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installing coil springs |
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TX390AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/27/2012 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 803 |
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Stephen,
I've sent a PM with the info you requested. Yes, it's possible to remove/install the front springs without the weight of the engine, you just need some other form of ballast. A couple of very hefty friends, or, as I did, several concrete mix bags and one hefty friend. I sent my phone # with the PM, just call if you need clarification or encouragement. The spring tool will be on it's way to you on Monday. No need for money, you just send them back when done. Terry |
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Terry
68 AMX 390 4 Sp Rally Green 68 AMX 390 4 Sp Matador Red 68 AMX 390 4 Sp Calcutta Russet 56 Chevy Sedan Delivery 2016 Can AM Spyder 55 Chev pickup |
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Garryjav2
AMC Fan Joined: Jul/07/2018 Location: joppa md Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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the ones that galvins sell are mine. I am starting on a new batch next week, he should have them back in stock by the end of sep.
Garry
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Ohio AMX
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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With the engine and transmission out it's easy to remove the springs in a trunnion car without compressing them as there isn't much tension on them. However to reinstall them they have to be compressed. I take them to a spring shop which compresses and bands them for $40 a pair. You can then put them in position, bring up the lower control arm/trunnion to hold them in place, then snip the steel bands.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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dcshay
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/19/2012 Location: new milford ct Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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I found a spring shop that will compress and band my springs do you know the measurement of compression should I measure from upper to lower arms ? and should I still use some weight in the car before snipping bands (no engine in car)
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AMXFSTBK390
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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I had to compress my 68 AMX 390 original front coil springs 5-1/2" to remove them. See picture.
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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Ohio AMX
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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They need to be compressed about 4" or so in order for everything to fit. Then definitely use a jack under the LCA to hold them tightly in position before cutting the bands. You don't have to compress them further (probably wouldn't be able to anyway) but you don't want any chance of them popping out of place once they're freed. I show the whole process in my resto book if you can get ahold of a copy.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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AMXFSTBK390
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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Scott's statement about only needing to compress the coil spring 4" got me to thinking. My 68 AMX came with a/c, ps, power disc brakes which could imply the springs are different depending on what options the AMX came with. After removing the undercoating from the springs I could see patches of paint on the coils: turquoise, red, and white. This may imply the colors were code for different factory options so the assembly line would know what AMX got a certain designated coil spring. I went back and measured how much I compressed the springs and it was indeed a bit over 5". I probably compressed them a little bit more than needed because they did come out easily without a struggle. BTW, I purchased Scott's book. It is very well written and covers banding the front coil springs in detail with clarity. Highly recommend.
Edited by AMXFSTBK390 - Aug/23/2018 at 9:52pm |
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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Ohio AMX
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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The TSM lists the color codes for particular coil spring applications.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Measure the springs in the car with wheels on the ground. You only need to compress about that much, maybe 1/4" shorter. Disconnect the shock and you can push down on the lower arm a good bit more. The only issue with banding the springs are the spring seats. You won't be able to pull the bands out, they will stay under the springs in the seats. As long as the spring sits in the seat as it should that won't be a problem though, you'll have to check. If they are fiberglass reinforced plastic bands there shouldn't be a problem, steel bands might be, I'm not sure. Jack the lower arm up until it makes contact with the spring seat, or as close to it as you can, before cutting the bands. You don't want the spring to pop out of place when it decompresses. Or let the car down on the spring. I'd put a floor jack under the arm. I was about to say with the tire on to keep the spring in there should it come loose, but then you can't cut the bands! Maybe with the wheels turned to lock. Not much chance of it coming loose if the spring seats are where they need to be and suspension up against them.
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Frank Swygert
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Trader
AMC Addicted Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Personally I would never release a spring from tension unless it is definitely seated. Close is just not good enough with this much force being released.
I also like to use shim stock and wrap/band the center to prevent bowing if one side looses compression before the other. This can also cause a spring to fracture. A small step and extra effort, but if you've ever seen the force/speed they come out then you would become very cautious.
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