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73 Javelin heater connections |
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CHAR 
AMC Nut 
Joined: Feb/22/2019 Location: NW Florida Status: Offline Points: 354 |
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 Topic: 73 Javelin heater connectionsPosted: Mar/18/2019 at 4:52pm |
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Did you ever get your heater assembly sorted out? Im disassembling my 72 A/C Javelin interiors right now do fix the WeatherEye cables and the jacked up wiring the PO installed for his ghetto stereo, and I have the same gap between the heater box and the cowl. Almost an inch, and the box is still tight against its mount points. There is evidence of a foam gasket that has long since disintegrated, and the heater box on my Boss 302 was the same. it had a thick, 1" tall loop gasket that when around the perimeter of the box where it met the cowl and fresh air came right over and thru the core.
Ive yet to get into the vacuum system, but there is a line from a intake manifold fitting, thru the firewall close the the speedo and into the cab to a tree that services the main air flap that lets air up into the upper dash duct work while the A/C is on. It also looks to feed(suck) the heater valve. I want to see about getting it all working again or ditch it and switch it all to manual cables, but aside from parts, it looks simple enough. |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Apr/19/2018 at 8:58pm |
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Yup - very helpful.
I got the heater core installed in the box, foam insulation adhered in spots I thought it belonged and the heater box in the car. I actually installed the bolt in the far right end - the bracket that went to the body. When I pulled tings apart originally there was no bolt or screw there, not sure there ever was one, but it needs it as otherwise the box hung so far down below the cowl area there was a huge gap. Now with some foam there and the box pushed up and a screw put into that bracket to the car, it sits up higher and the foam for the most part closes off that gap between heater box and the air intake area.
It was a mess inside - pine needles, dirt, yuk. |
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Mopar_guy
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Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4826 |
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Posted: Apr/19/2018 at 8:23pm |
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The defroster cable that moves when you move the lever to defrost has a slotted end at the heater box end and is about 18.5" long. The other 2 cables on that lever both have round wire ends. The one on the left is about 20.5" and the one on the right is 18.5" long. Hope that helps.
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billd
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 8:55pm |
So it was supposed to be like a "seal" between firewall and heater box?\ You saw mine? there's no way it could be all the way around the opening - I must have some missing. Great........ now something more to find or figure out!!! Was it a molded hose between rear of intake and the heater core? That would be a sharp bend for the short hose from manifold fitting to heater core unless the hose had a molded 90 degree bend near the core end. |
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billd
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 8:50pm |
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The control head in my car works - but of course the black with lettering is wrinkled with age. I have another in a center section (no cables) but it's worse - the black has pulled away from the lever area and shows brown there.
My biggest thing now is lack of the defrost cable. I have a number of cables from various AMCs so could possibly make one if I knew the length, etc. On the other hand - spares are always good and if your control is better than mine........... I lost a bloody clip when I got stupid and wasn't careful and it went flying out the door and across the sho somewhere. I'll probably find it in a year or two. The bit with the insulation is that some of it was between heater box and firewall, and in some spots not. It appears as if it was meant to be CLEAR of the openings, not sticking into the openings. In other words, it would seem to me that the heater box mounted not on the insulation, but with the insulation around it. I bet the PO had that out, let the insulation sag so it was in the way and just bolted the heater box on top of it instead of pushing it out of the way again.. |
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Fluffy73
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Joined: Nov/21/2007 Location: Castlegar, BC Status: Offline Points: 3059 |
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 8:17pm |
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If your car is an original Non-A/C car, then there is no heater valve. It runs full flow coolant through the heater core at all times.
And yes, the insulation goes between the firewall and the heater box. |
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I am genetically incapable of being Politically Correct.
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Mopar_guy
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 7:31pm |
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I have an extra control head and cables from my car if you're interested. I put Vintage Air in so I don't need it anymore.
There was some factory insulation on the firewall before the heater box was installed. If I remember right, there's not much holding it in. I removed all of it and replaced with with something better to keep engine heat out and keep it quieter inside. |
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billd
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 6:32pm |
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nonono - pit crew you aren't done yet!! LOL - more technical questions that apply to EITHER AC or non-AC cars ;-)
Honestly, your help and info is always appreciated. AND, now that the valve bit is likely decided, the rest will apply to either ac or non-ac cars. OK with the "heater box" out,, I found the PO had been into this stuff before. There's a bracket on the far right end that I could see if the whole thing was lifted up a half inch on the right end it would bolt to the right side of the car itself. There were only a couple of screws holding the whole thing in.....and there was THICK FOAM and I mean THICK on the right end top between the heater core box area and the piece above it. Geesh,, if he had lifted that end up so that far right bolt could go in he could have cut the foam in half... But here's my REAL question - and I "THINK" I know, and it's sort of a stupid question, but looking at these pictures - am I correct in that the PO put the heater box against that padding and it should not have been?? Shouldn't that "padding" or insulated matting be AROUND the box and not between the box and the firewall? Please see the areas I have marked in red - you ca see he had it screwed to the firewall with this stuff between the firewall and heater box,, but that just doesn't seem right especially since that was only in spots,, and not all the way around (my keyboard is going south and missing some letters, doubling up on others) Also - I couldn't stand the rusty painted water outlet so nickel plated it.......... Anyway, whoever can comment - that stuff shouldn't be between the heater box and firewall, is that correct?   You can see where this slipped down and the PO bolted the heater box up against it - doesn't see right to have that in some spots and not others - that may be why it smelled like engine in the car.  Well, it won't rust bad or quickly now - and it really doesn't take THAT much more than powder coating or painting and letting it dry a few hours before using it..........  |
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pit crew
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 6:05pm |
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 73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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billd
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Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 5:52pm |
Ya know, I came to that conclusion myself, today............ the TSM not only says nothing about a valve, but there's NO PLACE to mount a vacuum switch anywhere - plus, look at the parts books, or even online "for cars with AC", etc. I got crazy and decided that since the cluster was out, so many things were broken, missing, and needed fixed, and, since it's SOOOO easy to remove the dash parts on these cars (again, i'd do five of these over ONE Eagle), anyway, the heater box is out, the old core is out, and I found MORE trouble. First the PO removed the defrost "valve" control cable. I was going over the TSM over and over and over and was wondering how do they do this with two cables, and the heat lever doing nothing when moved from heat to defrost - nothing moved or changed. Then I looked at a center section I got for parts a while back, it still had the heater control panel in it, and I found there were patterns in the dust where there had been a THIRD cable - a cable my car lacks. I have the temp control or air blend cable and that worked, then there was another shorter cable and that worked, but where the TSM said there was a defrost door - there was nothing. Well, the door was there but no cable. So I am missing a cable to operate the defrost portion. Bloody heck - I had bought a right side air vent cable from Eddie a year or so ago and can't find it either - my cable that was tucked up under the dash was broken.... I bet I find it some day (I hope) with the NOS tach I can't find!! Anyway, I have come to the conclusion that no one could find the vacuum or valve info on these cars because it never existed! So what do I need for a defrost cable?? What did it look like, how long and what sort of ends? A loop on one end and the offset on the other for the lever?? How long was it? Thanks for confirming what I was finding out this afternoon, mopar_guy...........
The valve is needed for AC cars because the air flows through the same areas for AC as it does heat - so they had to shut the coolant off on those cars, but stopped only the air flow on non-AC cars. Makes sense. (and was cheaper!!) |
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Fluffy73 wrote: