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Hornet Engine Install Tips
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billd View Drop Down
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Points: 30894 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hornet Engine Install Tips
    Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 7:47pm
Do it from below.
I put the entire engine, transmission and transfer case, with exhaust, etc. into my car with one arm tied behind my back.
OK, it wasn't tied behind my back - it was in a sling in front of me. I am very left-handed. My left bicep had been surgically reattached a few days before I put the engine back into my car. 
So I literally did this without full use of both arms. I used my gantry crane with chain hoist, and a home-made dolly and transmission jack. I got the engine into position, lowered the car back onto stands and then used the chain hoist to pull the engine up so the cross-member bolts could be put back in and used the transmission jack to raise the rear and put the bolts in that cross member. Done.


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Originally posted by Red20 Red20 wrote:

I’ve read some other threads and talked to some experienced AMC guys, but I thought I’d put this thread out there as I prepare to install my 360 into the 1973 AMC Hornet Sportabout X I picked up the other day. Fitment-wise, it has Patriot Clippster shorty headers and tall aluminum valve covers going into a PB, PS, V8 car.

Here’s some anecdotal info I have so far:

-Start it canted a little to the passenger side and swing it straight as you lower it.
-Loosen the transmission crossmember bolts most of the way to lower the rear of the transmission
-Jack up the front of the transmission and tilt engine rearward then slowly advance them together until dowel pins slide in.
-Put engine mount pads in crossmember first with nuts just started and bolt to engine once it’s in place using a punch or screwdriver to center mounts to engine threaded holes.
-Use a mini starter.
-Get drunk and do it at 2AM.

I fully understand the last one. Kidding... Any value to the others?

I think it going to be difficult from the top with the headers on...I just did the Concord from the bottom with the l/side header on and drive acc. on....I think i could have put the r/side header on i didn`t want to take the chance of scratching anything...
68 AMX 390 4 Speed,68 American,64 American 2 Door Wagon Altered Wheelbase,78 Concord Build 360,727,8.8
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Points: 1556 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 5:53pm
Originally posted by tached_out tached_out wrote:

I've used every method and haven't really had more or less problems with any of them. 

The key I think, is the support equipment (I built my own crane) and help you have or don't have. I prefer to work alone.

My preferred method is as pictured. Six cylinders are a little tougher due to their obvious length. I stuff it in until the trans is in an low enough that the crossmember can be loosely bolted on. Then you just raise the back of the trans as you lower the engine into it's mounts. It helps if the front wheels are on the ground and the rear is supported well up on axle stands.

In the below installation neither the engine or trans touched the body.



I also prefer to work alone, and that’s exactly how I’ve done it many times in and out of the Javelin. The key is definitely raising the rear of the car. I was under the impression I wouldn’t be able to squeeze the engine and transmission in together though in a Hornet. Although I’m looking at a picture of you doing just that with a straight 6.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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Points: 328 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tached_out Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 4:35pm
I've used every method and haven't really had more or less problems with any of them. 

The key I think, is the support equipment (I built my own crane) and help you have or don't have. I prefer to work alone.

My preferred method is as pictured. Six cylinders are a little tougher due to their obvious length. I stuff it in until the trans is in an low enough that the crossmember can be loosely bolted on. Then you just raise the back of the trans as you lower the engine into it's mounts. It helps if the front wheels are on the ground and the rear is supported well up on axle stands.

In the below installation neither the engine or trans touched the body.
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Points: 1556 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 2:54pm
I will be getting rid of the lovely Eaton PS pump for a Saginaw unit. I’m tired of it spraying my engine bay at high RPMs.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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Points: 1556 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 2:51pm
Here she is waiting for transplant surgery.



Not this weekend, but next. Anyone in SoCal wanna come over and turn some wrenches?
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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Points: 1556 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 2:30pm
I really appreciate all of the thoughts here. If anything, it encourages me. I’ve had easy breezy installs and nightmare installs. And I always went into them thinking they would be opposite of what they actual ended up being.
1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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Points: 261 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobsterfl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 2:15pm
We did this a while back on my friends Hornet and the engine is a VERY tight fit in the Hornet/Gremlin bodies.  It is so tight that on '70 models, you could not remove replace the heater control valve. The TSM had instructions on how to hacksaw part of it off and reuse it with either pop rivets or sheet metal screws (can't remember exactly).

We did the motormount trick described by Red20 and that helped a lot.  Best option is to install the engine first and then get the car high enough to get the trans in from underneath. Bolt it up to the engine and then raise the back end up to install the crossmember.

Of course installing everything from the bottom is the factory method (Chrysler did the same thing) but that's a lot of effort unless you are restoring the car from the ground up.

Just IMO.

Bobster
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Points: 232 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73LevisX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 1:04pm
X2 on the install from underneath.

We got creative with a "fixture"... LOL
'73 Hornet X
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Points: 1556 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red20 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by pit crew pit crew wrote:


Don't know about your location, tools, time, and so forth but the best method we have found is remove out the bottom and install from the bottom. Just like the factory. That my not be practical in your case but I thought I would throw that out there.

 

If I can figure out a cradle/fixture for the engine, I may give that a shot. If anything it’ll be a good experience doing something different.

1969 Javelin SST "Screamin' Banana" - Totaled Feb 2018
1973 Hornet Sportabout X "yellajack" - 360/727/TracLoc DAILY DRIVER
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