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installing coil springs |
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dcshay 
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Joined: Feb/19/2012 Location: new milford ct Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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 Topic: installing coil springsPosted: Aug/27/2018 at 10:26am |
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thanks turns out I have that book it was very helpful the guy at the spring shop is banding them he needs to know the final length of the springs with everything connected and ready to install I told him 11 inches is that correct ?
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Ohio AMX
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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Posted: Aug/27/2018 at 8:05am |
AMC Javelin, AMX & Muscle Car Restoration 1968-1974 by Scott Campbell. You order it from Amazon, Summit Racing or a bunch of other places.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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dcshay
AMC Apprentice
Joined: Feb/19/2012 Location: new milford ct Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: Aug/26/2018 at 7:29pm |
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what is the name of the resto book and where can I get one or a copy of that page ?
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Ohio AMX
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Posted: Aug/25/2018 at 7:31am |
You cannot include the ends of the springs when banding them for this reason, the bands must wrap around the first coil down from each end. I have installed many sets of coils using this method with no problems whatsoever. You just need to make sure everything is in the proper position before cutting the bands. |
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2018 at 10:28pm |
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i've de-collapsed compressed springs by placing them under the "frame rail", lowering the car on it, remove restraints (chains on spring hats, etc) then jacking the car. the same trick is good for compressing them if you have spring hats. i use 1/4" diam link chain and fat S hooks. you have to make sure it's square under the car and won't sproing out sideways. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6881 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2018 at 8:11am |
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Personally I would never release a spring from tension unless it is definitely seated. Close is just not good enough with this much force being released.
I also like to use shim stock and wrap/band the center to prevent bowing if one side looses compression before the other. This can also cause a spring to fracture. A small step and extra effort, but if you've ever seen the force/speed they come out then you would become very cautious.
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Aug/24/2018 at 6:44am |
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Measure the springs in the car with wheels on the ground. You only need to compress about that much, maybe 1/4" shorter. Disconnect the shock and you can push down on the lower arm a good bit more. The only issue with banding the springs are the spring seats. You won't be able to pull the bands out, they will stay under the springs in the seats. As long as the spring sits in the seat as it should that won't be a problem though, you'll have to check. If they are fiberglass reinforced plastic bands there shouldn't be a problem, steel bands might be, I'm not sure. Jack the lower arm up until it makes contact with the spring seat, or as close to it as you can, before cutting the bands. You don't want the spring to pop out of place when it decompresses. Or let the car down on the spring. I'd put a floor jack under the arm. I was about to say with the tire on to keep the spring in there should it come loose, but then you can't cut the bands! Maybe with the wheels turned to lock. Not much chance of it coming loose if the spring seats are where they need to be and suspension up against them.
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Frank Swygert
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Ohio AMX
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Posted: Aug/23/2018 at 9:52pm |
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The TSM lists the color codes for particular coil spring applications.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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AMXFSTBK390
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Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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Posted: Aug/23/2018 at 9:48pm |
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Scott's statement about only needing to compress the coil spring 4" got me to thinking. My 68 AMX came with a/c, ps, power disc brakes which could imply the springs are different depending on what options the AMX came with. After removing the undercoating from the springs I could see patches of paint on the coils: turquoise, red, and white. This may imply the colors were code for different factory options so the assembly line would know what AMX got a certain designated coil spring. I went back and measured how much I compressed the springs and it was indeed a bit over 5". I probably compressed them a little bit more than needed because they did come out easily without a struggle. BTW, I purchased Scott's book. It is very well written and covers banding the front coil springs in detail with clarity. Highly recommend.
Edited by AMXFSTBK390 - Aug/23/2018 at 9:52pm |
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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Ohio AMX
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Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: NE Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4935 |
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Posted: Aug/23/2018 at 6:29pm |
They need to be compressed about 4" or so in order for everything to fit. Then definitely use a jack under the LCA to hold them tightly in position before cutting the bands. You don't have to compress them further (probably wouldn't be able to anyway) but you don't want any chance of them popping out of place once they're freed. I show the whole process in my resto book if you can get ahold of a copy.
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1940 Hupmobile Skylark
1968 Javelin future Pro Street 1969 AMX 290/auto (first car) 1997 Dodge SS/T 5.9L AMO# 983 |
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dcshay wrote: