73 Javelin brake and suspension project

Thanks. Apparently this has a large sway bar - I went to town AGAIN today for more parts and asked the about the sway bar bushings - and had taken one from that car with me. 
They didn't have anything with a hole that large and I don't mean worn out as it was snug on the bar so it must be the larger bar. 
I guess I have to actually measure the sway bar tomorrow and order the right bushings. 
The ones on the car aren't totally trashed - they should be changed but oddly enough aren't eaten up by the oil the car has leaked in the past like some of the other bushings. They seem pretty solid yet, actually.

billd wrote: I'm wondering if I should run the master cylinder with these until I get one for disks - the master cylinder was replaced only weeks before the car went up on stands a year ago - it's brand new. It's a drum brake master - so unless there's a bore difference, the only real difference would be the need to remove the residual check valve for the front circuit and to make really sure I kept watch on fluid since disk brake calipers hold a lot more fluid and take in more as the pads wear than drum brakes ever would. If the bore is the same then the forces would be the same, just a capacity difference. Keeping it full should work until I decide to get a new one. Hate to waste a brand new master cylinder.  I guess I'll look up bore size perhaps from the Rockauto site......

I'm still running a drum brake master on mine 4 years after going to 4 wheel disc. As much as I drive it, I still haven't had to add fluid due to pad wear. IMO, use that new master you already have.

You are all correct - you have validated my findings in that they all used 1" bore master.

Frank I couldn't agree more. I will likely end up using poly for the sway bar bushings - like you say there's no road vibrations etc. transmitted there, and the rubber on the links absorb anything coming from the lower control arms.

Your comment on the boosters reminds me of when I was in college for a few weeks I car-pooled with a neighbor girl who lived about two blocks from my parents and was going to the same school. When it was her turn to drive she had me drive her car- a Chrysler product (can't recall the exact model now but a 70s car) and I hated the power steering feel and the power brakes. NO road feel on either and talk about hair triggers...... ugh. I would have preferred MANUAL, no boost, no power, to the feel of the steering and brakes of her car. 

More work on the car today I HOPE.........

Here are the bolts I de-rusted and cleaned up and plated - they hold the bracket that holds the lower control arm bumper bracket to the frame. They were totally rust before.
Also the left strut rod - I refinished the nuts and large concave washers (or convex, depending on your point of view - I guess they are DISHED washers from either side!!)
I also plated the threaded area to slow rust and make alignment easier.

Been into many discussions and studies on that topic and the sort of plating I'm doing has no risks, the parts aren't subjected to the sort of acids involved - and frankly, even the professionals where I get the supplies say it's "more talk than problem".
Somehow it got applied to all plating, all acids, any length of times and so on instead of where the real/only problems are.
In other words, the info was grabbed from the web and took on a life of its own over time. The circumstances where it's a problem aren't present in my cases. In fact, in most cases of modern plating. (I know of no one baking plated parts.)
A number of professional plating areas have debunked the need for this sort of plating and on the parts being done.   
A pH in the ranges I'm working with aren't an issue - and the zinc is applied so quickly the substrate below isn't exposed to the MILD acid for more than a split second.
Ammonium chloride, potassium chloride, zinc chloride......... pH roughly 5.3 to 5.6