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Wheels/Rims 17x8

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AMXFSTBK390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2018 at 11:00pm
Never had a problem buying 15" tires: Tiger Paw, Cooper, General Tire, Continental . All four brands are "H" rated = 130 mph. All mentioned come in popular sizes example: 225 x 60 x 15. If your local tire store doesn't have them Summit Racing has them. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 12:38pm
The overall height of the tire and wheel is important as well as width. The original E70x14 tires had a height of 25.25". The car's suspension and steering characteristics (68-69 AMX) were designed assuming this height. Going to a radically different height will affect the center of gravity (as Bill explains), particularly a much taller height. I want to go with 15" wheels and the closest I have come to the original height is a 215x60x15 tire, so that is what I will probably go with. Lots of tire options at that size that are more affordable than T/A's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote einbier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 4:23pm
195/70R14 tires have a diameter of 24.7", a section width of 7.7", and a wheel diameter of 14". The circumference is 77.7" and the revolutions per mile are 815. Sidewall 5.4"

215/45R17 tires have a diameter of 24.6", a section width of 8.5", and a wheel diameter of 17". The circumference is 77.3" and the revolutions per mile are 820. Sidewall 3.8


Couple of comparisons there is not much difference between these 2 tires except side wall height and a bit of width. Some call them rubber-band tires. I think there is plenty of meat left as to not damage rim.
I think they handle better and don't sway/flex as much. And by no means am I an expert this is just a personal choice. 
1970 Javelin Mark Donohue
1970 Hornet Shirley Shahan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by einbier einbier wrote:

<span style="color: rgb34, 34, 34; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; text-align: center; : rgb208, 208, 208;">195/70R14 tires have a diameter of 24.7", a section width of 7.7", and a wheel diameter of 14". The circumference is 77.7" and the revolutions per mile are 815. Sidewall 5.4"</span>
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style=": rgb208, 208, 208; color: rgb34, 34, 34; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;">
</span>
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style=": rgb208, 208, 208; color: rgb34, 34, 34; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;">215/45R17 tires have a diameter of 24.6", a section width of 8.5", and a wheel diameter of 17". The circumference is 77.3" and the revolutions per mile are 820. Sidewall 3.8</span><div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: left;">Couple of comparisons there is not much difference between these 2 tires except side wall height and a bit of width. Some call them rubber-band tires. I think there is plenty of meat left as to not damage rim.<div style="text-align: left;">I think they handle better and don't sway/flex as much. And by no means am I an expert this is just a personal choice. 


Yep, 17" rims and tires are more forgiving than one would expect. I started back in 2004/05 to go with 17" rims, with little in negative thinking.

If some are so use to 78 sized 14 or 15 inch tires, just looking at a nice 17" tire setup can be more visual in thinking so negatively. I would think more would be skewed on corded vs radials as tire dynamics are easier seen on older cars, when looking at road stability and feel. Yet most complain about something that may have less significance, unless they have been running on corded tires only on their older cars.

We all know a wee increase in caster and proper back spacing is probably the biggest issue when selecting a wheel upgrade. Most rely on what is speced available for our cars, expecting proper fit for the clearance and alignment needs. I donno, but it seems more younger gens are just going by looks, and how well they can tuck the tire right under the lip of the wheel arch. Not even caring how much it may effect their steering.

Example if a wheel is only 10mm difference on offset, it will not be in the list of proper fit on a particular car make or model. Though it may fit, just who ever is doing it, just don't care, as usually such a difference in offset may not effect normal operation. They may even get away with pushing it on the track.

The way I look at it tolérances have become narrower and narrower with modern tech, over our older designed cars. Our ball joints have a loose spec over modern designs, even some by other US makes back in he late 60s on up. Not by materials used, just AMC specified a wider tolerance in manufacturing. Not saying the suspension is sloppy, just a bit more forgiving than being set to specific range of standards. So 10 to 15% variation may have no big change until you start pushing design capabilities. 8" width is not that terrible on the suspension and steering, and can be ran. If anything with improper offset, you will end up wearing the wheel bearing
S prematurely and maybe some outer tire tread if driving harshly.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hffej Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/18/2018 at 6:27pm
Maybe another way to look at this is to look at revolutions per mile instead of just the tire diameter. What I did is to go up from the 14” rims on my 69 Javelin to 15x7 Wheel Vintiques Magnum 500’s. The back spacing is 4.25” (same as the Machine wheel?) and works great. The original specs of the E70-14 Goodyear’s is 25.92” height and the revolutions per mile are 778. I went with the BF Goodrich T/A’s, size P235/60R15, on the rear (P225/60R15 on the fronts with the stock wheel spacers). Their height is 26.1” and 797 revolutions per mile. Very close to the originals and it helps to keep the speedometer accuarate. Going up to 17’s should not be a big deal. It’s not a 3 inch side wall change but an 1.5 inch change, slightly harder ride with a slight improvement in the handling. If I could have found 17X7 Magnum 500’s at the time I would of considered them.
69 BBB AMX   69 BBO Javelin

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