The Eagle has landed (In my wallet)

I put the whole drivetrain minus rear driveshaft and differential in as a package. The front differential was pre-hung, both cross members in place, front driveshaft was in place and like you, the front half of the exhaust was already in place. Took minutes and I literally did it with my left arm in a sling. 
I wheeled the drivetrain under the car, lowered the car onto stands, then used my gantry crane to lift the engine up a bit and the transmission jack under the transmission to raise that end up, put the bolts and nuts in the cross members and it was in. SOOO easy to get the front differential and front exhaust pipes in that way and even most of the accessories already on the engine. Didn't have to mess with bell housing bolts, lining up a clutch disk and input shaft and so on. And these aren't fun putting transmission AND transfer case in otherwise. 
And this way you have those braces, unique to Eagle, that go between transmission and bell housing and further forward already in place, too. 

I sorted through my bin of hinge parts and they are laying on top so can get my hands on them easily. 
Maybe I'll have some more stuff off the Concord wagon by then, too. 
Trying to go through things to get the SX4 ready for AMO. 

I'd much rather been at GAD than here at home with the constant flooding and storms. We gave away our pool and the fellow got most of the deck down this week - but it was up to us to deal with the posts in the ground. I sunk them over 40" in the ground with a couple bags of concrete around each one. Using a chain and my handyman jack to pull them out I have to set 4x4s under the jack to keep it from sinking and when I get each post out - the hole quickly fills to within inches of the top with water. If you walk in our yard your feet WILL get soaked. And that's a couple days with no rain.

Anyway, nice progress on the wagon there. People may not know, think about it, or have forgotten, whatever, that some of the strength is in numbers, as they say. So lapping two panels and spot welding them together is stronger. The floor panels on these cars overlap INCHES - it's a lot. To just bind two sheets together would taken only an inch at most, but there's two or three inches of overlap in many areas with rows of spot welds. Adds strength.
But it also adds places for rust. The floors in these cars typically rust at the OVERLAP, not in the middle. The last Eagle floor I worked on was spotless, perfect in the low spots, the floor pans were really nice - EXCEPT where the panels overlapped. That's where the dirt, dust, sand collect and hold water against the steel. Wet dust and dirt get trapped in the teeny gaps between the panels or sheets and the dirt is like a sponge keeping the floor panels wet at the overlap - and even if you wash it, there's still a bit of chemical, salts and dirt that stay there. 
It was interesting on the other Eagle I patched as the floor looked great down below, and even with carpet out it wasn't bad - but the rust was starting between the floor panels so it was very hard to detect.

Yellow lines are rows of spot welds - look where it needed a patch......here I have  patch laid in ready to weld. It was solid in back otherwise, just one spot started. I cleaned the lower layer up good, used Extend rust converter, then weld-through primer on the lower panel, and on the back of the patch. 
I made a slight bevel on the patch to help since I'm not a good welder with a wire welder.

I still have those hinge pieces if you want them. They are spares to me - I'd still have a couple "just in case" and will salvage what I can as far as hinges from the concord here.
Let me know if you want them and where to send 'em. The main problem is that they are black so wouldn't match the doors. 

This wagon will be REALLY cool when done - he's got a pair of electric remote mirrors, NOS hatch hinges, extra transmission if needed, good front axles, good hood release cables (rare for Eagle), NOS exhaust head pipe, and the 1982 engine is better and lighter than the 80 258 was. 
I'll dig up the extra hinges I have, and when I get those taken off the Concord can send them over. 
I have spare speedometers and other stuff sitting around here somewhere. 
I think I have extra cruise parts here, too........... unless I sent those along already. 
I love the color of the car.

Electrolysis can be done on a very small scale using ounces of water, a PC power supply or battery, etc. on a kitchen table, or on a large scale involving 1600 gallons of water, a tank made of plywood sheets stood on edge and lined with plastic, welder for power supply, etc.
I've used it since the early 1990s and put my pages up about then. A Ford Falcon club - i believe based on FL - used the info in one of their newsletters, antique motorcycle collectors wrote for permission to copy the info, and tool collectors have used this method as well. The process does not remove the underlying metal and doesn't change the surface, save for removing oxygen bound to the ferrous metal - unlike blasting which pounds the surface to "remove" rust. This won't touch un-rusted surfaces at all as far as changes in texture, etc. If there's no rust, there's no change to the metal surface. 
The cool part for me is that I can set it all up and walk away and do other things while the rust is removed SILENTLY while I am somewhere else. 
I don't have to stand and babysit it, I don't have to be there as I would with blasting or other processes. 
I DO have to periodically clean the electrodes and eventually replace them. I use old lawn mower blades, rebar, other scraps of steel. The only real cost is the laundry soda and electricity - and geesh, you spend more in electricity blasting, etc. - not to mention media, equipment, tips/nozzles and more. 
If your battery charger won't power up across this setup, you simply put a car battery in parallel. No biggy. 
When cleaning up after - you do want to wear water-resistant gloves as it is messy, but the water can be poured in a gravel drive or in the lawn somewhere. Cleaning the electrodes between batches is messy - wear gloves, mask, whatever. It's not deadly but MESSY MESSY MESSY. 
I've used it for over 25 years and still use it.........

Not a great photo - I have a better one somewhere, but shows the part that was in the bucket compared to the part that wasn't - 



Edited by billd - Mar/17/2019 at 9:03am

Mopar_guy wrote: That looks really good! It also shows that you don't always need fancy tools to make something. That's why I posted pictures of how I used a router to fabricate new aluminum grill trim. I hope to meet you some day as we share the same motto "All I can say is that I enjoy the challenge".

There's more than one reason I have a well-equipped wood shop in my shop's second floor...... I use the table saw and band saw to cut my zinc bars to size and shape for my plating tank, use oak inside control arms and other parts when I press bushings out and in to prevent the collapse of the control arms in the press, and when wind caught the door of my wife's Grand Cherokee years ago and smacked it against a rusted out old truck in the grocery store parking lot - and bent the edge of the door badly enough it would hardly close, I used two pieces of oak cut to the shape the door SHOULD be, clamped to either side of the bend and kept tightening the clamps until the door was back into shape. (I used the right door as a template, simply reversing the pattern I cut into the oak blocks)
i keep wood scraps around, especially oak, 2x's and so on - for automotive work.