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What 10w-30 do you use?

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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 10:08am
No ranting, just reading unbiased articles.
You are absolutely correct in picking a high psi rated oil over ZDDP content alone.
Absolutely correct about aftermarket addatives.
Have a read and your thoughts of SN afterwards for your 360 or in this I6 section a high lift cam on a 258:
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf 
This may or may not change your mind but it's an interesting read, at least for people like me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 11:30pm
fyi, i use the kind of 10W-30 that's Valvoline VR1, 20W-50. recommended by the engine builder, who set very particular clearances. i neglected to get the exact number, but he'd earlier said he uses .001" per 1" of journal diam (nothing unusual). iVR1 has got ZDDP. i've never had a problem with engines using the best quality chemicals i can find. i'm a cheapskate but this isn't a place i save money.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2018 at 6:09pm
Blue jugs from Walmart.
Content intended for mature audiences. If you experience nausea or diarrhea, stop reading and seek medical attention.

Located usually near Rochester, NY and sometimes central FL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2018 at 6:13pm
No oil is worth anything if you don't change it. Seen engines get messed up simply because the oil w asnt changed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2018 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by tomj tomj wrote:

fyi, i use the kind of 10W-30 that's Valvoline VR1, 20W-50. recommended by the engine builder, who set very particular clearances. i neglected to get the exact number, but he'd earlier said he uses .001" per 1" of journal diam (nothing unusual). iVR1 has got ZDDP. i've never had a problem with engines using the best quality chemicals i can find. i'm a cheapskate but this isn't a place i save money.


Agreed, Same here (20w-50) but Brad Penn 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote one bad rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/14/2018 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by Gelalthedamned Gelalthedamned wrote:

I had a new oil change of royal purple when I blew up my 258...so I’m a bit skittish of that now.
I have some rotella t5 on the shelf..it says it’s for diesel motors...but uhmn does that really matter?

What do you use? Got valid reasons for that?
I used to run Rotella ....Yes it is diesel oil and yes there could be a difference...I agree that not all oil`s are equal and there are hundreds of threads out there but i will say this Rotella is good for low rpm engines just like it was designed but will start to foam at high rpms...It was brought to my attention years ago by a friend in Florida that races Bugs...so we tested it here on the dyno and he was right....street car fine performance i will go with what we tested and say no
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/15/2018 at 2:22pm
Farna's advice from a petroleum engineer is very good.

My oil:

Quaker State Defy high mileage 10W30. It's a high ZDDP, low detergent synthetic blend that is not expensive. It isn't super high ZDDP (1000 PPM Zn, 800 PPM P), but it is more than standard API SN and plenty to protect all but the most radical camshafts and springs. It has fewer detergents than standard API SN to help that ZDDP do its job and to not over-clean older engines that have sludge and varnish buildup holding the gaskets together to prevent leaks. Still plenty of detergent to keep the engine clean given proper oil changes. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote purple72Gremlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 11:08am
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Here we go again - geesh.
Adding stuff to your oil can be a BAD idea. The actual protection is added DURING the oil processing - and adding it later can actually REDUCE the protection the oil gives. That's been PROVEN.
It's NOT NOT NOT the zinc. Zinc doesn't add protection, the phosphorus n ZDDP is what does it.
You do not need additives if you use a decent oil.
The needing to add "Zinc" is one of those urban legends that just to this day seems to keep growing and has a life of its own.
If extra stuff was needed then thousands of engine rebuilds done by shops and people like me would e failing day after day. 
It's not needed. Choose a decent oil and use it and skip the bloody additives. 
I have a 280H in my 360, a Comp X-treme in my 4.0 and in my 390 and I use straight oil with no additives - and the same for many other people I know.

Why did they move to roller lifters?
Simple- if anyone thinks about it - because the Japanese did - and because it was necessary to squeeze more miles out of engines and still meet emissions.
Think about it - competition to extend warranties, the requirements to meed MPG rules, reliability competition when the foreign companies came in and said "we warrant our engines for 100,000 miles" and a few more reasons I could think of. Technology, warranties, competition and so on. It was not because of the reduction of "zinc" in the oil.
Roller lifters have been around for a very very long time - not just since the EPA stepped in. 
Foreign car makers were doing such things before we were because fuel cost a week's wages over there, small cars and engines winding up to 10,000 RPM to get the SAME HP as American made engines - think a bit. Honda was kicking our HP butts with engines half the size winding up crazy RPM and it all requires less friction and more efficient engines. That made for light cars that got good MPG and lasted a long time. We finally caught up.......... but not because of oil changes.
No one wants to believe engineers, they believe AMSOIL and others who SELL these crazy additive products and make a mint on them. They believe the fellow who builds a car in his garage and loses a cam and blames the oil and then puts in a new cam, adds ZDDP and doesn't lose a cam. Anyone stop o think the guy lost a cam the first time because of HIS mistakes?? No,, blame the oil.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-tech-performance/3656635-engineering-test-data-on-high-mileage-motor-oils.html

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

Not that anyone will believe me as I'm the idiot that just comes in here to rant. Well there's a reason - no one will believe science, they prefer to believe cousin Bubba or stuff they hear about a cam failure.
Been at this for about 45 years and have never lost a cam or lifters - but then I pay attention to important details.

Interesting to some may be the fact that by ADDING crap to their oil they may be REDUCING protection.
Remember, these things are often best added when the oil is made or blended - to add them later can cause you MORE wear, not less. And there's no good way to prove it unless you do the engineering testing, losing an engine or not losing an engine is proof of nothing.

I could post a couple of other great links but why waste my time - someone will just flame me for dissing their beloved additives anyway. 

Bottom line - use a good quality, name brand oil and filter, change as recommended and take care of your engine and it will do what mine usually do - go over 100,000 miles without major trouble. 
It truly is that simple.
I never did worry about zinc. The article you put on here was very informative. I don't pretend to be an engineer, because I'm not. I've never had an engine give me much trouble, but one thing, if you don't change the oil, then you will have problems. And these newer engines will bite you if you let them sludge up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 3:13pm
After carefully reading this and all the other oil-related threads on this site and the rest of the internet, I've made major changes to my oil system. 

Behind my rear seat, I've mounted a 55-gallon drum of a mixture of new oil composed of 1 quart from all available retail brands, plumbed directly to the oil pump pickup through an assembly of filters from each major filter brand.  Then, as oil returns to the sump, I have a pump which returns it to a second, 55 gallon drum, mounted on a roof rack, which contains only waste oil.  When I get through about 3/4 the barrel of fresh oil, a light comes on, warning me I need to top off, and I head home to pump in more oil from my pre-mixed underground storage tank.  At that time, I also offload the waste oil for recycling in various ways.

Sure, it's a little time consuming, but it's worth it not have to worry about what kind of oil I'm using any more...
76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pdok Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 3:15pm
Note: the preceding post was intended to be humorous, and is not an endorsement of the method described, nor of any specific manufacturer's product, or of any type of oil, viscous liquid, or other compound with lubricating properties.
76 Grem X 258/904,4.0 head/MPFI, Comp X250H cam, Hughes springs, Clifford header, serpentine swap.
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