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Strange Sucking Sound |
Post Reply | Page <1 23456> |
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Ruby loye
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/15/2012 Location: wa state Status: Offline Points: 792 |
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It is a well known fact that Jeeps suck........LOL Just kidding hope you find your motors Gremlin, or Hornet, or Spirit I guess I should stop.......Rambling, could'nt help myself.
mark
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ChillyB
AMC Nut Joined: Nov/14/2018 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 371 |
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Huh. When I drove my new-to-me Jeep home it had a burned valve and broken rocker in the same cylinder. And lots of bent pushrods. That engine is getting rebuilt this year.
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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Thanks! If I find a Gremlin or Spirit in there I might fly high like a Eagle....
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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Still ran fine except backfired back through the intake since the exhaust valve was not opening. I just pulled the intake rocker and limped home. Exhaust valve is still operating, but I think it is sticking for sure now....
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ChillyB
AMC Nut Joined: Nov/14/2018 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 371 |
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Your Sir, are the official Ambassador of bad AMC puns.
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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Not sure if that is sarcasm or sincerity, but I still found it punny!
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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So in searching for answers I found that if I go to zero lash, (as I have read here, with the rocker to the valve head) I have over 2 complete turns till the nut bottoms out.
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ChillyB
AMC Nut Joined: Nov/14/2018 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 371 |
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"Nut bottoms out" = lifter completely collapsed? Is that what you are describing?
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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I am thinking that the motor might not have been assembled properly. From what I have read here the rocker nut should only tighten 3/4 to 1 full turn after zero lash to full torque. This technique is recommended if cam, head gasket or head work has been done/changed. This motor was remanufactured, but has always had this miss on the drivers side. I remember thinking it was a ignition miss years ago, but later figured it was another issue since I changed out from points to Prestolite and now Motocraft/HEI. The motor has also changed vehicles during this time and the miss followed all along. I had suspected a lifter issue once I ruled out electrical. The motor though has never had a lifter tick sound so it had me a be miffed. I have always though that the engine lacked in power since it replaced a motor with 250,000 miles on it with a known bad cam. I ordered this engine with a RV cam so I was expecting quite a bit more power, but was disappointed. Just for giggles I checked the first exhaust rocker arm clearance just to see and it also is over a full turn from contact, to nut seat. I am thinking now they assembled the motor wrong and did not compensate for head(s) shaving(?) and/or cam difference. I am going to order in a new rocker and some nut shims and use the technique mentioned above on all the rockers/lifters. I hope to get everything dialed in and have a new motor when done.... Edited by ghcoe - Mar/16/2019 at 5:34pm |
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ghcoe
AMC Apprentice Joined: Sep/29/2018 Location: SW Idaho Status: Offline Points: 72 |
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Ok. So I am needing some help because I have read soooo much I cant keep everything together here.
I am suspecting I will need to adjust every rocker assembly on this motor to get everything right. I am aware that push rod lengths and shims can be used to bring tolerances into proper range. It seems, as of right now the cylinder in question is way out of recommended specs. I am looking to go through each lifter/rocker on the motor and making sure they are in spec and if out to bring them back into spec. So my questions are..... These heads use the Chevy style rockers. From my reading it seems that I can buy Chevy non-shouldered studs. I can't find any info on if this is doable without any machine work. Can I just unbolt the stock shouldered AMC stud and install the Chevy studs in their place? If so what is the recommended length? I notice there are a few listed. Also, is there a recommended polylock to use with the stock rocker cover? I read that I can shim the rocker, but I can only find shims for the bridged rocker towers, nothing for the stud style rocker though. Is there a option? Can someone point me in the right direction? Push rod lengths are also a option for adjustment. Is there a chart that explains lengths and how to compensate for different conditions. Lastly. If rockers are too tight and within two full turns from recommended tightness can I use polylocks on the stock studs? I am going to check today how much turning of the rocker nut it takes to go from first contact to full torque on all my rockers. I hope that this will tell me that there is a issue with how they assembled this engine. If I find that all nuts are too tight I hope this answers questions I had all along. Thanks in advance for any information, George.
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