mounting orientation and removal of the head for a head swap, I recommend this service guide. It also covers many details you may have questions about.

Here is the downloaded pdf.

SD_Service_Guide_Rev_2.pdf

Edited by 304-dude - Jun/07/2019 at 6:20am

PABLO wrote: Hi,  I have a long list of more urgent work to do, put is a think that I´ll think to do in the future.  just to give the idea, in my car i did something easer to help with the coolling. I put a electrical fan with a termostat and put a switch which i can operate from the interior to make it work when I want. As I did a modification to the lower center housing to take out the ashtray and put an extra temp clock and a Amper meter. I put a switch next to the ligther with a check light over it. That way went i get in a traffic jam, or i going to stop for a wile I can put the fan on. bye

Since Spain can be as hot as some of the US, both humid and dry, depending on location... I recommend a pusher fan that mounts in front of the condenser.

Also, make sure your radiator is clean and free from any clogs. Oddly enough my radiator had a re-core of 2 rows, when it should have been 3 rows. Something i did not expect when finding out what was original for all A/C cars.

Did not get too far, but just about to finalize my radiator install. Measured 14.5" from top mounting hole (Dodge OEM location) to the mounting pad I created by mounting a 2.5" wide plate to the lower radiator support. I bent and trimmed the side facing the radiator to a 90° angle support, so 3 sides to the bottom corner of the frame sections will support the bottom isolator, perpendicular with the side of the radiator.

The right hand side will not need a hole drilled at the bottom, to mount an angled bracket for the isolator, as the oem location is perfect.

This is only on the left side, as the right side has a different floor, since it does not have a sloped channel for radiator overflow spillage.

Decided to check my high pressure line fitment with the A/C condenser, and it looks and fits very well, as it is made for a modern import.

Will need to drill out a hole, a wee down from the upper radiator support near the battery location. Since the condenser is close to 30" wide from block connection to block connection. Centering places the high pressure line very close to the new hole staight to my Sanden SD 508, with the line having a 90° bend to fit the top mounted service port.

If I were not to use top mounted service ports, as in having a different head... i would be using some other line from what ever to fit the head's high pressure port.

I had to revise my general perpose super circuit, since i am trying to keep with continuity of the components I have initially started with and eleminated the use of factory a/c relay, as it requires some extra wiring. So the circuit is trimmed down for a simpler installation. Also i upped the values a wee bit, but expect changes for the types of fans used.

The changes to the circuit and additional info are now seen on the opening page to this thread.

As for the build I am setting up, seen in the circuit below, i intend on using the VW fan controller as it has soft start function, which does not require heavy wiring and larger values for fuses and breakers. Because the fans are super effecient allong with my cooling system, the main fan will be used only when engine temps are above 190°F. The A/C fan will be used as a main fan and as a separate, only when temps are below 190°F.

Its more effecient since the A/C fan runs at a lower current and should be easier on the charging system.




Here are the trouble shooting steps on repairing faults.

1) Check circuit breakers for any that have reset.

If the two circuit breakers that go to the fan control module reset, most likely the fan controller is bad or a compromised wire in the circuit.

If any of the other two circuit breakers have reset, check the relay and the wiring associated with the reset circuit breaker.

To test, leave the reset circuit breaker as is, and disconnect the device connected to the reset circuit breaker. Measure the continuity between terminal 85 and the others. If 0 ohms is measured, then the relay is bad.

The module should measure around 6k to 7k ohms between heat sink and the power and also the ground connections. Thus the heat sink cannot be grounded to chassis. It may be the cause to why the failure occurred.

If a fuse blew, most likely the issue is with the fan.

The delay circuit is robust enough to survive many set reset timer cycles as it was made for commercial alarm circuits. So if delay issue arrise, check by grounding both temp switch connectors for 1 second and remove the 210°F temp connector from ground. The fan should continue to operate until timer resets or when 180°F temp connector is removed from ground.

If A/C system fails to function, check trinary swich function, also verify power is available from A/C cluch feed to pin 4.




If farna is following... i kept from stating more than i have about the contour fans. Since i am not using them, and have had conflicting info to confuse me.

As an option to look at helping remedy the high current draw, one can use of a Ford Focus PWM fan motor controller. Search, Corvette Focus PWM controller... it should be a you tube video. It seems pretty simple enough and probably as cheap as my VW controller.

Here is a link...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHbFbSiabfI

One guy found that the contour fans can actually draw around 80A. Jaw dropped. But that is because of how they were wired up. Obviously they are a bit more robust than what i expected for their size.

Edited by 304-dude - Jul/02/2019 at 11:46am

Now back to my setup...

Having installed the fan assembly rotated 180°, so the fan connector is located on top for easy access, for removal and troubleshooting, if needed... I decided the huge connector and 4 connection wiring was a bit bulky and gets in the way. Being that I have changed how the fan controller is being mounted, and will function, it makes for the rewiring the harness much cleaner with 2 connection wiring through the harness.

Also i will need to cut out the pressure vent and mount it 180°, since the rubber vent flaps are slightly opened by gravity (the hinges are at the bottom now). The fan operation should suck them closed, but I rather make the vent function as designed for long term functionality.

Once I obtain a new set of connectors, wiring the grounds will be to the body, instead of adding lengths of wire to the control module or relays. When swapping out a possible bad motor control module, no fan override switch is required for my circuit, since the high current circuit breakers are enough to drive the motors, when the module is bypassed with direct connection to motors from the relay controls. A small pig tail connection adapter harness mounted to the body, so the power from the relays can plug directly into the the customized fan wiring harness at the shroud. Because of the easy swap out setup, connections along the fan power circuit are muliplied by 2. So far, I can't see any way the cooling fan system will fail completely, let alone be too much trouble for a quick fix.

My plan is to mount a manual reset circuit breaker / fuse box on side of the battery using a plastic battery enclosure (acid leakage protection) which fits around a group 24F battery, and the relays on the battery side of the radiator side support, which will greatly shorten the distance needed for the fan control relays and fan control module.

So anywho... small delays on the completion of wiring for now, and will be making a 2.5" offset bracket for the Sanden compresser, so it is mounted more upright, instead of one side, due to a dropped down to tilt the unit when mounted on the Jeep bracket.

Had a wee misshap with condensor mounting... the locating pins on the bottom had bent from shipping. Should have compaired measurement of their distance before installing the mounting tabs (I used the specs in the diagram). Made a few adjustments to the pins to correct. Need to find my 1-1/2" Uni-bit, that I thought I was done with using it, to finish the line pass-through for the passenger side, since the stock pass through is blocked by the large condenser.





Edited by 304-dude - Jul/01/2019 at 4:46pm