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In line tubes...??? |
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BrotherBamc 
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Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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 Topic: In line tubes...???Posted: May/22/2018 at 9:28am |
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Needless to say I am very disappointed in fine line tubes... I contacted Scott and asked whom I could contact there to see about having some Hornet lines made. I was under the assumption that everything that they make, or have made in the past would be on a computer or somewhere. Scott said to contact Rick in sales. I sent him an email last night and this was the response that I received... WOW...!!! Really...?!?!?! Guess I will make my own... Thanks everyone for the great tips...!!! Hi William,
The only lines I have available are listed for the 1971-74 Javelin/AMX. I could not tell you if those will work on your set up or not.
Thanks,
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one bad rambler
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Joined: Jan/09/2008 Location: On The Island Status: Offline Points: 2007 |
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Posted: May/20/2018 at 9:14pm |
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I switched over to Nicopp...nickel copper lines and will never go back...Pre bent lines...Never waste of money
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 68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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amcfool1
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Joined: Jun/18/2011 Location: roanoke va Status: Offline Points: 1075 |
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Posted: May/19/2018 at 11:38am |
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Hi, x2 on the copper/nickel lines, last year redid my 84 Eagle, all four lines with that, not cheap, but definitely worth it. Eagle uses 3/16, main brake/tank vent, 1/4", fuel return, and 5/!6", main fuel. good luck, gz
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george z
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BrotherBamc
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 6:50pm |
LOL...!!! Those are "street fighting" words...!!! I used to whoop on some small blocks, (and others) back in the day with my 258 with only "half" a car.. And no.. it doesn't age you.. not unless you are wine or cheese...
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 5:38pm |
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"Hey, Lady, where's the rest of your car hahahahaha" ;-) I guess that ages me, eh?
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BrotherBamc
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 3:21pm |
I imagine that Early Hornet would be spot on or very close. Except for wheelbase length. That's what I was referring to and thinking why early AMX 2 seater would be close. There is only an inch difference between the Gremlin and AMX. Thank you..
Edited by BrotherBamc - May/18/2018 at 3:45pm |
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BrotherBamc
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 3:11pm |
Good points Bill... I may end up going that way. I still have my old lines so I could probably easily reproduce them with the copper/nickel. I will definitely look into it.. Thank you...
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401MATCOUPE
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Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 3:05pm |
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Small body lines are completely different for 73 with disc and front proportioning valve then any 2 seater AMX......contact Scott Campbell, he used to work there and I think he had lines made for his 71 SC-360, they maybe close or even right on.
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 12:47pm |
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Use the copper/nickel line - it's EASY to work with, easier to double-flare, and you can bend it a time or two before it work hardens like anything with copper always does. I bought a 50' roll and did my 73 Javelin.
Cars vary a bit with placement of parts, brackets, hoses, valves and so on - so "maybe" you could find something close but then if you had to rebend or re-flare, well.......... is it worth making something fit that isn't quite right and spending all that time trying to bend steel lines? When I did my 70 I bought the rear lines supposedly ready to go - and ended up fighting them to make them fit and seal. the copper/nickel lines are not only easier to work with, they will not rust, either.
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acm
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Joined: Jun/26/2011 Location: San Antonio Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: May/18/2018 at 11:31am |
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I just installed Inline Tubes brake kit & 3/8" fuel line...The bends are generally OK but expect to spend a lot of time tweaking the lines to fit correctly.
Biggest issue I had was the 2 lies that go over the trans tunnel to the prop valve. There was an extra bend in 1 line (looks like the line slipped on die during bending) that needed to be straightened out. Probably, quicker than starting from scratch, but not by much. |
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billd wrote: