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Aussie Gremlin

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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/16/2018 at 6:29am
So the Gremlin went on a bit of a diet today, took out the rear seat, rear seat belts and wiper motor, that's about 40 lbs.

The other thing I'm wondering about is this roof spoiler:



I realize that a Gremlin is about as aerodynamic as a brick, but just wondering if this would be creating any measurable drag, other than that's it's probably another 10 lbs off the car, so should I loose it or not? 

Also thinning of adding some adjustable front shocks, now I have scoured the internet for a least an hour and cannot find any evidence of what they might gain in terms of ET, sure they will help weight transfer, but to what end? 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gremlin1945 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/16/2018 at 9:54pm
Lose the rear spoiler for starters. You'll need a pair of 90/10s shocks in the front. There's no front end lift at all in the video. As per our conversation use the line lock to get the tires spinning staticly on the burnout. I used to use rear shocks calibrated to 70/30 on my gremlin. Gave the visual appearance of the old mopars  with the tires planting and the rear body seperating. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/17/2018 at 12:00am
Might have to order some new front shocks for Christmas then. Competition engineering 3 way adjustable shocks on the back, but still set 50/50.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2018 at 10:01pm

Had another crack at it last night, as mentioned, I have removed the rear seat, rear seat belts, wiper motor and roof top spoiler saving 46 lbs in total.


Didn't match last weeks PB, but overall slightly better and more consistent. Was hoping that loosing the spoiler might have reduced aerodynamic drag slightly for a little more MPH, but most of the gains seem to have come from better 60' times.



Edited by WesternRed - Dec/20/2018 at 4:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2018 at 2:34pm
What front coil springs are in the car?  I put 6-cyl Javelin Front Springs in my '69 AMX and
it help weight transfer imho.  My AMX stock had the heaviest stock springs, H/D with A/C, etc.
and I had removed a bunch of weight, iron manifolds, A/C, P/S, yada yada...
Javelin 6-cyl springs = 9.84" @ #850, #93/in & 9.84" @ #800, #83/in
AMX HD A/C springs = 9.84" @ #1010, #115/in & 9.84" @ #935, #115/in
Wonder if Gremlin Front Coil Springs V8 vs I-6 have that much different between them?
Would imagine a considerable amount of front end weight has been removed from your Gremlin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2018 at 10:34pm
I have no idea what front springs are in it, but it is originally a 6 cylinder car. There were no V8 Hornets in Australia or Gremlins of any form back in the day, so it’s unlikely that the factory springs would have been swapped out for anything heavier. That said, the V8 probably has better weight distribution than the 6 cylinder due to the engine effectively sitting further back in the bay. Front does appear to sit up a bit stance wise, so maybe some lighter front springs would be the go.

Front shocks are just what was in the car when I got it, might be time to order some front drag shocks for it.




Edited by WesternRed - Dec/20/2018 at 10:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/21/2018 at 7:00am
For the sake of a little more interest I pulled some numbers off the data logger from the last night out (runs are in the same order). I was trying a few different stall speeds to see if it made any difference off the line and also have recorded the actual stall speed achieved and shift points. Can't say that I see much in it in regard to what if anything worked better. Maybe somebody has better eyes than me? 



It looks like  am probably shifting into 2nd about half way to 330' and into top just after 330'.

PS: I forgot the SIM card the previous time, so no data there.


Edited by WesternRed - Dec/21/2018 at 7:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/22/2018 at 7:31am
Any thoughts on the plugs, been in there since I started running it last season with the old motor. Note number 6 is an odd plug NGK BP5ES, the rest are Champion N12YC, broke one when I put the new motor together so used an old plug from something else to get it running:



Replacing them with NGK BP6ES, hope I'm going in the right direction with a colder plug, not that the old ones look too bad really.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/03/2019 at 6:08am
First update for the new year, had a run on Wednesday night, no startling developments other than it did run slightly higher mph for the first few runs, fresh plugs perhaps, before tailing off a bit towards the end of the night, somewhat due to driver inattention I think.

I did fiddle with a couple of small changes to the EFI system

This is a fairly typical run from the previous outing just before Christmas with a few points of interest highlighted. It does seem to go a little rich when the throttle first hits the floor and it also seems to take a little while to build RPM once the converter flashes to 4,000 RPM or so (not sure if this is normal).


I did take a little off the acceleration enrichment and that appears to have removed the rich spike, but did not really made any difference off the line:


I also thought I would try a run with the closed loop learning disabled after some input that the apparent oscillation of the AFR might be consistent with the learning mode chasing it's tail. This didn't appear to make a lot of difference other than the AFR ratio being a little less consistent across the run.


Note that timing is still via a traditional mechanical advance distributor, vacuum advance is not hooked up, running 34 degrees total advance that is all in by 4000 rpm, probably earlier. Perhaps some more attention here is in order so I will re-check the timing curve and see what it looks like.  

Any thoughts from here?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/05/2019 at 2:09am
Thinking to add some form of cold air intake, this looks like it has some potential:

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