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hard starting when motor gets warmed up

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Mr_Roboto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr_Roboto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: hard starting when motor gets warmed up
    Posted: Jul/20/2022 at 8:25pm
Somewhat of a long shot but did you check your base timing? If it's too high it can cause a hot hard start.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/20/2022 at 11:33am
Originally posted by Rambled Rambled wrote:

I have a 67 rambler, starts great cold but when it gets hot it breaks up really bad, stumbles and dies. I can restart it but it stumbles at idle. 

What engine/tranny? I have a ’68 with 232/1BBL Holley and similar issues. Have you checked vaccuum leaks? I had a slight leak around the throttle shaft. Turned the idle speed up a quarter turn and it solved it, until I can get a better/new carb.

Good luck.
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/20/2022 at 8:46am
I have a 350 with a quadrajet that when hot it starts immediately after one compression stroke so I don't think it is common to all carbs. In fact it starts faster than my FI vehicles. The Rambler starts like that too sometimes but there are some hot start conditions that seem to trip it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rambled Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/20/2022 at 4:43am
I have a 67 rambler, starts great cold but when it gets hot it breaks up really bad, stumbles and dies. I can restart it but it stumbles at idle. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2018 at 9:38pm
RJ,
Found and fixed the problem yet?
The thread is going sideways.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/15/2018 at 11:16am
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

Originally posted by Thikstik Thikstik wrote:

Can you say what mileage you got?  I cant recall T-5's overdrive.


i got 22.7 MPG over the 6500 mile drive! i'm happy with that.  i got the close-ratio T5 from Modern Drivelines. rare for me to buy such a fancy part! totally worth it. 

5th is 0.73, axle is 3.43:1, tires are 24". i drove 65 to 75, 2300 to 2600 rpm.

Thats about as good as it gets...great combo.  I always say that my Gremmy would be such a nice long range car if it had one more gear. Of course, same is true for any 1:1 old car. Is your engine aluminum or iron?
75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258,
264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2018 at 12:10am
i generally run the cheapest gas i can find, nearly always with ethanol, and have zero troubles. all hoses are new, so no hose issues.  tank is clean, that helps. on the power tour i ran midgrade, as a sort of magic talisman to ward off pinging (probably a waste of money). not had fuel related problems in many years. compression was raised to 9:1 too. lots of spark timing.

i'm sorry to be argumentative, but all our carb cars are instant start, or two, three seconds cranking after they've sat long enough for fuel to dissipate, multiple days, (is what i assume is happening). hot start, cool start (we don't get cold here), no matter.

carbs require a lot of attention, relative to FI. and its true, as carbs wear and get old they get weird and hard to tune -- the metal wears, surface finishes degrade and emulsions and surface films on old carbs don't work as well as new carbs. sometimes rebuilts are just fine, sometimes they never work out. junk unrebuildable carbs need to be thrown out.

personally, YMMV, etc, i just gave up on old carbs, the castings themselves mysteriously deteriorate. i buy new carbs only. they last "forever" (i did sell my 4, 5 year old Weber 32/36 to buy a Weber 38/38, and i might replace it with the larger IDF 44). that's work and not appropriate for all cars.

my only point is start issues are not simply life with a carb. carbs work great, but they have to be kept in top notch shape, from tank to hose to pump to casting to spark timing.

we have a '72 Hornet with a 258 and a rebuilt Carter YF on it that's now 6? 8? 10? years old. it starts with one flap of the pedal and crank for under 1 second, on fast idle, drive off.


Edited by tomj - Aug/13/2018 at 12:13am
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2018 at 12:53pm
That is still better by 1 or 2 MPG than an 07 Volvo XC90 with an equivalent sized engine. My 64 Classic with a 232 gets about the same as the Volvo. I have a feeling that with frequent starts when hot the Rambler mileage would be worse.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/10/2018 at 12:00am
Originally posted by Thikstik Thikstik wrote:

Can you say what mileage you got?  I cant recall T-5's overdrive.


i got 22.7 MPG over the 6500 mile drive! i'm happy with that.  i got the close-ratio T5 from Modern Drivelines. rare for me to buy such a fancy part! totally worth it. 

5th is 0.73, axle is 3.43:1, tires are 24". i drove 65 to 75, 2300 to 2600 rpm.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71 Javelin AMX O.O. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2018 at 11:39am
not a hot start problem, but thought I would ask anyway to keep this tread going on carbuators..
I recently had a heater hose give way and blew antifreeze all over the engine compartment.  I cleaned up all that was visable and noticed that some antifreeze actually got into the air filter housing.  Cleaned that up.  Then I noticed that when cold started I had to give it gas to get it to idle.  No fast idle.  So I opened the choke cover and sure enough there was antifreeze inside the housing.  I cleaned everything with carb cleaner, and it started up like it did before the hose break.  I'm hoping I got the carb outside and inside cleaned up.  I'm guessing the sticky antifreeze was screwing up the linkages and choke spring. 
Anything else I should be looking for that may give me problems, in the future?  I took the PVC valve out and blew carb cleaner through that and it rattled like it's suppose.  Cleaned out the carb vacumn lines, too.
Steve
1971 Javelin AMX
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