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69 AMX Lug Bolt removal?

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nickleone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 69 AMX Lug Bolt removal?
    Posted: Oct/10/2018 at 11:58am
Trader,
I removed the drum from a 62 six assembly. Knocked studs out and took the hub to a local NAPA and had it turned down to fit a Previa disc (scarebird conversion). My partner in crime found a dril bit sized  for the new studs (don't remember size) and installed them.  We used slotted mags with the uni-lug pattern .
They are a pain to remove and install but my partner had them in the garage for about 30 years and never used them. He bought them cheap.

Nick
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401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold
390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold
1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes
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david0141 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/09/2018 at 5:28pm
Well I have finally removed my lug studs. I bought a 13/16' Slugger bit from Amazon. Haven't got my new rotors yet so don't know how everything will go back together.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2018 at 3:40pm
May be a silly question but,

has anyone had success taking a drum brake spindle hub and mating it with a slip on rotor?

It may take machining of the outside of the hub and possibly the center also, but then you would have cheaper, easily replaced rotors.

I would imagine only a place with a large inventory of brake parts could make this sort of match.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2018 at 2:37pm
The factory swadged the wheel studs which reduced any knurl from the wheel stud protruding beyond the wheel hub. The wheel stud is smaller in diameter than the wheel stud holes in the rotor. AMC evidently never intended service departments to replace the rotor alone. This deduction insinuates the  common repair was to replace with a new rotor with new hub already swadged in place as a package from the parts department. Wish we could turn the clock back to 1968 and walk into a AMC parts department and inquire.
Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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david0141 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2018 at 7:30am
Thanks again for the help. I see where everyone says that they need to be swedged or the rim will not sit flat but my existing studs are not swedged all the way around, they are only swedged in 2 spots. Maybe 1/8" on each side. I will try to upload my picture again. If it doesnt show up you can send me your em address to david0141@yahoo.com and I will forward it to you.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2018 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by david0141 david0141 wrote:


One other question. Why does it need to be swedged going back in? 
Won't the wheel & lug nut hold every thing in place?

The swadge process  crushed the shoulder at the base of the wheel stud. I found this out the hard way. Bought an expensive set (4) of Tq Thrust ll  two-piece wheels. The wheels would not sit flush against the  FDB hubs because of a terrible wheel stud swadge job. 

You ask a good question and I have pondered it many times. The key would be finding the right wheel stud. I have looked at Dorman's extensive catalogs of wheel studs. It is like looking at NYPD's complete library of mug shots. It is amazing all the different dimensions that play into this. Here is the correct AMX wheel stud I got at Galvin's, the day his wheel stud vendor paid a visit. We had a short chat about how the correct wheel stud was not available until now. Here is a picture I took of the wheel stud. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2018 at 9:02pm
Thanks everyone for the info. 
I think I will buy the tool from Goodson to remove.

One other question. Why does it need to be swedged going back in? 
Won't the wheel & lug nut hold every thing in place?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 10:44pm
couldn't you just hacksaw the stud flush, or cut above the flat, and mill it close to flush? then just drive the stub out normally. and/or drill out the chopped stub to relieve the metal swaged below flush, though if it were milled flush with the hub face that metal wouldn't have much strength left.

i guess i've been lucky with my 6 cyl hubs, they use flat-headed studs and serrated press-in. are serrated press-in studs available? hard to believe the swage provides much advantage. i've never had a stud come loose, that seems like it would take an awful lot of effort/abuse to accomplish.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by david0141 david0141 wrote:

Thanks for the info. Where can I find the tool?

BINGO! GOODSON Tools and Supply sells the Swedge Cutting Tool. Bit pricy, Part # ST-500 is $92.99. It is for 1/2" wheel studs. Goodson also sells several other sizes. Here is a picture from their website for a 1/2" Swedge cutting tool.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 7:30pm
Before I installed the Control Freak IFS on my 69 AMX I had similar problems with bad disc brake hubs. I just retrofitted the disc brake assemblies from a 74 Gremlin onto the AMX. Problem solved since the discs are readily available. It is a volt on modification.
69 AMX     401/727
74 Javelin 360/727
09 Mustang Supercharged 4.6
14 Wrangler Sport 4X4
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