Mega HVAC and Cooling

Got the connectors done... though I am using OEM Honda or if one wants to use a metric 7.2mm equivelent terminal, this connector will work. I chose Honda, as i picked up an engine compartment fusebox a while back for repairs on our Honda. Note... these wires are for 50amp circuits, which are about double what each fan will ever pull. The main reason why I used them, is that terminals are high quality, and will work better than after market in the long run. You can pick up replacement pigtails from any auto manufacturer if you prefer.

The red rectangular water proof blocks are for separate fuses on each fan. This way the circuit is still functional even if a fan motor goes bad and shorts out.



Installed my cut out and rotated pressure relief vent. Once the glue dries, I will do the opposite side to fully seal the seam.



Will finish up wiring up the fan wiring to complete the fan assembly for installation and connection. Notice the ground wires are not in place... since I am using a 2 connection connector, and want to eliminate ground wires from inputs, i chose to make ground separate from the harness, to be directly connected at the upper support. Also i will be adding ground straps to the radiator since it is mounted on rubber isolators.

Edited by 304-dude - Aug/03/2019 at 4:35pm

After another bout of rethinking block connector fittings and zero restrictions within the system, I have decided to clean up what is going on and why. Note... most of the details are from previous additions which are now removed, and recompiled for ease of understanding.

First the why... Due to the type of receiver and pressure switch combo I am using, I must make sure all #8 connections are true to form for proper function.

So far all block types and their hose fittings have some restrictions over their O-ring counter parts. I did not expect to have to go into forensic detail, on why such issues are as they are, but it seems tollarances are loosely made on some A/C block fitting manufacturing processes.

The oversized block that would not fit my condenser, from the Miata line, is about 1mm too big on its port OD, which seemed to be more than adequate for its factory intended use at the high side output, on the compressor. Though only 1/2 of the hole in the block was properly drilled, which pinched off the opening for full flow. I did a test by blowing through the hole and compared before and after redrilling. A noticable difference in free flowing pass-through. This would not have been seen unless one examines the hole once debrazing and removal of the tube from the block.

Another issue on the same block fitting, the tube end ID to the hose, was slightly smaller and would not pass a properly sized drill bit without force. I had to hand ream out the ID until the drill bit slid in and out with ease. So there was two issues on just a single block fitting, which was to be mounted to the compressor, and would allow more pressure internally within the compressor, than what may be read by a pressure switch further down in the system.

Some compressors have switches mounted at the output port, which are more accurate to the pressure within the compressor's operational specs.

As for the perfect block from the Elantra, it pinches under the hose and is unseen, until the hose is removed by cutting the crimp ferrule. Once the hose fitting us cut just before the reduced size, the flow is unrestricted.

As for the shorter end of the Elantra line, its restriction is at the O ring flare, which seems reduced by the process of creating the O ring nose at the end of the tube.

I assume the reasons for the restrictions on smaller hosed fittings are because most condensers have #8 input and #6 output, so the use of equivelent blocks are required. Just seems odd that the tube diameter is oversized for its fittings and hose type, which can throw off expections of capability by simple visual inspection.

As for the Elantra line... its fine and dandy, no issues with oem specs. Its just for my setup only, a mod must be done to replace the tube end to the hose for proper #8 size, since my setup requires #8 in, #8 out at the condenser.

On the Miata line, the block fitting seems out of spec for normal #8 fitting standards in flow capability, and must be inspected within the blocks port holes, and hose fitting ID at the end. While the #8 O-ring fitting end of the line is perfect, and does not need orfrice cleanup work done for any flow capability improvements.

To remedy my setup, I will attempt to modify the Miata block and its tube. I will remove the port end off the block and braze an #8 O-ring fitting end, and adding more angle, around a 90° bend. Since I have no lathe, its simpler to give brazing a try.

For the Elantra block fitting, I will braze a section of 1/2" ID aluminum tubing as a sleeve, over the removed bead lock section butted with a small section of 1/2" OD aluminum tubing. The other end of the 1/2" tubing will be brazed the same way to a #8 Male O-ring fitting for connection to the drier. Basically turning the block fitting into a hard line connection, for simplicity.

Added cost of $14.00 for the custom setup. If I had kept with the Range Rover receiver, or used an up stream pressure switch, this would not be much of an issue, as the restriction down stream would be part of the #8 to #6 conversion, before the drier, any way.


Edited by 304-dude - Jul/30/2019 at 1:05pm

One small update...

After a wee playing around with the drier placement after my wee nudge with the hardline, i figured the small amount of angle did not make much difference to the fitting alignment between the condenser and drier.

So, i played around with the drier placement, after aligning the condenser side hard line fitting to keep from rubbing and creating an obstruction with body and bracketry. Basically looks as oem as one could do, considering how the over all fit without major modifications to route to the drier/receiver. Won't need a hold down clip, since there is enough clearance from any rubbing. The rubber hose section will fit under the arch of the front nose section of the frame easily. Almost as if the arch was made for clearance for such routing.

I tried lowering with a spacer bracket, and it looked a bit wonky, for trying to keep a short distance and direct angle alignment. After looking at using one of the existing battery plate holes for the I6 setup, i found it looking much better tucked up in the opening, even though it will be hidden from sight by the fender. Given that i had hoped to use the hole, for the bulk head pass through for the #6 line, into the engine bay, it made a few second thoughts as to modify for pass through.

Having the drier mounted high against the inner panel, allowed for a nicer curve with a longer hose between the fittings.

Now its a matter to how i will work around the loss of a pass through using a factory hole. Worst case is to follow the condenser hard line back to the front and pass through the factory hole.

Will have to get around to the removal of the bumper brackets and mount the driver side for a final check before finalizing my thoughts on any further adjustments, even though they may be wee.

I finially found my misplaced specs sheet on the 2000 Forester A/C system, which helped in my selecting a proper condenser.

Note... Sanden SD508 is very similar to the oem Zexel unit used by Subaru. So matching the Subaru Forester condenser to the Sanden SD508 is not a problem, for peeps wondering if I am going too big on my design.

So far the only non matched component is the evaporator, though the drier has no effect on performance, just so happens the VW drier has a larger, volume, which may help with reserve flow.

Since the AMC evaporator is larger, theoretically the compressor should work less, as long as one takes the time and replaces the A/C expansion valve with a R134a compatible version.

Here is the hard to find specs sheet.

Ok, I removed my last few updates... Because I never placed the two A/C lines side by side, and were purchased a month a part, I assumed the output line from the condenser was with #6 fittings, since its hose is smaller diameter than the input line from the compressor.

Until I removed the Denso block fitting from the high pressure line, I then checked the fittings on the line which had the smaller diameter hose. Low and behold the fittings pipe diameters are 1/2" on all.

Even though the hoses are Goodyear Galaxy and have a 13/32" ID, the hoses OD don't match. So, it looks like no mods needed for the condenser to use proper #8 fittings, just the Denso block fitting is unique to its use at the compressor.

I will use the best end to reperpose for a custom line to properly fit at the condenser without restriction or undersizing the line to make fit.

Oddly enough the smaller diameter hose may work for bends, but I rather replace with a proper hose that is thick to make all #8 lines to have the same look, and not befuddle me with looking like #6 lines. After all I will be using both lines at the receiver / drier, which will confuse one when looking down at it, as all the fitings are at the bottom.

Now that my head is clear from confusing smaller hoses are #6, I can work away with the original lines chosen at the begining of the thread.

Will update which end will be used to replace the Denso block fitting on the compressor high side line.